Regular Northwest Face, Half Dome 5.12 or 5.9 C1

  
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

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5 star: 77%  (33)
4 star: 16%  (7)
3 star: 2%  (1)
2 star: 2%  (1)
1 star: 2%  (1)
MX

Trad climber
Bellevue, WA
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    Apr 18, 2019 - 08:57pm

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4i00s2aur2copbo/AADbR10JoSWX80gpFMUW7BlWa?dl=0


Regular NW Face of Half Dome climbers. Please find this detailed route beta from a one-day ascent in 2012. Some info may be dated, but for the most part it should be very accurate. If you have trouble with this link, email markkroese@gmail.com and I'll send you the Word file.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 5, 2018 - 03:44pm
 
I remember using a talon for 1 move and a purple C3 was pretty crucial as well. The rest was easy.
kevinh

Trad climber
Fall City
Oct 3, 2018 - 09:37pm
 
Headed to hd next week for the first time. Was planning on hiking in water as it sounds like the spring will be dry but can anyone confirm or deny?
Are people bringing a beak for the new shenanigans?
I've read very different things about the bolt ladder pitch above thank god ledge. Hook move, no hook move, tape two nut tools together... We will have a grappling hook. I'm 5'6", should I bring something longer than 2 nut tools? How hard would it be to figure this pitch out by headlamp?
Cheers
Kh
bricepollock

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Sep 20, 2017 - 10:40am
 
Topped out on Sept 18 after two days. Hauling was audacious with the bag catching on a ledge / lip / roof every pitch, often multiple times and often requiring lower outs of the bag.

* Spring was in good condition and filing from it didn't seem to decrease the level.
* Death slabs fixed lines were all in good condition
* There was a 5mm accessory chord across the rope toss. The sheath is cut exposing the core (which was still in good condition) so its life is probably limited.

From my sample, on each weekend day (Sat, Sun) there were two parties on the wall. One doing it in a day and another doing it in two.
mountain lover

Trad climber
camino, ca
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    Jul 30, 2017 - 01:34am
We did the route on July 28/29
Supposed to be in a day but bivied on big Sandy. Spring was running. Good bivy sites at base. I nailed the rope toss the first time that was easy for me. The new bolt ladder to pendulum to a ledge was pretty straight forward went pretty easy just a
few reach ones. The last bolt ladder was a lot harder I thought pitch 22 or so. The last bolt well out of reach from top step of aider I tossed a sling with biner on end through a loop cord someone left tied to the bolt clipped my aider to that. After clipping a real runner into bolt I realized the cord hanging I had just aided on was shoelace. I left the runner to facilitate others getting to that way too stinking high bolt. I thought the last exit pitch I would run on, but route finding was a bit tricky. Miserable as bivu on big Sandy was finishing in dark would have been worse.
top left corner top right corner
Big Sandy bivy <br/>
Big Sandy bivy

Credit: mountain lover
bottom left corner bottom right corner
Urmas

Social climber
Sierra Eastside
Jun 6, 2017 - 06:31pm
 
Isn't it about time to delete the free rating to this climb?
blairbear

Trad climber
Newton Abbot, Devon, UK.
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    May 25, 2017 - 03:00pm
Just to let you know a group of four of us topped out on Sunday 21st May 2017, were we the first party this year? It took us three days to climb the Northwest Regular route. If you require any current information about the route please contact blairthomson@live.co.uk and I will try my best to answer your questions.

Here is an update as I keep getting the same questions:

The spring was running when we arrived I couldn't tell you if it still is now.

The rope toss has to be executed still.

I would recommend at least one 70m rope for the lower outs/linking pitches.

The ropes leading up the death slabs are not in the best condition to get four of us up we rigged our own rope to ascend once the leader had ascended.

Most of the route was aid climbed we didn't free much of it.

Apparently a size 4 cam was very useful.

Hope this helps!
ClimbingRanger

Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
Oct 12, 2016 - 09:59am
 
In September, Yosemite climbing rangers and the park geologist climbed the route to assess the rockfall from last year. Photos and a trip report can be found on ClimbingYosemite.com

http://www.climbingyosemite.com/portfolio/half-dome-rockfall-2/

Safe climbing!
juan.brein

Trad climber
London
Jul 25, 2016 - 11:49am
 
So we did the route on Saturday in a day. I posted a video with the rope toss: [Click to View YouTube Video]

The new pitches are:

Pitch 11:

Climb a new bolt ladder (8 bolts). At the moment one of the hangers is missing so we clove hitch a sling to the washer. Easy pendulum to a 5.8 mantel on loose rock. Build a new anchor takes BD 1 - 0.50

Pitch 12:

5.11 with some fixed gear. Go up to the higher bolt and:
 Execute a rope toss
 Use beaks and hooks and aid higher to pendulum to the chimneys


None of both add difficulty to the route.
Mr_T

Trad climber
Northern California
Jul 6, 2016 - 10:52am
 
I'd be worried about chunks of that chimney falling off. It was previously supported by the big ledge system (that fell off). The chimney seems to be held on from above and behind, but no longer below.
SlopingBivyFor4

Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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    Jun 27, 2016 - 06:33pm
https://goodlooksandcamhooks.wordpress.com/2016/06/27/a-high-adventure-marathon-regular-northwest-face-half-dome/
Trip report

The route goes with a few pendulums and the knot throw pioneered by earlier parties.
Fun stuff!
WBraun

climber
May 23, 2016 - 04:31pm
 
Regular Northwest Face, Half Dome has not yet been inspected by OSHA.

Until they do it is deemed unsafe.

When will OSHA inspect Regular Northwest Face, Half Dome to deem it safe?

NEVER!

Thus it will remain unsafe forever .....
keyan

climber
May 23, 2016 - 04:21pm
 
Is it safe to climb NWF this season? Have there been parties on it yet?
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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    Jul 29, 2015 - 11:22am
New topo for missing section after July 2015 rock fall
top left corner top right corner
Rough hand drawn topo of new variations. RNWF
Rough hand drawn topo of new variations. RNWF
Credit: Bivi Brothers
bottom left corner bottom right corner
looks easy from here

climber
Santa Cruzish
Jul 6, 2015 - 10:42am
 
I can't take credit for any of the information in this thread about a rockfall that occurred around 7/4/15, but it probably ought to be here:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2651396/Half-Dome-Rockfall

Just got a call from a buddy who is currently at the top of pitch 11 (pitch above the Robbins traverse) of the regular route on Half Dome and he says the ledge there is missing! Anyone heard of recent rock fall on HD? He's done the route before so I kinda trust what he's saying, as outlandish as it sounds.

Thread includes some photos of the changes, and ClimbingRanger posted:

Hey folks,

The Yosemite climbing management along with the park geologist is actively researching the recent rockfall event on pitch 11 (it's disappearance) of the Regular Northwest Face on Half Dome. We will be evaluating it this afternoon from the ground and will be up at the base and on the route tomorrow to get a closer look.

We know that getting over to the anchors at the end of the Robbins Traverse is unlikely due to the routes current state. We recommend holding off on climbing the route until we have more information. As we gather more details we will keep the community updated here and on the Yosemite Climbing Information website.

http://www.climbingyosemite.com

If you have information about the event or questions, you can reach our office at 209-372-0360 or contact us from the website.

Thanks and be safe,

Brandon Latham
Climbing Ranger
Yosemite National Park
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Jun 19, 2015 - 05:07am
 
Every time I've been up there there has been rocks coming down. I'm amazed more climbers haven't been killed by falling rocks, as I've had a few really close calls while on this route. A few Summers ago, my son and I were bivying at the base, and rocks were coming down all night.

When I did the Direct NWF, back in 1972, there was an enormous rockfall, (many tons), below us. We had already gone across Thank God ledge, but I thought the whole face was coming down. I'll never forget it.

Be careful up there!
mountain lover

Trad climber
camino, ca
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    Jun 18, 2015 - 09:31pm
The rock fall was afternoon of 6/11 we climbed the route 6/12
Ropeboy

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 17, 2015 - 03:59pm
 
Years ago we had some rock fall when we were three of four pitches off the ground. A few watermelon sized rocks came tumbling down from above with a scary whoosh, whoosh, helicopter sound. It was too early in the morning for hikers to be on top. It was also spring time and only lasted a few minutes.
heldt.ewa

Social climber
Fremont
Jun 16, 2015 - 09:09pm
 
mountain lover - on which dates have you been climbing?
mountain lover

Trad climber
camino, ca
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    Jun 10, 2015 - 07:01am
As of 6/10/ 15, Spring is running full bore, gave me 4 liters in less than 2 minutes. Fixed ropes are in.

While starting up to fix first pitch, there was rock fall from the summit. One of the parties said it came off the Visor and looked like someone rolled it off the Visor, but it also could have just peeled off the visor. There were 7 parties in cue to climb the next day, 4 bailed after the rock fall (3 separate events apx 5 minutes apart from each other, apx bowling ball sized boulders). They free fell and did not hit wall until about top of pitch 3 0r 4 or so and just right of the route. I hugged the wall and got sprayed by sand falling the larger chunks landed further away from the wall. We reported it to the rangers.

After no further rock fall through the evening and night, decided to go for it and did not have any the next day.

Be safe out there.
Madskates

climber
SLC, UT
Jun 3, 2015 - 08:49pm
 
The spring is running at full blast as of 3/3/15. All the lines are looking good on the death slabs as well.
clie

climber
May 21, 2015 - 12:41pm
 
Hi, does any one know if the spring is running now ? Planning to do the route first week of June and want to make sure we don't have to hike in with all of our water. Thanks!
travis h

climber
CA
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    Mar 23, 2015 - 07:46am
Death slabs are free of snow and the fixed ropes are there. Spring is running at the base. The route was in great condition as of 3/21.
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Mar 22, 2015 - 04:50pm
 
Try the web cam for starters

http://www.tranquilityimages.com/cams.shtml

Looks snow free to me up there.
drsmonkey

Trad climber
A hole
Mar 21, 2015 - 08:39am
 
Anybody been up the Death Slabs lately?

Given the weather this winter we are thinking about skipping the annual early April desert trip and heading to the Valley instead to have another go at RNW.

How wet are the slabs and are the ropes gtg? Any snow up top?

Thanks

DRS
Matt's

climber
Sep 5, 2014 - 02:28pm
 
nezbit

1)yes, if you so desire. Doesn't save that much time, and now you are bringing two ropes with you.
2)yes, you could pull on draws and stand on bolts.
3) There is pretty much always fixed gear present. If it is gone, no usual gear is needed-- just normal small cams and nuts.
4) Don't know.
Nezbit

climber
Sep 2, 2014 - 04:01pm
 
Hey all!

