Snake Dike, 5.7R

Fairview Dome, 5.9

Astroman, 5.11c

Muir Wall, El Cap

Canyonlands, 5.11

Lover's Leap, 5.7

Muir Wall, El Cap

High Sierra, 5.10

Red Rocks, 5.10a

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	Russell Mitrovich, on the first pitch of Mt. Whitney's East Buttress.
	Photo: Chris McNamara

High Sierra Rock Climbing Info

Bordered by a great agricultural area on one side and an inhospitable desert on the other, California's Sierra Nevada is the highest mountain range in the contiguous United States, and some say it is the most beautiful. It has almost everything a climber desires: rugged peaks, glaciers, and splendid, isolated chunks of granite. And these attractions are set in a lovely locale of lake basins, streams, and high meadows. The rock is generally good, the weather during the summer months excellent, and the access is easy. What more could a climber want? If there is any disadvantage, it lies in the hordes of people who have recently found the range to their liking. The John Muir Trail, which runs the length of the High Sierra, is a very crowded corridor in mid-summer, yet the climber who is willing to wander just a few miles from it will find untrammeled lake basins at the bases of peaks that see fewer than ten ascents a season.

– Steve Roper

High Sierra Climbing Skills
You need a solid base of trad climbing skills to lead a High Sierra route. Most climbs will involve a little bit of every technique from face climbing and stemming to hand cracks and ever the occasional chimney. Build confidence with these techniques on multipitch climbs at a granite area like Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite Valley, or Lover's Leap.

When choosing a climb, keep in mind that in the High Sierra, most climbers lead at least a number grade lower than their cragging ability. For example, if you lead 5.9 trad at the crags, you will probably only be comfortable leading 5.8 or even 5.7 in the High Sierra. This is because you are generally weaker at high altitude but also because you must not fall on Sierra climbs. Because of the ledgy terrain, even short falls are serious and rescue is usually at least a day away.

High Sierra Non-Climbing Skills
Technical climbing skills are only a small requirement for High Sierra routes. Routefinding skills, hiking fitness, and general "mountain sense" are just as important. Approaches typically involve at least a few miles of hiking off a main trail. Our High Sierra Climbing guidebook features the most detailed info ever provided for these approaches. However, you will still need some basic orienteering skills to navigate through cross-country sections. Also, High Sierra climbs ascend complex and confusing terrain that demands careful attention to the topo and some intuition. Important Tip: on the approach, keep the topo handy and study the route from a distance. Do not wait until you are at the base to look at the topo. At that point, much of the upper route will probably be hidden and it may be hard to orient yourself. Almost all climbs require a substantial approach at high elevation. If out of shape, you may be too tired to climb by the time you reach the base of the route. All High Sierra Climbing routes can be climbed car-to-car in a day by a fast team. Most parties, however, will prefer to camp near the base which means you will also need all the requisite backcountry camping skills.

Climbing Gear
Climb light. Carrying a heavy pack and rack at altitude will slow you down and, more importantly, remove the fun. Carry only what you need (but don't skimp on food, water, and a rain shell).

The typical rack includes: one 9-10mm rope, 1 set of nuts, 1-2 sets of cams .6-3", 10 slings, 20 lightweight carabiners, belay device, lightweight harness. For the High Sierra, slings are better than quickdraws because they are more versatile. A wandering pitch you will want a sling on every piece to reduce rope drag and on straight up and down pitches you can convert your slings into makeshift quickdraws.

50m ropes are preferred because they are lighter than 60m ropes and after 50m it is usually impossible to communicate with the belayer. (All the topos in the High Sierra Select guidebook are set for 50m ropes, but we tell you where you can link pitches with a 60m rope). A retreat rope may be helpful for some climbs. However, sometimes it is better to rappel with just one rope because long rappels in the High Sierra often result in stuck ropes or pulling loose blocks down on yourself.

