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Chinchen
climber
Living on the road
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 15, 2009 - 11:53am PT
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We are in Durango trying to make a go of life here. Things are well, applying for work right and left and meeting great people. We went up to a place called Lemon Reservoir to camp and climb last week. Cool quartz rock of some kind on both sides of a picture perfect mountain creek. I found a little 3 bolt 5.7 to set up for the kids, tied my son Kaleb and the Cinch to a rock and set it up....
After three runs on it my daughter who is 8 tells me she wants to lead it...I had mentioned earlier that if either wanted to try leading that this might be a good climb.
I spent some time showing her how to clip and let her practice that and explained other important points. Then off she went. I was nervous of course but the climb was almost vertical and safe for a fall.
Anika just placed 11th in the Teva games and has grown in confidence through that experience and is showing real talent. She fell once right above the second bolt, she wouldn't say so but Im sure the sharp end rattled her a bit. The climb went just left of the bolt there and her feet caught the rope spinning her around. She got a few small scrapes on her back and broke into tears from the sudden fall.I went ahead to lower her and she yelled at me NO! Im gonna do it!....
Damn!
She proceeded to send the rest of the climb even with a lengthy struggle trying to clip the last bolt. I'm down below paying out and reeling in as she misses the clip 4 or 5 times....sweating bullets..
Anika pulled it off with style and grace as she does on everything she climbs.
Am I proud? Hell yea!
Did I learn something? She will wear a helmet on lead from now on...
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jun 15, 2009 - 11:58am PT
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Awesome! Just went thru this with my daughter last year, and two of her friends also. They all led their first sport climb on a trip to Red Rocks and were so proud of themselves. It is a great thing for a kids self confidence and made me feel pretty good as well. Cool you got the photos. I did also, now if I just knew how to post them....
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 15, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
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Way to go! A big step for both of you.
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Jun 15, 2009 - 04:15pm PT
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I was nervous of course but the climb was almost vertical and safe for a fall.
...
She got a few small scrapes on her back and broke into tears from the sudden fall.
Safe compared to what? Sounds like there was an injury involved.
I'm down below paying out and reeling in as she misses the clip 4 or 5 times....sweating bullets..
Sweating bullets? Why? It was safe, after all.
Did I learn something?
Hope so. But it does not sound like you learned enough. Maybe by posting this you will. But in all likelihood you are just looking for confirmation that your choice was good, which you will mostly get on this forum, I predict. The fact that she was not seriously injured this time and your peers will convince you that a bad choice was good.
The kid is 8 years old. Society expects you to exercise adult judgment enough to make up for your child's lack of good judgment. Some times you are supposed to simply say, "No. You are not old enough yet."
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Jun 15, 2009 - 04:18pm PT
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Don't pay any attention to "Mr. Piss On Your Fire", Jason -
Proud! Tough girl to keep going after the fall!
Erik
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 15, 2009 - 04:25pm PT
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Chinchen, thanks. That is what it is all about. Without times like you showed us here, there is no point in perpetuating this at all!
Trad is good, you will delete if you have any grace, at all.
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jean
Trad climber
Cardiff-by-the-Sea
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Jun 15, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
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Congrats to your daughter! A shiny new helmet would be a great congratulations gift. :)
A helmet when leading is always a good idea. As you saw, it's super easy to get the rope in the wrong place and flip if you fall.
My parents always encouraged us to do what we loved - and we tended to love the "less-safe" fun, like sprint car racing, skiing, ski racing, snowboarding, climbing... All my Mom ever asked was that we wore a helmet (fire suit, neck restraints - whatever the sport needed).
Encourage her (and be safe)!
-jean
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
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Jun 15, 2009 - 04:34pm PT
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Congrats to Anika!
Welcome to Durango!
Ignore the detractors.
Cheers,
Brad
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Chinchen
climber
Living on the road
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2009 - 04:38pm PT
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Thanks guys, and its a good thing I didn't need any confirmation.....because that means I didn't need a lecture either.
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the Fet
Supercaliyosemistic climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jun 15, 2009 - 04:43pm PT
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Impressive.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jun 15, 2009 - 04:43pm PT
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Chinchen,
Very cool, looks like fun. Do not worry about Trailisbad, he jumped all over my ass when I posted about my daughters first lead.
Cheers
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Jun 15, 2009 - 04:47pm PT
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Fearless at that age!
Congrats,
Thor
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Chinchen
climber
Living on the road
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2009 - 04:50pm PT
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Cool pic!
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Jun 15, 2009 - 04:50pm PT
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Chinchen, cool! She's really lucky to have such a great dad. Proud send.
TIG, WTF?
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Jim E
climber
away
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Jun 15, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
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Awesome! Congrats, Anika!
My daughter, also 8, is looking to maybe do her first lead next week. We're going on our first family climbing trip and she's pretty stoked about the whole thing. Me too for that matter.
edit: Please put a helmet on her.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Jun 15, 2009 - 04:57pm PT
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So awesome man! I'm really looking forward to that day with my own daughter. Please stick a bucket on that kid, tia.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jun 15, 2009 - 05:05pm PT
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Congrats on her first lead.
I'm guessing that 'safety first' sentiment is whay Raj can't serve in Iraq despite he and Dad being rabid proponents of that war.
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Jun 15, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
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Eight years old? Are you kidding me???? I've been climbing as long as she's been alive and 5.7s can still grab my attention. Whoof! Good on her!
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hooblie
climber
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Jun 15, 2009 - 05:21pm PT
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boy, ya i'd be nervous. but i'd be even nervouser about bicycles and traffic. that's such a common rite of passage it is hardly noteworthy.
i'm not a naysayer. passing the torch of resposibilty in many small steps is good because before long they'll snatch it away anyways. if they've had some sobering experiences by then...well, hey. we're all trying to load our fun plates without making a mess. it's good she knows that making the clip can be a challenge.
loved the story, glad i wasn't there. but then,release of tension equals joy. so, tell her hooblie says HOORAY!
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Gene
climber
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Jun 15, 2009 - 05:29pm PT
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Look at how she climbs! Great body position. After three top rope runs, she was ready to lead, especially if it was her idea. Way to go, young lady.
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