A few questions about RNWF:

1) Can pitches 1-3 be fixed with 2 60m ropes?

2) Can the Robbins Traverse bolt ladder be french freed (pulling on draws w/out etriers)?

3) If there is no fixed gear in the 1st and 3rd zig zag, what gear is needed to free those pitches?

4) Which is the best way to go free climbing the 3rd Zig Zag--out right or straight up?

Thanks!
dindolino32

climber
san francisco
Aug 25, 2014 - 12:49pm
 
check out the thread "Fixed Rope Status in Yosemite"
Spring is most likely dry.
Judd

Trad climber
New York
Aug 25, 2014 - 11:26am
 
Planning on climbing around Sept 10th. Anyone have updates on the ropes/spring?
lrod

Trad climber
Atlanta, Ga
Aug 17, 2014 - 06:26pm
 
Any recent information on the spring?
matty

Trad climber
Sad the forum is gone =(
Aug 17, 2014 - 09:53am
 
Just do your research. There are a ton great tips if you seek out trip reports from IAD sends of half dome. 80m would be overkill 70 works fine, you can get it down to 17p or so with a 70. Practice climbing with the same gear you plan on taking (including water, clothes, food...everything so you can get a true feel for how it will be). Practice some pendulums first so you guarantee things go smoothly, leader should clean the top 5 bolts on pendulum so follower won't have to lower out, just swing over.
Jared Benik

Sport climber
Reno
Aug 17, 2014 - 09:25am
 
question, what are keys things that a two person party need to do in order to pull a one day accent on the route and is it possible to link pitchs with a 80 meter rope?
virtja1

climber
Aug 17, 2014 - 08:43am
 
Hey guys, anyone can help with beta on Robbins traverse?
Is it easy for follower to do it without technical knowledge of pendulums?
Thx, Jan.
kolbu

Trad climber
Aug 11, 2014 - 12:13am
 
Is the spring still running?
Pie

Trad climber
So-Cal
Jul 31, 2014 - 09:58am
 
Spring strong as of 7/24
protour

Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
Jul 22, 2014 - 11:46am
 
Is the spring still running
Pie

Trad climber
So-Cal
Jul 11, 2014 - 06:42pm
 
Hows the spring holding up this year?
alina

Trad climber
CA
May 13, 2014 - 01:41am
 
ropes held my weight. death slabs are dry.
whitemeat

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
May 12, 2014 - 06:39pm
 
I would go ahead and say the conditions are perfect...

based on this pic taken like 4 mins ago!

top left corner top right corner
Credit: whitemeat
bottom left corner bottom right corner

the ropes IDK... but I remember that the slabs were pretty easy even without ropes... I would bet they are up though!

have fun!
tahoe523

Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
May 12, 2014 - 06:06pm
 
anyone head up the death slabs this season and know the conditions/fixed ropes?
The_Butcher

Big Wall climber
Oklahoma City, OK
Sep 26, 2013 - 03:04pm
 
Spring still has water in it. 09/26
Badger8

Trad climber
Durango, CO
Sep 22, 2013 - 02:44pm
 
We are going for RNWF starting 9/28ish. Spring still running?
jedster

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Sep 15, 2013 - 01:50am
 
Water in spring at base as of yesterday. (9/13).
The_Butcher

Big Wall climber
Oklahoma City, OK
Sep 14, 2013 - 06:24pm
 
Spring running?
Neil Adams

climber
Glasgow, Scotland
Sep 10, 2013 - 04:16pm
 
The spring was running on Saturday (7th Sept).
Hobotron

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Sep 4, 2013 - 02:15pm
 
A random message on the message board at camp 4 said the spring was running as of 8/29/13. How much credibility you give a random message is up to you, but that's the word on the street.

Good luck!
Jason A Graves

Trad climber
Carlsbad, CA Anchoredman.com
Aug 31, 2013 - 07:57pm
 
Anyone know if the spring is still flowing? Planning on climbing on Monday Sep 2.
Wannabeclimber

Trad climber
North Shore, HI
Aug 14, 2013 - 01:12am
 
08-11-13. Spring is running strong! Saw a party dip their bottles in and drink straight from it. Fixed lines and rap station is solid. Lots of fixed gear. I think every penji and tension traverse had tat to make things a whole lot easier (if you want to use it). Lots of trash at base and some on route. We packed out some, but couldn't take it all. Have fun!
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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    Aug 13, 2013 - 06:42pm
As of Aug 10, 1 spring is dry, the other is still running and deep enough to easily fill water bottles.
flycess210

Trad climber
Mechanicsburg, PA
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    Aug 12, 2013 - 03:45pm
Just got off the route on Saturday 8/10/13! What an amazing climb. Spring is still running but low and all the fixed ropes are still there.
Wannabeclimber

Trad climber
North Shore, HI
Aug 7, 2013 - 09:13pm
 
Thanks for all the previous posts! Have to ask though, any update on the spring? Looking to give RNWF a go starting fri/sat. Thanks in advance.
Jaysen

Big Wall climber
NYC
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    Aug 3, 2013 - 09:33pm
As of Aug 3rd 2013, the spring under the base of the RNWF is running but low, and all fixed lines up the death slabs are in place. cheers
jjj

Trad climber
squamish
Aug 2, 2013 - 01:11am
 
Any recent reports on spring? Fix lines in ok shape and or still there. read about snapped line.. Lucky.. Might go give it a try next week
Thad Arnold

climber
Oregon
Jul 17, 2013 - 12:34pm
 
Spring is running as of July 17th, 2013. It looked pretty much the same as a month ago.

Also, when you're starting the decent from the base back to the valley it's very easy to get suckered into schwacking through manzanita. To avoid this, take the cairned decent trail (the last good looking trail taking off from the base before you get cliffed out on a little bulge) and then look very carefully for a sneaky slightly uphill LEFT turn within the first couple hundred feet. This keeps the manzanita to a minimum.
namascar

Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
Jul 1, 2013 - 10:24am
 
Spring at the base is running as of June the 30th,(2013). Temps are supper high in the wall in the afternoon.
We had some trouble with pitch 22, one before the last. The pengy between the two bolt ladders can be tricky at night, as the bolts are hard to see and you need to be in front of the bolts to see them. The first bolt ladder has 3 bolts, from the first of which there was a 3 feet decolored bluish sling hanging. Two bolts follow. Then there is a red sling hanging from a bolt way higher up. We didn't see any bolts in between. Go to this higher bolt from where the red sling hangs and pengy from there to a 1 foot roundish feature in the horizontal crack. Get a cam hook in the feature, then left to it, in the horizontal crack get a green alien (not great), then left to it, get a yellow alien (good). Stand on the yellow alien and when the bolt is in front of your nose, you will see it (at night).
Great route, enjoy.
whitemeat

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Jun 22, 2013 - 04:27pm
 
both the springs are running as of 6/21/13
top left corner top right corner
spring 1
spring 1
Credit: whitemeat
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
spring 2
spring 2
Credit: whitemeat
bottom left corner bottom right corner
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Jun 20, 2013 - 04:20pm
 
My son and I were up there a few days ago. A young climber, up higher was real lucky when he pulled a flake off the size of a refrigerator, which is now wedged in the bottom of the chimney, after you traverse right. It shredded his rope.

There is a ton of stuff up there just waiting to be knocked/pulled off by a careless or unlucky climber. I was very cautious on the route, having had close calls in the past up there.
Paul B

Big Wall climber
Sheffield, UK
Jun 20, 2013 - 03:55pm
 
Thanks. We went up there, the LH spring is going strong.

There was a lot of rock coming down, all through the night and then a large rock came worryingly close to my partner as we were flaking out the ropes at the base of the route (5AM so unlikely to have been tourists or climbers above). Take care and don't forget a helmet each time you go to fill your water!
tallmark515

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jun 19, 2013 - 02:20am
 
Condition & accident report: Fixed lines on death Slabs

On 6/15 my partner and I were approaching HD for our first time via death slabs. At the third set of fixed lines, we followed the party ahead of us and attempted to use the fixed lines on the climbers right (at the rappel). Just to the left of the rappel lines, there is a shorter white (not climbing rope) line tied to a tree in a gully. Moments after complaining about the sketchiness of the line, it snapped on me and sent me sliding about 100 feet down the 5th class slabs. Fortunately, after being slowed down by a bush and after a collision with my partner, I stopped at a dirt ledge just before the small drop off.

I want to make it clear that the line the broke WAS NOT climbing rope (or static line), it looked like hardware store rope. After the accident, we opted to use the fixed lines on the climbers left of the gully (which seemed to be the "correct" approach lines). All other fixed lines on the approach (and descent) are climbing rope and/or static lines and in most cases are either doubled or tripled up and seem to be in decent condition.

The other half of the line is still up there attached to the tree... don't use it (obviously) and be careful out there!

I included a modified topo for reference:
top left corner top right corner
Credit: tallmark515
bottom left corner bottom right corner

and this photo:
top left corner top right corner
Credit: tallmark515
bottom left corner bottom right corner

...and yes the spring was running at the base.
Paul B

Big Wall climber
Sheffield, UK
Jun 16, 2013 - 08:55pm
 
Does anyone know if the spring is still running? I don't want to hike up the slabs to find I'm coming straight back to the valley floor!
climbski2

Mountain climber
The Ocean
Jun 9, 2013 - 08:05pm
 
Potable is a relative term. I went non-filtered and had no issues and I would be comfortable doing so again. Hard to recommend it to others as my level of acceptable risk with water is probably higher than most. Generally speaking high sierra water is safer than most city water based on the water studies I have seen. At least where people are not likely to be using the bathroom. However this is a heavily traveled area and YRMV. It can get muddy/gritty once it gets low. I hear it currently is getting low. Donini now has the concession wrapped up so get yours while you can.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2154794/Half-Dome-spring-concession-at-last

Pic courtesy of cosmiccragsman
[Click to View Linked Image]
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
Jun 9, 2013 - 07:55pm
 
Is the spring water at the base potable? Or does it have to be filtered?
Reinhard Brand

Big Wall climber
Austria
Jun 8, 2013 - 11:02pm
 
Shuttled some gear up on the hottest day of the season today and checked the springs, both are running but not too much. Good enough to fill your bottles though.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
May 20, 2013 - 04:18pm
 
Fixed ropes are in good condition. At least two ropes at all places.

At the upper split I think its best to go up the left side on the way up. When going down, rappel the right side "50m rap"(see photo below). There is a fixed static line at the 50m rap that has one knot you must pass, but it is super easy to do so. The other line that is fixed at this spot has many tied off core shots, and should be avoided for rappelling.

top left corner top right corner
Half Dome Death Slabs
Half Dome Death Slabs
Credit: Supertopo.com
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Slabs are wet in one place, but there is a fixed line to cross the running water.