	Banner Peak.
	Photo: Jody Langford

Non-Climbing Gear
Sun hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, warm hat, water-resistant lightweight jacket (don't bring a heavy gore-tex jacket), water filter or iodine tablets, and a pencil (so you can make comments and suggestions on the SuperTopos and send us feedback!). Don't forget the trekking poles! These indispensable companions will save your knees and help you move faster. They also make a great "rudder" when glissading. Get the lightweight kind that collapse really small (we like Leki poles). Also, hike in using lightweight approach shoes. Remember, you climb carrying your approach shoes so don't bring heavy hiking boots. Definitely bring a headlamp (lightweight LED models are best). An ice ax and crampons may be necessary for climbs on Temple Crag.

For a good backcountry camping gear list, visit the Sierra Mountain Center web site.

Good First High Sierra Climbs
The following list will introduce you to the climbing in the High Sierra. All these climbs are in our High Sierra rock climbing guidebook. We encourage you to check out the FREE SuperTopo of Red Dihedral to get psyched for a Sierra adventure.

Good Climbs for Returning High Sierra Climbers
Once warmed up to Sierra climbing, you may want to expand your tick list to the climbs listed below. All of these climbs are part of High Sierra Rock Climbing guidebook.

Leave No Trace
Just in case you haven't heard already: do pack out all trash, don't crap near water, do stay on established trails when possible, don't burn wood above 10,000 feet, do camp in established sites.

	The third pitch of North Arête, Bear Creek Spire.
	Photo: Chris McNamara

High Sierra Essentials
The following is an overview of the essential High Sierra info.

Getting There
Car Travel
Almost all climbs are accessed off of U.S. 395 and the small Eastern Sierra towns of Lone Pine, Independence, Big Pine, Bishop, Tom's Place, and Bridgeport.

Below are the general driving times (in hours) to the Eastern Sierra (times vary depending which trailhead you are heading for):

Tuolumne Meadows: 1-3, Yosemite Valley: 2-4, Reno: 2-4, Los Angeles: 4-6, San Francisco: 5-7, Las Vegas: 4-6, Salt Lake City: 9-11, Boulder: 18-20

Air Travel
Reno/Tahoe Airport is the closest airport to most High Sierra climbs. From there, you will need to rent a car and drive 2-3.5 hours to your climbing destination. You can also fly into Los Angeles, Oakland, San Francisco, Sacramento, or Fresno. Each of these places requires 5-7 hour drive to the East Side. Info on these airports.

Bus Travel
The Eastern Sierra has little bus service or public transportation. The only town that can be reached by bus is Mammoth Lakes via the Mammoth Shuttle (760-934-3030).

When to Climb
Almost everyone climbs in the High Sierra between June and October. From November through April, the High Sierra is pounded with snow from big Pacific storms.

Note: Below, the snow conditions are listed for an average snow year. Most snow years are not average and the projections below will be way off if it has been a heavy or light snow year. Your best bet is to search for your climb on the route beta page to see what the conditions are like. If there is nothing there, ask a question in the forum.

May – Only in low snow years will climbs be easily accessible. In general, most of the approaches will be snow-covered and many of the access roads may not be plowed. May is mostly dry but expect a few storms. There are no crowds in May.

June – Aside from a rare storm, June is usually dry with warm temps and nice long days. Most of the access roads are plowed but there will still be snow on most approaches. Thunderstorms begin to develop so keep a close eye on the weather. The crowds start showing at the end of June and it becomes more competitive to get overnight camping permits. Charlotte Dome and Temple Crag are usually the first climbs to easily access.

July and August – Prime Sierra climbing weather. Temperatures are hot at the trailheads but perfect on the climbs. This is also prime thunderstorm season so watch the weather closely. There are lots of crowds and it is competitive for overnight camping permits (get reservations at least a month in advance).

September – Still great climbing conditions but the nights are cool. Some north-facing routes may be uncomfortably cold in the shade. The crowds start to thin out.

October – Shorter days and cold nights mean less people. Climbing in the shade is no fun. Weather is mostly dry but the first winter storm can arrive late in the month. Easy to get overnight camping permits.

November – Frigid nights and short days keep most people out of the High Sierra. Winter storms begin to arrive more frequently. A rare time to get some solitude before the heavy snow sets in.

December-April – Got skis? Frequent winter storms and icy temperatures make the High Sierra only accessible to those that enjoy suffering. In exceptionally dry years, during a warm spell, you may be able to run up one of the peaks in-a-day in December.

	Sarah Felchlin low on Mt. Russell's Fishhook Arete
	Photo: Chris McNamara

Current Road and Weather Conditions
General High Sierra Weather — daily report
Mammoth Lakes, CA — daily report of temperatures in Mammoth Lakes
Bishop, CA — daily report of temperatures in Bishop
Road conditions — in spring, see if the road to you trailhead is plowed

Thunderstorms and Lightning Strikes
The High Sierra has some of the best weather of any alpine rock climbing area on earth. That said, note that the High Sierra is still in a massive mountain range and receives severe thunderstorms and lightning throughout the summer. Ceck the weather before you climb and scope the retreat route beforehand. Most thunderstorms originate from the west, so if you are climbing an east-facing route, you may not see thunderstorms until they are on top of you. Always carry rain shells.

Lightning tends to hit high points, trees, and water, but will hit low points next to high rocks, flat areas near tall trees, and dry land in areas with lakes. Know how to perform CPR. Unlike with nearly any other type of injury that stops the heart, electrical shock victims can suddenly awaken even after extended CPR, so CPR should be continued indefinitely.

NOLS Backcountry Lightning Safety Guidelines by John Gookin (396K)

Altitude Sickness
It takes a few days for most people to adjust to the rarefied air. Drink lots of water and don't run around too fast if you're just coming up from low elevations. It's a good idea to camp at least one night at the trailhead and a better idea to spend a few days cragging at high elevation. Tuolumne Meadows is the best place for high altitude cragging. If you can't make it there check out some the Eastern Sierra summer cragging areas.

Lone Pine and Whitney Portal Essentials
Nearby Peaks: Mt. Russell, Mt. Whitney

Getting There: 57 miles south of Bishop. View Map

Gear: Elevation (125 N. Main Street (Highway 395); 760-876-4560) sells climbing and mountaineering gear and rents crampons and bear canisters. Their web site has great page for local resources.

Groceries: Joseph's Bi-Rite Market

Restaurants: The Pizza Factory (301 S Main Street; 760-876-4707) has inexpensive pizza and salad bar. Mt. Whitney Restaurant (Corner of U.S. 395 and Whitney Portal Road; 760-876-5751) is open 7 days a week and serves Buffalo, Ostrich, and Veggie Burgers. Totem Cafe (131 S Main Street; 760-876-1120) has American-style cuisine and patio dining. Season's Restaurant (227 S Main Street; 760-876-8927) is pricy, but serves good food and large portions. PJ's Bake and Broil (446 S Main Street; 760-876-5796) is the classic diner in town.

Services at Whitney Portal: Don't miss the hamburgers and french fries at the Whitney Portal Store (760-876-0030). The Whitney Portal Store also sells tourist stuff, maps, books, and they have a great deal on bear canisters, which you can also rent.

Trailhead camping: It is often a good idea to camp at the Whitney Portal before starting your climb. You will get an early start on the hike and start acclimatizing (Whitney Portal is at 8,300 feet). There are ten walk-in sites near the trailhead (follow signs to "Hiker Overnight Camping") reserved for hikers/climbers that cost $6 a night and are first-come, first-served. You can also stay at the Whitney Portal Campground but will have to shell out $14 a night and reserve your site in advance. Go here for more info: www.r5.fs.fed.us/inyo/vvc/cmpgrnds.htm#LonePine

Independence and Onion Valley Essentials
Nearby Peaks: Charlotte Dome

Getting There: 42 miles south of Bishop on US 395. View Map

Groceries: There is a small market in town but your best bet is to at Joseph's in Lone Pine or one of the three markets in Bishop.