Spring at base is flowing.

Tons of people on the route yesterday, 5/19
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
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    May 20, 2013 - 04:03pm
Climbed it last Saturday (no one else on route, but saw a fixed line up first pitch and someone's camping gear spread out), but had to take the trail to approach/descent this climb since there were thunderstorms through the week and even the roads in Yosemite were wet. Slabs looked wet. Maybe dried up now. Not much snow at all at the base. We did not have to climb over any snow to get on 1st pitch. Hope it helps.

Incredible route.

[Click to View Linked Image]
jvSF

Trad climber
San Francisco
May 20, 2013 - 03:50pm
 
has anyone gone up the death slabs approach this season? fixed rope conditions?
Jeremy Hadland

Trad climber
aptos
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    May 19, 2013 - 04:11pm
4 people will fit on big sandy, I've done it. It's a series of ok sized ledges so not tons of extra room but good enough for a decent nights sleep.
Funk 29

Trad climber
Wallowa, OR
May 6, 2013 - 08:36pm
 
It will be tight, and sloping, but their sure could be worse places to bivy 4.
Brandon Adams

Big Wall climber
Monterey, CA
May 6, 2013 - 07:51pm
 
Can four people (2 parties of 2) bivy at or around Big Sandy Ledge?
phile

Trad climber
SF, CA
Sep 25, 2012 - 06:38pm
 
9/23/12: the springs are dry. There's a trickle of water near the top of the fixed lines if you're desperate, but it's barely flowing and is tricky to get to.
jong

Trad climber
Fullerton ,CA
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    Sep 24, 2012 - 12:42pm
Is Spring still running? Thanks.
Alpamayo

Trad climber
Davis, CA
Sep 21, 2012 - 02:59pm
 
I just did this route a couple weeks ago and the first half is such a blur that I don't remember for sure...but I don't remember seeing rap rings on the bottom half at all. Almost every belay had bolts/fixed pins, but I don't remember seeing rap rings. At most I'd think you would end up leaving a few carabiners at the belays. But my memory is notoriously bad. Supertopo doesn't specify.
DRV

Trad climber
Sep 21, 2012 - 02:51pm
 
Question:

Are there rap rings on the first half on the RNWF or does rappelling require leaving gear???
Short Fall Sean

Social climber
Sep 18, 2012 - 08:46pm
 
Any super duper recent beta on whether the spring is running or not? I'm planning on climbing it this weekend.

Thanks
Alpamayo

Trad climber
Davis, CA
Sep 11, 2012 - 07:19pm
 
Spring running as of 9/5/12. Didn't know that ahead of time and we carried up ~50 lbs of water. Rummage around the base and you might find a dropped #1 Camalot and a single ascender...no telling what condition they are in!
travis h

climber
CA
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    Sep 2, 2012 - 11:28pm
Spring is running as of 9/1. I found a camera at the base that was dropped from around thank god ledge. Camera seems to be broken but the memory card is fine. Let me know if this is your camera and I can return it.
cencalclimber

climber
Aug 28, 2012 - 05:02pm
 
Thinking about heading up the middle-end of September. If the springs are not running at the base, are there any perennial springs in the vicinity? Would be a drag to carry up all that water...
Wylie

climber
Aug 27, 2012 - 11:54am
 
Left spring flowing on 8/25/12.
cmclean

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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    Aug 1, 2012 - 12:35am
The spring was flowing slowly on Saturday, July 28. A filter or hose to siphon from the pool into your bottles is useful, otherwise you'll get a fair bit of debris in your water.
Sue H

Sport climber
Macomb, MI
Jul 30, 2012 - 08:00pm
 
Any word on the stream at the base, water still running?
TripleS_in_EBs

climber
Poulsbo, WA
Jun 23, 2012 - 11:24pm
 
The spot at the top of pitch 11 (just before the chimneys) also looks ok. We had heard that it had collapsed but it was intact. It's kind of a huge up opening flake peeling off the wall (like a lot of the NW face) that looks like people have piled blocks between the flake and the wall to create a ledge. (But maybe those blocks got there via gravity - don't know.)
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 23, 2012 - 05:13pm
 
I slept on 3 for about an hour and a half after starting the route at 10pm, I was tired as hell and that small amount of rest was enough to see me through to the top. Crappy spot to sleep unless you are really tired!
MX

Trad climber
Bellevue, WA
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    Jun 23, 2012 - 05:02pm
I agree, the best places to bivy are #6, one pitch below Big Sandy, and Big Sandy.
TripleS_in_EBs

climber
Poulsbo, WA
Jun 23, 2012 - 02:53am
 
Regarding the question below about bivy at top of 3rd pitch: I'd say sleep on the ground or at top of pitch 6 but not 3. As I recall, there's a a small nook at the top of 3 where two people can stand side-by-side. Maybe two people could sit there, but that's about it. We were warned not to cache food there due to rodents.

Two of us bivied at top of pitch 6 and it was better than I expected. It's sloping in two directions, but you can lay down and there's a butt scoop or two to hold you in place. There are a few photos and some video of this "ledge" in the following video:
http://vimeo.com/33384803
Some people say it's subject to rock fall, and I can see how that might be the case considering its location below the shoulder. We only experienced a pebble or two. When you see its position from a few hundred feet above, though, it does make you think that rock fall could be an issue.

Perhaps those with more Yosemite experience can comment on the rockfall history.
Blaise

Big Wall climber
France
Jun 20, 2012 - 04:54am
 
Hi
We climbed the RNW route on June 11 and 12, 2012.
We made the approach on June 10th through the Mist trail - the Rangers having told us that the spring was drying out - and carried water from Little Yosemite valley upward!

The spring was still running and the water excellent.

Walked down on June 12th to take our stuff at the bottom of the face, slept there and walked down on June 13th through the Slabs.

Fixed ropes were there, in various level of form and shape but we used them.

Great climb, painful approach both ways.

On our side 1rst time in Yosemite - since we came from France.

Philippe
ilona

climber
May 30, 2012 - 02:07pm
 
Any current info on the slabs approach conditions?
lunger

Gym climber
SF, CA
Oct 4, 2011 - 12:55am
 
Spring was still running this morning (10/3/11) at the base for all who are wondering. Light flow but it's there. Not sure for how much longer though. I'd guess at least another couple weeks?

Is there a reason there aren't free variations drawn on the topo in the guide? It's not like there are that many. Maybe I have an old copy.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Sep 30, 2011 - 05:23pm
 
i slept for an hour at the top of the third pitch because i was so tired. started climbing at 10 pm after starting work that morning at 7am in san francisco. after a little midnight nap at the 3rd, we climbed through to the top, summiting at 9 pm.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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    Sep 30, 2011 - 05:18pm
A SuperTopo member just sent me the following suggestion to the topo

top left corner top right corner
Credit: Chris McNamara
bottom left corner bottom right corner
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Sep 9, 2011 - 03:05pm
 
You could... but why? 2 60m raps from the ground and big flat spots? it would be cramped and you would be sitting up/against eachother.

Practice jugging, you can jug those 3 pitches in under 20 min. Just set your alarm 20 minutes earlier :D
drwb

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Sep 9, 2011 - 01:06pm
 
Question: Anyone have any beta on possible bivy on top of pitch 3? Herd its possible though the grapevine.
howie doin'

climber
Bishop, CA
Aug 23, 2011 - 09:26pm
 
Hi everyone,

The springs are still running and the fixed lines up the Death Slabs seem in decent shape. We did not actually climb the route today as planned due to a fatality on the NW Face that put a damper on things. I will post a TR on this.
Matt Leonard

Trad climber
California
Aug 13, 2011 - 04:20am
 
Climbed it Aug 6th - both springs still running. Several pitches are linkable - see the SuperTopo. You can fix the first 5 pitches with 3 60m ropes - just barely. Lots of belays have some fixed gear - a bolt or two here and there, sometimes with some old rope/slings. Generally, most belays still need some gear -sometimes entirely, sometimes to supplement the fixed stuff.
aeveland

Sport climber
OR
Aug 10, 2011 - 09:04pm
 
How many and what pitches are linkable? How many pitches have bolted anchors?
troy norman

Trad climber
camas,wa
Jul 26, 2011 - 05:01pm
 
I heard there was an alternate route to the Base of NWFHD instead of the death slab approach and I am not referring to the JMT. It's a longer but less dangerous variation to the death slabs. Anyone know about this?

Thanks
Highlife

Trad climber
California
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    Jul 20, 2011 - 01:07pm
Climbed it yesterday, spring is still running.
Ketostyx

Trad climber
Evansville, IN
Jul 19, 2011 - 12:26pm
 
Does the spring run this late in the summer?
Erust

Trad climber
Sandpoint, ID
Jun 5, 2011 - 10:52pm
 
Noticed that the supertopo of this route doesn't have pitches 22 and 23...any info on why/background? Thanks. E
crossman04

Trad climber
Ventura, CA
May 31, 2011 - 08:59pm
 
I just gave the RNWF a shot last week (before memorial day). (long story short we had to bail on day 2) With regards to the approach and the snow at the base: There are some fixed lines up pretty much where you would expect them in regards to the topo. However, after the fixed lines we couldn't find the trail up to the base and ended up bush whacking quite a bit. It took us an hour longer than we expected due to this.

As for the snow at the base there is still a decent amount of snow and my belayer was basically standing on a small snow bridge while I did the 1st pitch. The bivy spots are at the base of the snow and are pretty well marked/flat. The snow from the bivy to the base of the wall was kind of a pain but nothing really dangerous.

Hope this helps.
Erust

Trad climber
Sandpoint, ID
May 31, 2011 - 05:38pm
 
Anybody been on the route yet this spring that can give beta on access, snow level at base, condition of route after a long winter? Thanks. E
pix4u

climber
Sonoma, CA
Feb 17, 2011 - 09:16pm
 
This photo was not posted, but taken
top left corner top right corner
Credit: pix4u
bottom left corner bottom right corner
many years later than the B&W
pix4u

climber
Sonoma, CA
Feb 17, 2011 - 09:13pm
 
Here arec couple of shots to get you all psyched up for the climb![photo
top left corner top right corner
Credit: pix4u
bottom left corner bottom right corner
id=191531]
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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    Feb 13, 2011 - 08:28pm
here is a thread on fixing strategy

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1411673/SuperTopo-Half-Dome-NW-Face-description
Weiss

Trad climber
CA
Oct 11, 2010 - 07:54pm
 
Thanks Buju!
Buju

Big Wall climber
the range of light
Oct 11, 2010 - 06:30pm
 
right before you start going up sub dome, go right down the social trail...
Weiss

Trad climber
CA
Oct 11, 2010 - 01:42pm
 
If I am approaching the route via the JMT, is it obvious where to head down to the Northwest face?