Restaurants: not much to choose from but the Rocking Rhino has good pizza, beer, and a nice atmosphere.

Trailhead camping: Onion Valley Campground is located 9,200 feet, costs $11/night (reservations recommended by calling 877-444-6777) with picnic tables and piped water.

Big Pine and Big Pine Creek Essentials
Nearby Peaks: Temple Crag

Getting There: 15 miles south of Bishop. View Map

Groceries: Carroll's Market and the Mobil Station are limited and have the only groceries in town. Stock up in Bishop, which is only 15 miles north on US 395.

Restaurants: Uncle Bud's (120 South Main Street) has pizzas, salads, and sandwiches and the Country Kitchen (181 South Main Street) serves diner breakfasts.

Services at Big Pine Creek: Glacier Lodge (11 Miles West of US 395; 760-938-2837) has cabins for $70/night that sleep 2-9, a general store, and a restaurant. $4 showers are available between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. Glacier Pack Train (0.5 mile east of Glacier Lodge; 760-938-2538) provides pack trips into the backcountry.

Trailhead camping: Big Pine Creek Campground and Upper Sage Flat Campground are located along Glacier Lodge Road at 7,700 feet and have picnic tables, restrooms, and water. Both are $13/night (reservations recommended by calling 877-444-6777). If you are up for hiking in a mile to First Falls, there is a free walk-in campground with picnic tables, fire rings, and pit toilets (your must get your own water from the creek).

	Joey Papazian climbing the great 5.8 hand crack on the sixth pitch of Red Dihedral.
	Photo: Chris McNamara

Bishop and South Lake Essentials
Nearby Peaks: Mt. Goode

Getting There: 2.5 hours east of Yosemite Valley (when Tioga Pass is open), 5 hours north of Los Angeles, and 6 hours east of San Francisco. View Map

Groceries: Vons (North Main Street) is the gigantic grocery store located next to K-mart, Joseph's BI-Rite Market is in the center of town, across from Kava, and Manor Market (3100 West Line Street) has a great beer and wine selection as well as a deli and basic groceries.

Restaurants and Cafes: Spellbinder's Books (124 South Main Street; 760- 873-4511) is not only a cool bookstore, but also serves the best coffee in town at the coffee bar in the back of the store. The Bishop Grill (across from Wilson's Eastside Sports) serves greasy and tasty diner food- breakfast is great. Jack's Waffle Shop (super greasy) and Inyo Country Store (Academy Street) also serve breakfast. Kava (next to Wilson's) is the local climber hang and serves coffee and tasty scones and muffins. Schat's Bakkery (763 North Main Street) has every type of pastry and excellent sandwiches and bread. Western Thai Kitchen (930 North Main Street; 760- 872-3246) serves tasty Thai food as well as burgers and fries- local favorite. For Mexican food there are three options: At Amigos (285 North Main Street; 760-872-2189) try the Carne Asada, Taqueria Las Palmas (136 East Line Street; 760-873-4337) has awesome burritos, and La Casita (175 South Main Street; 760-873-4828) has okay food and a full bar (that means margaritas!). Whiskey Creek (524 North Main Street; 760 873-7174) has a great bar with yummy salads and pub food and a sit down dining room with fancier choices such as filet mignon and ahi. Upper Crust Pizza has some of the best pizza we've tasted- try the "Illusian."

Other: The Rubber Room (175-B North Main Street; 888-395-ROCK) is the best place anywhere for quality resoles. There is a Bank of America, Washington Mutual, and Union Bank of California in town. The Bishop Twin Theatre (760-873-3575) has two screens and new movies weekly. Galen and Barbara Rowell's Mountain Light Gallery (106 South Main Street; 760-873-7700) has beautiful photography of the east side and is definitely worth a visit.