Thanks in advance for any responses.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Oct 4, 2010 - 06:39pm
 
Actually, the whole face is running.
Hoots

climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 4, 2010 - 06:04pm
 
Spring is running as of last week.
DaveT.

Big Wall climber
Mammoth Lakes
Oct 4, 2010 - 06:04pm
 
it is definately still running, probably for the rest of the season
Weiss

Trad climber
CA
Oct 4, 2010 - 01:41pm
 
Anyone know if the spring is still running?
RichWhite

Trad climber
Hove, sussex
Sep 16, 2010 - 05:41pm
 
Hi

We did this starting at 12.30am on the 8th September, climbing by headtorch. By dawn we were at pitch 8 or 9 and making good progress. The Robbins traverse was good fun as were the next few pitches. Once in the chimneys progress slowed due to the style of climbing we Brits aren't used to but also the bad weather as it became very cloudy, damp and cold. Pitch 12 was climbed by squeezing out through the hole and onto the face which was a good laugh as I am not the smallest person. The other chimneys pitches were dispatched with lots of swearing, fear and laughing at the other leader when it wasn't my turn! We arrived at Big Sandy mid afternoon shrouded in cloud with the occassional sleet and rain shower for company. All the other teams lower down has sensibly bailed by this time.

The Zig Zags went with a full on aiding session in the wet as any notion of free clilmbing them had long sinced disappeared!. Thank God Ledge was traversed in the dark and the, now very wet, final 5.8 squeeze was overcome with "Combined Tactics". We through a rope over the top of the squeeze, fixed it to the ground and jugged of the fixed rope, set up a belay and the second climbed the top rope. The last two pitches went without incident, apart from constant shivering as the temps were near 0 degrees celcius, and we arrived on top in the dark and alone. Coming down the cables was the scariest part as they and the rock were coated in frost and soaking wet.

All in all a typical European Alpine experience!

Great route, rivals anything in Europe. Next time I'll leave the shitty weather in England!

Rich
max factor

Trad climber
Sep 15, 2010 - 01:43pm
 
Spring was running good on Sept 13. Great route, we were able to manage a one day ascent which seems way better than hauling. A single #3 camalot and a single #4 camalot were nice to have. Single set of stoppers was plenty.
jsj

climber
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    Sep 14, 2010 - 10:19pm
Stepping through the keyhole out onto the outside of the flake is the way to go. Once outside, you must climb up a somewhat-hollow sounding flake (although there is plenty of gear to be had) at probably low 5.10. Near the top you must make a mid-5.10 reach move out left to a jug, then stand up to the belay.

Oh, and for free-climbers, there's not much beta out there for the Wilder Variation, so I'll post that up here. Move the belay below the bolt ladder way down and left to a shallow right-facing corner. Climb up this with sketchy gear (5.10+ PG13/R) to a welcome bolt, then continue up to another bolt, more gear, etc. Long slings on this stuff. Then begin working straight right, downclimbing at times, along interesting face holds formed by slots, holes and a dike feature. All bolts and a few pins through here. Once you reach the bolt that is the pendulum point for the normal bolt ladder, you're golden. Easy climbing right to good belay stance. And it's all about finger strength and downwards campusing small holds - probably easier to rate as a bunch of V5 boulder problems separated by 5.12 "stances". In other words, it's significantly harder than the rest of the free climbing on this route.
Aussie Dave

Trad climber
Stanford, CA
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    Sep 14, 2010 - 08:54pm
Did the 5.9 squeeze on P12 and would not recommend it for for men with average to large rib cages. You will not fit, and that means soloing a strenuous lieback (5.9ish) with no pro and a nasty fall. Obviously the 5.11c variation would have been better, but I noticed a fun looking outlet in the back of the chimney and heard that you can go that way. Any beta on that - is it hard/dangerous?

As for my 2c, the traverse on P22 is easy without a cam hook - green alien works fine.
ericb

climber
CA
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    Sep 7, 2010 - 06:12pm
Danholio,

The spring was running great when I was up there on Sept. 5th. Didn't seem like it was drying out anytime fast.

A few notes about Half Dome that climbers should know: When planning on camping at the base we are asking climbers to swing by the Wilderness Permit Office p: (209) 372-0745(next to the post office) and grab a free permit. This also allows you to rent a bear canister ($5) if you don't want to deal with hanging your food 40ft up the route. One of these two methods is required, hanging food in a tree hasn't been an effective method against bears.

We've been happy to see climbers respecting the permit and food storage. One of the most obvious advantages to climbers is that it will let you know roughly how many people will be up there and cut back on crowding.

One last thing. PLEASE don't bury your toilet paper up there, it takes decades for it to decompose and natural "tp" (rocks, sticks) work just great. If you must have that cottonelle then pack it out in a ziplock bag.

What a great route! And props to whoever can get that #4 out of Thank-god ledge... I've already tried twice.

Eric
Yosemite Climbing Ranger
Danholio

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Sep 7, 2010 - 02:03pm
 
Another request for beta on the spring and if its still running. Planning on climbing it this Sunday. Any info would be very helpful. Thanks a bunch!
D-Rail

Trad climber
Calaveras
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    Aug 26, 2010 - 05:25pm
This route is awesome! What a great adventure up an iconic wall!

Death Slabs: all fixed lines are there, your hands will thank you if you bring gloves (especially for the descent).

Gear: there is tons of fixed gear on the route. You only need a set of doubles up to #3 camalot. We did the aid variation on pitch 12, and linked 18 +19, and got to the belay with half a rack left. Bring extra biners and draws to clip fixed stuff, and for piton anchors. Offset nuts are very nice, and a medium cam-hook is the ticket for the pitch 22 bolt ladder.
Make sure your haul-bag is small enough that the follower can wear it for the lower angle / traversing pitches, 8 + 9 especially.

Pitch lengths: #6 is way longer than 145', more like 185. We linked/simuled 8-9, this is way longer than the combined 220' that the ST suggests. (lots of rope drag, would have been faster/safer to just pitch it out). And pitch 16 is closer to 160'.

And make sure you are prepared for inane tourist questions when you top-out; as I am building the last belay: "did you just rockclimb up here?"
Clayton

Trad climber
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    Aug 24, 2010 - 03:29pm
Spring was still flowing as of 8/24/2010. Didn't filter at all and it was fine... although I'm not necessarily recommending that.
squatch

Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
Aug 23, 2010 - 11:37pm
 
The Spring is running, and should be for at least another week and a half.

top left corner top right corner
Picture taken Aug. 21st
Picture taken Aug. 21st
Credit: squatch
bottom left corner bottom right corner
Luke Lydiard

Ice climber
CA
Aug 19, 2010 - 03:32pm
 
Any more recent beta on the spring?
runitoutray

Trad climber
ON, Can
Aug 16, 2010 - 12:44pm
 
Water was running in the spring on August 7
Stan Miller

Trad climber
Beaverton, OR
Aug 9, 2010 - 09:52am
 
If the water is not flowing at the base, where is the nearest place? Any help appreciated.
Stan Miller

Trad climber
Beaverton, OR
Aug 5, 2010 - 11:55am
 
Water running at the base now? Looking to climb in two weeks time. Thanks in advance.
mackattack10555

climber
Jul 21, 2010 - 12:21pm
 
I had a few questions for anyone who has recently been on this route please. Was wondering if the 4th bolt had been replaced on pitch 22? I have been reading thru old posts/beta in prep to do this route and there were some comments about the bolt missing. If it hasn't been replaced, what is the recommended way to do this section? Was also wondering about the small gear in terms of cams. The gear recommendations say 2 sets of Metolius Master Cams. Was wondering if it's good to have a few more small pieces, or if that size range would more than cover? or is it comfort level dependent? Also read about beta for a hook, cam hook, and green alien on the last pitch traverse. Is that about right? May not have a cam hook, is this a necessary piece of gear for the route? Last question, was wondering about those approach slabs. Pretty much any info would be good. My partner and I are trying to determine how hard they will feel with heavy packs on? As well are the fixed lines on them in good condition? Thank you to whomever can answer some or all of these questions. Hope everyone is doing well out there.
cotton.jon

Trad climber
New Britain, CT
Jul 18, 2010 - 08:29pm
 
Not sure if this was just here-say or what, but a #5 camalot is too small to protect the 5.8 squeeze after Thank God ledge. It's useful on pitch 17 (Double Crack) but not necessary. If you leave it at the top of the offwidth on 17 for protection, be careful about it walking in. Spent 20 minutes getting it unstuck. I wouldn't bring it.

Route is wonderful! Thanks again to Brett and Dan who so graciously boiled water for us at the base on Thursday night (we forgot our pot). We saw the chipmunk that ate your food at the 5th belay!
enjoimx

Trad climber
Yosemite
Jul 17, 2010 - 04:11pm
 
Did the route in 16 hours on Thurs, July 15, 2010

Started at midnight and topped out at 4 pm. First time on half dome. The route is really easy to follow with the Supertopo. The temps were 95 in the valley, but perfect on the wall, especially before 2 pm when the sun hit the wall. Tons of fixed gear on this route. The springs are flowing, both, and look like they will be good for a few more weeks at least.
The Compruta

Trad climber
Casper, WY
Jul 14, 2010 - 02:50am
 
Thanks Jay Wood! Very helpful.

I was referring to the lower outs for the second (I misspoke when I wrote "pendulums"). So if the fixed cords were to be missing (which I'm sure they aren't), would 40 feet of cord be enough for the lower outs?

Bill? We'll be on the route on Friday for a one day ascent.

-Jon
billclimb

Trad climber
Jul 13, 2010 - 09:41pm
 
Question:

Debating doing RNWF one-day ascent on Friday or Sat. We arrive Thur evening and would car-car.
Any good guesses if there will be crowds on Sat. Will Sat be busy?
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
Jul 13, 2010 - 02:40am
 
-yes

-I did, many don't

-3 qts/person plenty- in shade until early afternoon

 there are fixed cords at pendulums, but generally you swing on the lead rope, no?

-a hook, a cam hook, & green alien will speed up the next to last pitch traverse
The Compruta

Trad climber
Casper, WY
Jul 12, 2010 - 11:58pm
 
Heading up Thursday to do the route on Friday. Couple questions:

-Is it straightforward getting to the base of the route from the Muir Trail? If not, anyone have beta on the approach?

-Should we filter the water at the spring?

-About how much water for two people is recommended for a one day ascent?

-How much cord do you need for the upper pendulums? We were thinking of just using a long cordalette (30-40 ft.) if they're short enough.

-Any time-saving tips would be appreciated. We're planning to link where we can.

Thanks,
Jon
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
Jul 7, 2010 - 02:43am
 
As I suspected, the 'bay tree' on the first pitch is not a bay tree.

Possibly huckleberry oak?
Cosimon

climber
Boulder, CO
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    Jun 20, 2010 - 11:50pm
Climbed it on Tuesday.

There's a chunk of snow at the base you get to walk up, with a small bergschrund/hole you get to step over. It was pretty easy when I did it, but it will get worse before it gets better.

The route itself is dry though the water streaks in the middle of the face blow with the wind -- if there's a strong wind blowing east, expect to get rained on. It was relatively calm for us, and we only got spit on a few times.

Used a stick instead of an ice axe to get from the base of the cables back to the base of the face for the 150 foot snow traverse. Wasn't so bad, especially in the slushy afternoon/evening snow.

We slept at the base before and after the climb -- one night the mosquitoes were horrible, the next they were absent.

Overall nothing was too bad, just be prepared for a little out of the ordinary Cali conditions!
TMayse

climber
Jun 15, 2010 - 04:06pm
 
Just climbed the route on Saturday. The route is dry although you have to scramble up to the base which is covered in snow, I did it my crocs and changed shoes on the rock.

We hiked up from the valley floor (slab approach), did the route and came back around to grab our approach shoes. We had to negoitate snow by traversing 170' (roped in)to get back to HD's base. It sucked but better than hiking out via John Muir or Mist Trail..

Hope that helps..
Teti

Trad climber
Phila, Pa.
Jun 13, 2010 - 07:30pm
 
I'll be in the Valley this coming Friday from Pa. I'm also interested in Half Dome Conditions.
Justinsev

Trad climber
Philadelphia, Pa
Jun 13, 2010 - 05:45pm
 
Hoping to get up the Regular Northwest route on HD this week. Anyone know if the climb is dry? Has anyone been up there recently? The base still looks snowy, but I'm hoping the route (chimneys) are dry. Thanks.
mareko

Trad climber
San Francisco
May 24, 2010 - 11:06pm
 
I'm still hoping to go up HD the second week of June. But mother nature is being stubborn this year. Another alternative for you would be leaning tower, west face or check out the first 10 pitches of the Nose. Its a great climb for a day. Also Washington Column is a great climb.

I'll out there the weekend of June 4th.
meclimber

Trad climber
Newmarket, NH
May 24, 2010 - 05:49pm
 
Thanks Marko. I guess alternatives are needed. If you'll be out next weekend our the weekend after, shoot me an email. we'll be in C4 from the 29th to the 7th.
mareko

Trad climber
San Francisco
May 24, 2010 - 12:11pm
 
We were in the valley this weekend. The base of HD is still pretty heavy with snowpack. Also the shoulder on the left, if you are looking up at HD looks pretty grim with snowpack. This would be backside approach, not the death slabs.

The valley is expecting more rain this week.

good luck
aka bboi
meclimber

Trad climber
Newmarket, NH
May 17, 2010 - 02:34pm
 
I figured that's what he meant, thanks.
Bboi

Trad climber
San Francisco
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    May 15, 2010 - 07:46pm
I think Mareko was trying to say, he would not recommend the death slabs approach. Still wet
meclimber

Trad climber
Newmarket, NH
May 15, 2010 - 01:00pm
 
mareko, thanks for the update. Have fun this weekend and let me know! Two Weeks till we get there, woo who!
mareko

Trad climber
San Francisco
May 15, 2010 - 10:37am
 
We were in the valley last weekend. The base of HD is still pretty thick with snowpack. We'll keep you posted heading back to the valley next weekend.

This time of year I would recommend the death slabs. Its pretty wet
meclimber

Trad climber
Newmarket, NH
May 12, 2010 - 05:14pm
 
Coming from NH end of may/begining of june. What the snow status? The spring should be running with the melt I imagine. Also, we're planning on approaching via the slabs. Does someone have a topo of the approach or a written version? Thanks.

edit. found the approach info. route topo?
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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    Jan 15, 2010 - 12:33pm
I just got this question: Do you know how many routes on Half Dome funnel through Big Sandy? Is it just the Regular Route of NWFHD? It appears that way from your Big Walls book but just want to make sure for planning purposes so that we don't get caught in a traffic jam up there.

My answer: Only Direct Northwest Face and some other obscure routes go to Big Sandy. But 95% of Half Dome traffic on that face is on the Regular Route. So all the parties on the route before and after you are almost certainly the only ones you will see on the wall.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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    Aug 25, 2009 - 11:59am
Here is video of Alex Honnold Free Soloing Half Dome http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=939691
AndrewC

climber
Oakland California
Aug 5, 2009 - 01:40pm
 
August 4, 2009, the spring is running. The team before us left 2 gallons of water, and we left 5 liters at the bivy site at the base for when the spring runs dry. They are up for grabs.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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    Aug 3, 2009 - 02:27am
Here is a trip report from July 2009 - http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=919046
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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    Apr 27, 2009 - 08:03pm
Here you can see the snow conditions at the base as of April 24, 2009


Visit on flickr.com
Shimanilami

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Sep 2, 2008 - 03:25pm
 
I'm heading up Sept. 8. Does anyone know if there's water in the springs?
TahoeClimb

Trad climber
Westside of the Eastside
Aug 14, 2008 - 02:17pm
 
Does anyone know how the spring is running? Planning on fixing next Monday and blasting Tuesday and Wednesday. Anybody else gonna be on the route on those days?
Garreth Miller

Trad climber
Richmond, CA
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    Aug 7, 2008 - 06:43pm
July 19-20, Fixed lines in decent shape. slabs approach clear. Spring was flowing well. Weather was hot even without sun before 2pm, valley temps in 90's. Had eight liters of liquid which was adequate but not luxurious. Good photo ops with all the traversing and Double Cracks!! One bivy at Big Sandy, just the two of us, comfy. Weird having tourists yelling at us from diving board as we left Big Sandy. I only brought the smallest cam hook, one or two more sizes would have sped up the aid climbing, which is straight forward. Weather report called for four days of clear skies zero chance precipitation but rain and thunderstorms on the 20th made the free climbing on the second to last pitch difficult and I opted for the hook moves, could have used a talon or similar. Be solid on those 5.9 chimneys before you go. If you are going to haul go light, with the low angle, traversing, flakes and chimneys, a heavy bag would be no fun. Incredible climb.
Logdog

climber
CA
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    Sep 22, 2007 - 01:14am
We just climbed the route on wednesday. Super rad!! The fixed lines on the slab aproach are in fine shape, some core shots, but there are alternate lines or knots at those sections. Spring is pretty much dry.
Pastrami

Trad climber
Somewhere on this Planet
Sep 11, 2007 - 01:28am
 
Does anyone know what is the state of the fixed ropes on the slabs approach? Thanks
Caddy

Trad climber
Folsom, CA
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    Aug 29, 2007 - 01:13pm
Guy Graening and Curt Taras of Folsom, CA Climbed the North Face of Half Dome in 2 days with a night spent at the Pitch 11 Bivy. We free climbed most of the route, aiding the bolt ladders, the Zig Zags, and used aid assist in places for speed. We took a day for the approach via the trail and a morning to decend via the slabs. The heat slowed us down some since it was in the 100's in the Valley. Water was preciously available at the spring. The only little bit of trash I saw was tourist junk from the summit. We carried out a Frisbee, some bottles, and a toy airplane. The slabs descent was intact but covered in places with fresh talus from the recent rock fall. Altogether a wonderful combination alpine/big wall style route.
whoburg

climber
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    Aug 27, 2007 - 02:30am
Spring had a full pool, but we couldn't see the usual trickle feeding it. We just filled up at Little Yosemite. Lot's of trash and abandonded gear @ base. I thought the pitch 14 "5.7 airy chimney" was really scary - mostly I spent the whole pitch whining and calling myself a little girl.
Pelles

Trad climber
San Diego, Ca
Aug 20, 2007 - 01:36pm
 
Does anyone know if the spring is still running? We are headed up there on the 26th and would like to know. Thanks
poop_tube

Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
Aug 6, 2007 - 02:28pm
 
It was a trickle. It would take you a while to fill up lots of gallons.
Robbie

climber
Reno, NV
Aug 1, 2007 - 05:07pm
 
was up there this past weekend and the spring was still running.
whoburg

climber
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    Aug 1, 2007 - 04:01pm
Anyone know if the spring is still running, and if it's got another couple weeks in it? Thanks much for any info!
tadhunt

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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    Jul 21, 2007 - 02:14pm
We just got back from climbing this route, and had a great time. We were on the route from Sunday 7/15/2007 (fixing the first 5 pitches, sleeping at the base), until 7/19/2007 (topping out exactly at dawn!) During this time, we heard two enormous rockfall incidents during the night.

We couldn't tell where the first one was, but the second one hammered the death slabs approach for a good 30-40 seconds before stopping. We're not talking a few baseball sized rocks. It really sounded like the grand finale at a fireworks display.

We opted to hike our enormous loads up and back the long way, and while it was strenuous, it was totally worth it.

Edit to add: I forgot to mention, the spring at the base of the climb was flowing fine on 7/19.
Ken Zemach

Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
Jul 9, 2007 - 12:28pm
 
*** Water: as of 7/7/07 (a really dry year), the spring a few feet to the left of the start was still trickling, and the pool was full, so we were able to fill water no problem. No springs to the right of that point along the wall had any water; I do not know if there are more springs further to the left. UPDATE: spring flowing even better 7/15/07.

***Bivying: We bivied at the base the night before. A guy we met in the parking lot prior said to NOT bivy directly at the base of the wall, as there were several small rockfalls while they were there, and it would have been bad. We took his advice, and over the ~8 hours we were at or near the base, there were at least four small rockfall incidents, each with ~1-3 rocks from walnut to fist size that came down. One even brushed my backpack while climbing. Am not convinced that these were tourist related; perhaps wind? Either way, there are many good bivy spots directly downhill from the base of the climb; bivying directly at the base would be foolish. UPDATE: Weekend of 7/14-7/16/07 we were there and there was, again, continual small to medium rockfall that comes directly to the base at completely random times, day and night. Wear your helmet at the base.