The Eastern Sierra MountainFest is a new annual festival dedicated to celebrating the mountain experience. Each year the event has a fantastic lineup of world-renowned presenters such as Peter Croft, Lynn Hill, Chris Bonington, etc. as well as panel discussions, booksignings, live music, a trade show, and catered cocktail parties. Visit the web site for more information.

Services at South Lake: There is a general store in Habbegers, which is 3 miles from Highway 168 on the way to South Lake.

Trailhead camping: Willow Campground is located at 9,000 feet on the road to South Lake and has sites for $13/night. Your need to get water from the creek.

For a great map of downtown Bishop that includes restaurants click here.

Tom's Place and Rock Creek Essentials
Nearby Peaks: Bear Creek Spire

Getting There: 24 miles north of Bishop. View Map

Groceries: There is a little grocery store at Tom's Place, but for major groceries head south (20 minutes) to Bishop or north (15 minutes) to Mammoth Lakes. Bishop has three large stores (see Bishop "Groceries") and Mammoth Lakes has a Vons (off Old Mammoth Road).

Restaurants: Tom's Place Resort (right off US 395) has lodging as well as a restaurant and bar (next to the store). For a more extensive selection cruise down the grade to Bishop (see Bishop "Restaurants") or up to Mammoth Lakes. In Mammoth the places to go are: Roberto's Mexican Cafe (271 Old Mammoth Road; 760-934-3667) for great Mexican food and strong margaritas, Shogun (452 Old Mammoth Road; 760-934-3970) for fresh sushi, Good Life Cafe (126 Old Mammoth Road; 760-934-1734) for healthy food, Bergers (6118 Minaret Road; 760-934-6622) has awesome burgers and fries, and many more restaurants.

Services at Rock Creek: Rock Creek Lodge (Rock Creek Road; 877-935-4170 or 760-935-4170) has a small store and a restaurant (known for its pies!)

Trailhead camping: Mosquito Flat Trailhead Campground is a free walk-in campground only for persons with an overnight backcountry permit for the following day, and the stay limit is only one night. The campground is located across the bridge that leads to Eastern Brook Lakes. There are 12 other campgrounds to choose from between Tom's Place and Mosquito Flat that cost around $15 a night. Most of these campgrounds do not require reservations. For more information, visit: www.rockcreeklake.com/camping/

Bridgeport and Twin Lakes Essentials
Nearby Peaks: Incredible Hulk

Getting There: 90 miles north of Bishop. View Map

Groceries: There is a small market in town.

Restaurants: Hays Street Cafe (21 Hays Street; (760- 932-7141) is the diner at the far end of town. There a number of other cafes and restaurants in town.

Services at Twin Lakes: The Twin Lakes Resort (760-932-7751) has a small store and a restaurant that serves great burgers.

Trailhead camping: Mono Village Campground (760-932-7071) at 7,100 feet is $!2/night. Lower Twin Lakes Campground (760-932-7070) is at 7,000 feet and $10/night. Honeymoon Flat Campground (760-932-7070) is at 7,000 feet and $10/night.

Backcountry Camping Permits
If camping in the backcountry, you need a permit, which can be picked up at one of the ranger stations listed below (sorry, no mail order permits). A quota system is in place in the summer and fall which, means only a limited number of permits are issued each day. Of this number, 25-40% are available on a walk-in basis for free at the ranger station and 60-75% of the permits can be reserved in advance for a $3-10 fee. Most of the classic Sierra climbs are accessed off popular trails where permits are in high demand, especially from June to August. During this time, you may need to reserve your permit more than a month in advance. If you show up for a walk-in permit, don't be surprised if you are denied a permit.