***We did not send. A suprise leader fall near the top of the fourth pitch resulted in a dislocated knee (her foot was still cammed in the crack). Luckily, her knee popped back in place, and she was able to hobble down the slabs after we rapped. If the next party wants to grab our sling on the fixed pin and the red Camalot that she rapped from after the fall (top of p4), we'd love 'em back! UPDATE: Sent it with another friend the next weekend. Cam and sling were long gone.
Nate Ricklin

climber
San Diego
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    Jun 25, 2007 - 02:52pm
Some pitch linking beta:

From the top of pitch 12 (the 5.11c C1 or 5.9 squeeze variation) do all the chimneying in one pitch. To do this run your 60m rope all the way out (you'll have zero slack left). It's about 2.5 pitches in one, ending about 40 feet above the ledge at the end of pitch 14 at a fixed pin on a slopey stance inside, but right near the end of the chimney. Use a 3, old 4, and/or new 4 camalot for the anchor. Hauling is a breeze outside the chimney, but your second needs to help with the last 10 feet or so. The next pitch is an easy link and easy haul all the way to the end of pitch 16.

The spring at the base is flowing strong as of 6/19/07

edit: looks like cmclean already posted this beta, but I'll add that it works fine with 60m ropes.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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    Jun 28, 2006 - 02:10pm
great photos and trip report here:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=214668&f=0&b=0
Sir Run-it-out

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Jun 27, 2006 - 01:39pm
 
As of 6/25/6, the spring at the base is still flowing well.
cmclean

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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    Jun 15, 2006 - 02:13am
I was at the Robbins Traverse when that rock fell on Saturday. I had been slightly on edge because there was other rockfall earlier in the day as well (around 3:30am). I heard and saw the rock falling and hitting the ground, it was pretty big. About torso-sized, broke into a few head-sized rocks that went screaming down the slabs. Definitely enough to ruin your day. Glad to hear the people on the descent are safe!

After seeing that, I thought that the long approach was a better idea. After descending the long way, I'm not so sure...
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jun 14, 2006 - 08:00pm
 
I am posting the following for a friend of mine. Also posted in main forum.



On Sat. June 10 my partner and I were beginning the descent of the Half Dome slabs. We were in the talus near the top when we heard rockfall above us, originating below the major (new?) scar near Tis-sa-ack. We had barely enough time to run into the manzanita before a shower of potentially lethal blocks strafed the gully. The rocks rolled all the way down the gully before disappearing as they reached the lower slabs.

Between us we have 50+ years of climbing experience, including, in the case of my partner, alpinism. It was the closest call ever for both of us.

In retrospect, maybe this was not a huge surprise. I noted evidence of recent rockfall in the gully while on the way up. Still, it may be that it is an especially active period for rockfall in this area and the risk-averse may
wish to use alternative approach/descent options for Half Dome.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jun 12, 2006 - 04:40pm
 
The descent was hell!? I can't believe you made the approach in rock shoes! Good advice and congrats on the climb, but I think this goes into the "too obvious to mention" category.
cmclean

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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    Jun 12, 2006 - 04:07pm
Beta that I haven't seen elsewhere but was very useful for our Saturday ascent: You can link pitches 13-16 into two long pitches with 60+ meter ropes. From the P12 belay, run the rope all the way to the end. On our ~63m ropes (the Mammut 60m 8.5s that seem to run a little long) we made it 3/4 of the way up the 5.9 fist of P15 to a little belay ledge without any simul climbing. From there, it is about 170' to the top of P16. If your rope is only 60m long, it would involve about 10 feet of simuling with the second on 5.7 chimney moves.

Extremely important beta: TAKE APPROACH SHOES. We decided to approach/descend in our "comfortable" rock shoes to reduce the weight of the second's backpack. The 8.5 mile descent was pure hell. Carry the weight of additional shoes, it is definitely worth it.
DamnSmokey

Trad climber
Montana
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    May 12, 2006 - 03:54pm
dmurph,

Wish I was going with you and Tom! Looks snowy. Enjoy the slog!

Josh
dmurph

Trad climber
New Haven, CT
May 2, 2006 - 04:59pm
 

Has anyone done the slabs approach yet this season? half dome cam shows a ton of snow at the base, i'm wondering how big a deal it will be to get to the start.

anyone been up there recently?

thanks,

dennis
Denied

Trad climber
Strabane, PA
Nov 17, 2004 - 10:21pm
 
I forgot to add on my last post, I found a belay knife in the weeds at the base. It was a bit far from the base, so I'm guessing it fell from up high. The only reason I'm even trying to get it back to the owner is that it is engraved with the person's name and a date on it.
The name is "ROB BOURNE". If you want it, reply to me with the date, and I'll know it's yours.
Denied

Trad climber
Strabane, PA
Oct 7, 2004 - 03:51pm
 
Hey Guys, there have been a few people e-mailing me about the pics my partner and I took when we were on the route earlier this year. I typed up a trip report and put together a photo gallery. The photo gallery has pics of just about every anchor, a shot below and a shot above. As well as a ton of others. There are over 300 pics in chronological order. To get to the route pictures you may have to forward through the home, flight camp and base pictures. Each picture is named with the pitch number first. For example if you check the properties of a pic you will see "20 looking across to Thank God Ledge" or "9 a view of the bolt ladder". Here is the link to the TRIP REPORT http://www.pittecp.org/schools/mountaineering/site/half_dome.htm and here is the link to THE GALLERY.
http://www.pittecp.org/schools/mountaineering/site/Half%20Dome%20gallery.htm
If you have any questions, or would like a copy of a picture in a higher resolution, please let me know.
malabarista

Trad climber
Strabane, PA
Sep 19, 2004 - 08:56pm
 
We weren't sure we could do this route with only one bivy at P17, so after doing the slabs approach we climbed and hauled up to pitch 6 and bivied there. I'd recommend this strategy to anyone with the same doubts. We started late on the approach -after 8am, but with an earlier start, you would not have to do any climbing in the dark to that bivy(we did p4-6 by headlamp). P6 bivy is not too bad, and us it was a much better feeling to be there at the end of the day, rather than at the base with 3 pitches fixed but with 17 pitches to haul. From p6 We got to Big Sandy without any big worries about running out of time the next day.

We brought a #5 Camalot for the OW after Thank God ledge, but it's only useful for a couple of moves. Still, it provided peace of mind in that section (not used anywhere else). Doubles of yellow, red, and orange aliens were very useful. No #4 is needed anywhere.

We also brought a tag line, which proved totally useless. All lower-outs can be done on the haul line.

As noted before, p22 is missing a bolt. You can either get to the higher bolt by a tricky hook move or free move, or easiest is just penji from the third bolt over to a nearby crack. From there I gained the next bolt ladder using a green alien in a pin scar, followed by a #1 hb offset to a fixed pin. Could have easily left all nuts behind for this route except that one.

We brought way too much water and ended up leaving a generous donation on the route. This route is in the shade nearly all day and you don't need anywhere near the amount of water you'd use on a sunny route. It was pretty cold despite the valley floor temps on the second half of the route.

Awesome route! And it fulfilled that vague sense of incompleteness I got everytime I looked at HD from the valley floor. It was the first wall I've done that was predominantly free climbing, -great training for switching between free, french free, and aid.
Denied

Trad climber
Strabane, PA
Sep 2, 2004 - 10:57am
 
My Buddy and I were there around the 19th and the seep was great. I've seen it in the Fall when it takes awhile to fill back up, but it never seemed to even get low while we filtered. As for the missing bolt, take a hook, there is an OK edge you can use to gain the next bolt. Some things we learned, climb as high as possible on The Robbin's Traverse into the pins and passed the bolts. Makes for an easy tension and you don't have to penjy. Pitch 11s aid was laid back enough I never brought out the aiders. I just pulled on every piece until the tension traverse. Pitch 14, take the so called scary 5.7 chimney. It's easy, quick and takes small wires until you can clip a piton. The 5.8 offwidth passed Thank God Ledge sucks but remember, it's over quickly. Have a blast Bro. If you need further Beta from a couple of weekend climbers, I've got over 100 pics, with shots of every anchor including above and below. The route is truly a blast.
kilgymrats

climber
NC
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    Sep 2, 2004 - 01:31am
Oscar,
I was up there in mid Aug. and the spring was still going. Not strong, but it was there. If it's been as dry as it was when I was there I doubt it's still going. Anyway, the fixed ropes were in place as well and seemed to be...ehhh..in pretty good condition. Just a word of caution, as stated below. It's not any real big deal but pitch 22 does seem to be missing the 4th bolt requiring a manditory free move up to the penj bolt. It was semi-easy face moves..but a little sketchy none the less. Just don't be caught w/o your climbing shoes. Enjoy man!
~jOsh
Oscar

Big Wall climber
NC
Sep 1, 2004 - 10:57pm
 
We are planing to climb the regular NW Face during the week 12-18th of this month and we are looking for information about the springs, the fixed ropes on the slabs and any other helpful beta we can get.
Thank you
outdooreric

Trad climber
Mammoth
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    Aug 2, 2004 - 04:55pm
As of July 29, 2004 the spring was running but weakly. I wouldn't anticipate it lasting much longer without more storms to replenish it.

There appears to be a missing piece of fixed gear on pitch 22, requiring mandatory 5.9 face climbing on the first bolt ladder of the topo. It is also possible to tension left to a piton from the fourth (now third) bolt and skip the tricky cam hook move.

We brought along a #4 camalot and found it to be absolutely useless. It doesn't protect any of the chimneys nor the squeeze after "Thank God Ledge". A #4.5 or #5 camalot would work, but shouldn't be considered mandatory unless planning on sliding it up with you. There is other pro in the pitch 14 chimney using nuts, micro cams and fixed pins.

Do it in a day, hauling would be pretty ugly!
Denied

Trad climber
Strabane, PA
Jul 14, 2004 - 08:18am
 
Was supposed to head out there over Memorial Day, work precluded that. Looks like we're going to try again for Aug17 - Aug30. If you read my previous post, this will be my 3rd attempt. Haven't been to the Valley since 2002. Anyone been on the slab approach / route lately? Still looking to fix two ropes to p4. Both ropes are 239' long. I know p1&2 are 260, might set up an intermediate anchor. Anybody climbing the route during that time frame? How's the spring? Also, I would appreciate any photos of the route, especially of the belays. If I send it this time, I'll definitely set up a trip report with a ton of photos and info. This route has been my nemisis!
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Jul 1, 2004 - 04:08pm
 
Before doing Half Dome in a day, I looked around for postings that listed times for various pitches on the route and didn't find a huge amount. So here's my time percentage for various points on the routes from when my partner and I climbed it. The listing is based on both climbers just getting to the top of the pitch.

P6 20%
P10 30%
P12 38%
P15 50%
P17 56%
P20 80%

We are better free climbers (including chimneys) than we are aid climbers and to save weight, we took minimal aid gear. So the zig zags took a while (straight forward, but slow). The pitches after the zig zags were slow due to fatigue and darkness (we started several hours after daybreak). There was a day party above us, and a party hauling below us, but neither slowed us down. The only jugging the second did was on the zig zags and we got by with one ropeman and a grigri (real jugs would have saved a bit of time here).

We only took single cams from tight hands up to a 3.5 friend (same as #3 camalot). The trigger wire on the 3.5 broke part way up, so our largest piece was a 3 friend (slightly larger than a #2 camalot). In the future, I would probably only take the #3 friend (skip the 3.5) and instead take more lighter, finger size cams to leave as pro on the aid pitches. I didn't aid off any stoppers, but I left a few behind as pro on the aid pitches. There is plenty of fixed gear on the aid pitches (bring lots of slings). I got by without a cam hook or any offsets (aliens or stoppers). I found some of the bolts on P22 pretty reachy and I'm 6'.

A #4 friend (#3.5 camalot) would protect the double crack on P17. There is an inside edge for the hands and a second crack for the outside foot, so you don't have to fist jam it. It is pretty secure for 5.9. There was not as much pro as I was expecting on the 5.9 squeeze on p14. In retrospect, the 5.7 airy chimney might have been as safe (and no doubt less strenuous).

We linked pitches and did some simul-climbing. P 2 & 3 link without simul-climbing. We linked 5 & 6 with simul climbing (the second had to simul through a short 5.9 pin scar section). From P6 we simul (watch rope drag) to the end of P 10. We used rope tension to pull the second up the bolt ladder as the leader lowered off on P10. We were going to simul out from Thank God Ledge on but darkness and fatigue precluded it. We also had some rope drag due to blocks right before the 21 anchor (after the 5.8 squeeze).

The spring at the base is running fine.
Hal

Trad climber
Ridgway, PA
Jun 3, 2004 - 07:52pm
 
I hope to be fixing the first pitches on Sunday the 6th or monday the 7th. Anyone been up there lately??? I got some excellent beta from Luke Taylor but I was wondering if I can be sure to find the spring/trickle/seep or whatever it's called running well enough to filter our water at the base instead of carrying our water up the slabs. Also, Luke mentioned a rockfall that happened last summer that took out some of the fixed ropes on the approach. I approached via the slabs two years ago and did not find it to be that bad. What is the deal now??? Is the slabs approach more difficult now??? I will be checking this message tomorrow,(FRIAY the 4th). Please respond before tomorrow at 5pm. After that I leave to catch my flight to Frisco.
Luke

Trad climber
CA
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    May 26, 2004 - 01:39pm
Bivi on P11 is actually not all that bad, if there's two of you and you're tired enough (although most likely you will have to pad out some of the holes/blocks to make it a little less uncomfortable). Plus by then you're actually on the face, it's a way more awesome place to wake up in.

The P6 bivi is sloping, but the rock is smooth- your call, but I'd rather go with the P11, even if it makes for a longer day. Main reason for this is when we were there, it was clear this P6 ledge had been hammered by rockfall (probably small, but still, there were recent scars and dust on the ledge). Remember that here, you're still on the shoulder and not on the face proper (although I'm not saying you're safe from anything on P11, it just seems/feels safer to me).

Finally, and following from Karl's post, everyone PLEASE respect the drip/seep at the base, yes it is often there late in the season, and a lot of climbers rely on it. Keep it clean.

Enjoy, it's an amazing route!
Hal

Trad climber
Ridgway, PA
May 25, 2004 - 06:47pm
 
I will be in the valley from June 5th. We plan on doing the N. West face first. Is the spring still running in the second week of June??? Any other beta of interest????
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
May 25, 2004 - 03:02pm
 
Pitch 11 looked pretty miserable. My friend has shared that ledge with another party (total of 4) and he lived, but didn't sleep. I think 1 person could sleep comfortably on 11, maybe. Pitch 6 ledge was pretty comfy. Just fill in low spots with clothes and the rope and enjoy. Big Sandy is very comfy to sleep on, but damn is it exposed! You'll love it when you get there!
hamid

Trad climber
Berkeley, California
May 25, 2004 - 10:38am
 
How bad are pitch 6 and pitch 11 bivies for 2 on this route? I hear 17 is real nice, but we might not make there on the first day.

thanks.

-Hamid
sfclimber

Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
May 19, 2004 - 03:48pm
 
I hope to fix the first pitches on May 28, starting the rest of the climb on the 29th. Might start a day earlier to avoid the crowds. See you there.
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
May 9, 2004 - 11:02pm
 
I don't think that you can make it from the 2nd pitch. Not that I measured it, but I remember the pitch lengths being about what Supertopo said on those two. Good luck!

Josh
Denied

Trad climber
Strabane, PA
May 7, 2004 - 12:51pm
 
I'm heading to The Valley from 21May - 31May.
Two questions:
1st, I know we'll have company, but are there any others out there that will be looking to climb The Regular NW Face of Half Dome while we're there? Just curious.
2nd, I've been on the route, without a success, twice now (long stories) I'm looking at fixing two ropes all the way to the top of p4. Usually I've only fixed to p3. One is 200', the other 228' Can the 220' make it from the top of p 2 to the ground? SuperTopo says, p1 160' and p2 100' P4 always takes awhile, so I'd like to have that in the bag the morning we head up. How accurate is the 160' and 100' and does that include for the rope line meandering?

Any beta would be appreciated, Thanks.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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    Apr 30, 2004 - 05:50pm
It is critical that you ABSOLUTELY MUST NOT TAKE A DUMP IN THE CHIMNEY BEHIND BIG SANDY LEDGE!!

This is where the Direct NW face route meets the regular route and it's no fun to climb that chimney if folks have been crapping in there.

Wall climbers should bring poop tubes or dry bags and day climbers (and folks who just tough it out on big sandy) should still take lightweight preparations in case nature calls.

Enjoy!

Karl
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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    Apr 29, 2004 - 12:24am
yes, the uprights on the cables are down till memorial day or so. for the moment the cables lie flat against the rock.


this is no biggie. it can actually be faster to get down right now if you have thick leather gloves and don't mind running down head first (let the cable run against you pants for a little extra friction.)

some friends did the reg route on half dome on sunday. route was clear. a little snow at the last anchor but no biggie.

the one thing to be concerned about right now: returning from the shoulder of half dome to the base is a little sketchy. big snowfield that drops to a steep slab to a 2000 foot cliff. use a belay for this section.

or do what most people do and just descend via the muir trail.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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    Apr 29, 2004 - 12:20am
yes, the uprights on the cables are down till memorial day or so. for the moment the cables lie flat against the rock.


this is no biggie. it can actually be faster to get down right now if you have thick leather gloves and don't mind running down head first (let the cable run against you pants for a little extra friction.)

some friends did the reg route on half dome on sunday. route was clear. a little snow at the last anchor but no biggie.

the one thing to be concerned about right now: returning from the shoulder of half dome to the base is a little sketchy. big snowfield that drops to a steep slab to a 2000 foot cliff. use a belay for this section.

or do what most people do and just descend via the muir trail.
sfclimber

Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
Apr 26, 2004 - 02:21pm
 
I seem to recall reading somewhere that the cables are permanent year round, but the posts to hold them up at waist height are removed (and possibly the wood 'step' slats too, not necessary for safe descent but make life easier).
Brit-waller

Trad climber
UK
Apr 25, 2004 - 09:52am
 
Hi,

Myself and another Brit partner are planning to climb regular north west face in late May. Any advice re. weather (especially what snow conditions have been this year and are now), temp's etc. appreciated. We have beta on the climbing, want any background info. We hope to do the route in a day, or have a chilly bivi on big sandy (no bags, mats etc). We expect the cables to be down - does this matter and make the descent difficult (we wont have haul bags)?

Thanx for info.
Couloir

Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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    Jan 27, 2004 - 11:09pm
Erich,

Half Dome is a very dicey climb at the end of March. Just getting to the base of the route means ascending some steep snowfields. All of the ledges will be covered with snow and ice, as will several of the cracks. The end of March is also the stormiest time in the valley. That time last year was the start of one month of near daily rain and snow. You would be better doing Washington's Column or Leaning Tower or El Cap. And the cables stay there year round but are not mounted up in the winter so you have to pick them up and hike down icy and snowy slabs.
Southern Man

climber
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    Jan 27, 2004 - 01:42pm
I got a documentary movie of the route being free climbed (titled oddly enough - Free Climb). Got it at Chessler Books and a whole bunch of mag. articles on the route. I guess you have Scott Ghiz's pitch by pitch description.
Whatever

Trad climber
Strabane, PA
Jan 27, 2004 - 01:31pm
 
Looking for pics of the route. I've been on it twice. Once to the bivy at 6 and once to the belay at 8. Don't ask, it'll get sent this year! Don't care with who, when, whatever! I've searched the web pretty extensively, got what was good, but sitting here in the dreary weather of the NorthEast could always use some more. If you're interested in swapping info / ideas or want to hook up at Seneca or The New to climb, drop me a line. Looking to head out to The Valley in Jul, Sep and any other months I can convince someone into going.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Jan 16, 2004 - 03:56pm
 
Check out

http://www.halfdomecam.com

See also

http://www.bigwalls.net/climb/rescue.html

There's some description of what it was like to get to the base (of the South Face) suggests what it might be like to come around from the hiker trail. Besides, it's a good read.
Matt

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
Jan 16, 2004 - 12:30pm
 
I'll bet you can track down info on the cables through the Mountain Shop in the Valley, or through the NPS if that fails. Last year at that time there was lots of snow on the route- even into April if i recall, because there was a series of Spring storms and that face doesn't get much sun until the sun moves a bit to the North. Expect to find a lot of snow at the base, plan for a huge time consuming pain in the ass, both on the approach & getting back around to the base, and make some back-up plans just in case.


Would I want to do that climb in the early part of the season if there wasn't an early season warm spell to dry the Valley up some? Nope...

But hey, have fun.
http://www.halfdomecam.com/
http://www.yosemite.org/vryos/index.htm
Southern Man

climber
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    Jan 15, 2004 - 09:14am
Read the last post on this beta page by Scott G. and then go to his web site (use the "Search Internet for Beta") for more useful info. Scott did the route in May and reported pretty chilly conditions in the a.m. I think you will be rolling the dice regarding weather for the time of year you plan on climbing (check rainfall amounts and temps for Yos. on the Supertopo web site). Pacific storms roll in with regularity during this time of year, so come prepared. On the other hand, it's possible to hit a clear weather window and have the NW face all to yourselves. Three climbers (at least in the case of me and my regular two climbing partners) will slow you down some which means that doing the RNWF in a day could be a challenge. So if it takes you more than one day, I assume you'll be hauling and this route isn't the easiest for hauling (again read beta on Scott's web site). My last bit of advice is to give alot of thought to your approach, it can make all the difference in success or failure.
Erich Krueck

Trad climber
Huntington Beach, CA
Jan 15, 2004 - 02:39am
 
Hey! Well I have some questions I was hoping someone could help me with. Two friends and I were hoping to climb HD. The only time we can all make it is the last week in March '04 I’m not overly familiar with Yosemite's Climate, what kind of temperature range could we be expecting? Would this be a dangerous time of year to do it? Also, for the descent are the cables usually up that time of year and if not what would be the best way out? Any info would be greatly appreciated. THANKS
Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
Oct 2, 2003 - 08:41pm
 
The incubation period for giardia, cryptosporidium and campylobacter is 2 - 12 days.
Neil

Gym climber
Here and there
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    Oct 1, 2003 - 11:41am
The spring is in good shape. I'd filter though. I drank 10+ liters from it last week without filtering and am running to the throne 10-20 times a day. Not pretty.

Neil
Christian

Trad climber
Salzburg, Austria
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    Aug 8, 2003 - 10:34am
Totally agree about going light. In the Alps, this is a good long one day route from base to base.

If you can read German, get more beta about a one day ascent at http://www.bergsteigen.at/berichte/touren/halfdome/halfdome.html, plus nice pictures.

Greetings from Austria!
Southern Man

climber
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    Aug 8, 2003 - 09:25am
When people say the approach is the crux and to go light and fast, do not and I repeat do not underestimate what they are saying. The slabs approach is tough, way tough especially with 60+ pound packs. It took us six long, hard hours to get to the base and we were WAY tired when we got there. I can really understand why some people don't even attempt the route after doing the approach. We were pretty sure the approach was going to be a haul and were in good climbing and hiking shape from 8 months of running and training for this route but we should have gone way lighter with the packs. And the Mist/Muir Trail approach (8.2 miles) isn't much easier. Also, if you opt. to take the Mist/Muir trail approach, it looks like getting from the shoulder to the base of the climb takes some not so obvious trails. On the positive side the Supertopo directions for the Slabs were super accurate.
Matt

Trad climber
Jun 18, 2003 - 12:33pm
 
The slabs approach is the crux.

There were 4 parties of 2 on Monday 6/16 and 4 parties of 2 starting up on the next day as well- if you are planning to this route on a weekend you might want to be early!

The ST is awesome for this route.
You don't need nuts at all.
Bring a 3 and a 3-1/2 cam.

What a great day!
Jason Archibald

Trad climber
MD
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    Jun 12, 2003 - 10:55am
I climbed HD for my second time on May 17-19, 2003 with my pal Curtis.

Jer, the chimney pitches have plenty of smaller cracks in them and pro is no problem. I would aid the diehedral on the left on pitch 12, then tension travese back to the chimney. You won't need anything larger than a #3 Camalot for pitches 12-15. The squeeze slot on pitch 20 after thank god ledge could take a #5 Camalot, but that's the only time you would use it on the entire route.

The snow at the base extended all the way down to the normal bivvy spots, so we slept just below that. The spring was running like a small river from the snowpack! There was some water in the chimney pitches (12-15) and on the double crack pitch (17), which was too bad since this is some of the best free climbing on the route.

Pitch 22 had a lot of water on the last half of it, which made the french freeing (or is it freedom freeing now? heh) along the headwall MUCH more diffifult. And pitch 23, we couldn't believe it, was entirely covered with snow. It was a class 3 snow ramp! My buddy nearly dead-manned a #4 Camalot as pro! :)

Incredible climb, despite the water on the route it was much better than the first time I did it.
Jer

Trad climber
Rochester MN
May 12, 2003 - 06:35pm
 
The whole route looks do-able for where my ability is at! Just feel sketch about the squeezes up high. I'm trying to figure out a fast not so scary way to get through those sections. Does any one know the dimetions of the chimneys? How deep? How wide? Would a big cam be able to be slid along for a consant toprope on lead?
Luke

Trad climber
CA
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    Mar 19, 2003 - 01:34pm
Jer-

I hiked up to the base of HD on the 12th march from mirror lake. You'll find a few patches of snow on the way up, no big deal really, and there was a lot of ice covering the last fixed line- although most of it came down when tugged on it. scary. I would not recommend being halfway up those slabs when the sun gets on them (midday-ish?). Also, the 'sloping bivi', p6, was obviously covered in snow as was the 'hotel' ledge half way up the Direct, not to mention the large snowfield across the base (i dont think this is really a problem though). Also noticed some seepage from the chimneys, p13 maybe. Hope this helps- enjoy your climb!!

Also, thanks to whoever added the two red fixed lines!
Jer

Trad climber
Rochester MN
Mar 17, 2003 - 02:59pm
 
Hello all!

I'm heading out to the valley mar 23 and have just a couple of Questions;
1) Will the base of the regular route on half dome be reachable?
2) What are some bench mark times to reach certain points on the route to do it car to car in a day (24hrs)?
3) What would be a few cracks be that emulate what the zig zags are like?
I can onsight any 5.10 and plan on simo-ing anything less than that. I am from Minnesota but this will be my 10th year climbing in the valley so I am familiar with the terrain!
All beta appreciated!!!

Cheers!!
jung

Big Wall climber
Subaru wagon
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    Sep 19, 2002 - 04:38am
I climbed this absolutely stellar route in June 02, it was the most enjoyable big wall that I have ever done, I think mainly because it had so much free climbing at a comfortable level and there arent many(any?) pitches that are yosemite sand bags.
We climbed the route as a team of 3, one leading, one cleaning and one jugging a free line with a seperate rack and a back pack with our bivy gear and a mini rack to supplement the leader with gear placed on the last pitch. We had an 8mm tag line, and two lead lines, with three 60m ropes we were able to fix the first five pitches just barely. #2 and 3linked with rope stretch. The chimney pitches can be almost completed in one 60m pitch, this saved us quite a bit of time, however you do need some wide gear for the belay at the end (like a number 3 and 4 camalot). I do not recommend this if you are hauling because this belay area would really suck if you were and may slow you down more than doing the regular pitches.

I tried this wall as my first wall and failed miserably cause we were hauling too much sh#t which slowed us down to a crawl at the start (really bad hauling). This time we only had one backpack between three, 3 liters of water per day(at the time we climbed the route was in the shade until 2 pm) and had the most enjoyable big wall so far i highly recommend going light on this one.
TK

Intermediate climber
Subaru wagon
Aug 22, 2002 - 03:25pm
 
Did the climb in two days, spending 1 night on Big Sandy. The temps in The Valley were in the 90s but felt somewhat cold wearing pants and a windproof jacket on the dome. The temp. change is pretty drastic and the winds can cool things down pretty quickly. The spring was still flowing and filtered all the water I needed. All I can say is that a mid-August ascent was a perfect time to do this classic.
Austin

Intermediate climber
Subaru wagon
May 15, 2002 - 12:29pm
 
Climbed the route 5/11-5/12, entirely dry except for last pitch, approached via the slabs on Friday PM where we found all but the last two fixed ropes in place and proceeded to bushwhack to the base, quite heinous. We left gear at the base and returned to retrieve it on Sunday after descending the cable route. There are several snow slopes to cross on this gear retrieval which would be quite treacherous to cross anytime other than in the afternoon after they have softened up so plan accordingly. Excellent route, easily run in two days with minimal bivi gear.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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    May 1, 2002 - 01:34pm
RETREAT BETA

At any point on the climb, you can retreat by rappelling the route. There are some sections like Thanksgiving Ledge and Double Crack Pitch that will require a mixture of rappeling and belayed climbing.

About two thirds of the anchors are fixed with either bolts, pitons, or fixed gear. On all the other anchors, you will have to leave your own gear.

Here is a list of anchors that are NOT fixed:

12, 16, 17, 19, 20, 21,
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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    Mar 26, 2002 - 11:39am
Half Dome is crowded from june to october. The best strategy is to show up at the base with an extra day to wait in line and allow for parties to get high on the route. temps in august can occassionaly be scorching in the afternoons but for the most part, half dome is a cool place to climb year round. A portaledge is overkill if you are planning to do the route in two days. if you are planning to spend more than that a portaledge would be nice. however, keep in mind that the approach to half dome is grueling and any extra weight will suck. also, the hauling is terrible on this route and the porta ledge will need to be packed inside the haulbag or it will get thrashed. i would reccomend training until you get fast enough to do the route in one night (bivy on big sandy). its much more fun that way.

good luck!
Michael

Novice climber
Mill Valley, CA
Mar 26, 2002 - 11:34am
 
We are planning to climb the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome next summer via big wall tactics (3days). What time of summer is best to avoid the crowds? We don't mind a little heat as long as your feet aren't on fire.
Is August too hot and are the crowd down? Would a portaledge be way overkill or would it be nice to chill on night 1 or if Big Sandy is too crowded? I am also wondering if the mandatory free climbing sections protect well (anything 5.7+ or harder).
Em Holland and Bruce Bindner

Advanced climber
Mill Valley, CA
Aug 12, 2001 - 01:28pm
 
NW FACE OF HALF DOME

In June 2001, 3 new bolts were placed on NW Face of Half Dome to supplement or replace existing old 1/4" bolts at three bivy ledges. All drilling was done by hand.

P6 belay anchor, placed one new 3/8" Rawl 5-piece stainless bolt on the face above bivy ledge, just to left of main crack. This bolt is positioned to either back up the existing fixed pins/tied off block 15-20 ft below the bivy ledge, which currently serves as the only reasonable hauling anchor. With long slings or rope it can also back up the marginal bolt and gear placements which anchor a bivy on the sloping ledges.

P11 belay anchor, placed one new 3/8" Rawl 5-piece stainless bolt on right side of ledge, replacing two old 1/4" bolts. Removed existing 1/4" stud (no hanger, damaged threads), and existing 1/4" x 1.25" splitshaft buttonhead with Leeper hanger. Given the manky appearance of this old bolt, it was surprisingly difficult to remove. Patched hole with rock dust & Superglue.

P17 belay anchor (Big Sandy Ledges), placed one new 3/8" Rawl 5-piece stainless bolt on face at base of the left-hand crack starting P18 for use as a bivy/belay anchor and a hauling anchor. Note: there was an existing, relatively new 3/8" stainless bolt on a large, but apparently detached block at back of Big Sandy Ledges above where Direct NW Face route joins in. The hanger on this bolt was loose (spun easily), and the bolt itself could be unscrewed with finger pressure. We tightened this bolt, however we would recommend that subsequent ascent parties keep an eye out for potential loosening of either the bolt or the block it is attached to.

NOTE FROM CHRIS MCNAMARA
Em and Holland did a great service which all climbers should be thankful for. To find out how you can replace bolts, visit www.safeclimbing.org
Half Dome - Regular Northwest Face 5.12 or 5.9 C1 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The Regular Northwest Face.
Photo: Mark Kroese
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.