Ranger Stations
Inyo National Forest (permit reservations 760-873-2483)
Popular peaks: Mt. Whitney, Mt. Russell, Temple Crag, Palisades, Mt. Goode, Bear Creek Spire, Laurel Mountain, Clyde Minaret.
Mt. Whitney Ranger Station (640 S. Main Street, Lone Pine; 760-876-6200)
White Mountain Ranger Station (798 N. Main Street, Bishop; 760-873-2500)
Mammoth Ranger Station (2500 Main Street, Mammoth Lakes; 760-924-5500)
Mono Basin Scenic Area Visitor Center (On US 395, Lee Vining; 760-647-3044)

Toiyabe National Forest/Hoover Wilderness (permit reservations; 760-932-7070)
Popular peaks: Matterhorn Peak, Incredible Hulk
Bridgeport Ranger Station (On US 395, 1/4 mile south of Bridgeport; 760-932-7070)

Kings Canyon National Park (trail conditions - permit reservations; 559-565-3708)
Popular peaks: Charlotte Dome
Road's End Wilderness Permit Station (located at Road's End)

Bears
Every year the bears seem to get smarter and more aggressive. If you do not take precautions, then YOUR CAR WILL BE BROKEN INTO. Bears are active both at the trailhead parking areas and popular camping areas in the backcountry. Learn more about bears.

Bears at the trailhead parking areas
While the Whitney and Onion Valley Trailheads currently have the worst problems, all Sierra trailheads experience bear break ins. If you have any food or anything smelling like food in your car it will be broken into. If you are lucky they break a window. If you are unlucky, they will peel the upper part of the door down causing thousands of dollars in body damage to your car. However, even if your car is free of food, a bear may break into it just because he sees enough clutter (bags, backpacks, clothes, etc). For this reason, it is essential to clear out your car as much as possible before you reach the trailhead and put any loose items in the trunk. Make the car look empty. Food lockers are provided at the trailhead but they are often full and not always secure so don't plan on using them for more than a night.

Bears in the backcountry
A bear's natural habitat is the forests and shrublands below 8,000 feet (2,438 meters), but they will frequently roam above these elevations in order to steal food from backpackers. Don't even thing about "bear bagging" your food (the bears figured this one out) or sleeping with your food (a backpacker has been mauled by a bear). The only way to protect your food is in a bear canister. These large black plastic containers are bulky, heavy, and a pain in the ass to deal with. However, they are also the only way to protect your food from a bear and are mandatory in many popular backcountry areas. Bear canisters can be rented for between $5 and $10 per week from any ranger station as well as the Whitney Portal Store. To own a bear canister, you will need to fork over $80 at a ranger station or you can get one for the great deal of $57.25 (shipped) at the Whitney Portal Store.

	A marmot chimneying with Upper Boy Scout Lake in the background.
	Photo: Sarah Felchlin

Marmots and Mosquitos
Above 11,000 feet, the marmots are more of a problem than the bears. These fury little critters act cute, but if you drop your guard for a minute they will devour your food with the grace and speed of a garbage disposal. Hang all your food and anything scented (toothpaste, sunscreen, garbage) from a large boulder or, better yet, bring a bear canister (for rent at the ranger stations).

During a one month period around June and July, the mosquitos are so dense that even repellent may not prevent bites. Their arrival varies from year to year, area to area and depends on the snow year. Come prepared (especially if you are camping) with long pants, long sleeves, and DEET repellant and ask rangers and the SuperTopo forum what the current mosquito conditions are like.

Climbing Guides
- Sierra Mountain Center (174 West Line Street, Bishop; 760-873-8526). They guide just about every classic climb in the High Sierra and every climb contained in the High Sierra Climbing SuperTopo guidebook. Be sure to check out their great web site which is loaded with photos, route descriptions, slide shows, and extensive gear lists for most classic High Sierra climbs.

- Sierra Mountain Guides - 148 Willow St, Bishop; 877-423-2546). They teach and guide all aspects of climbing in the rock, ice, and alpine realms, as well as backcountry skiing, ski mountaineering, avalanche education and mountain trekking.

Climbing Gear
There are two great climbing shops on the East Side that have everything you need for any climbing or backpacking adventure: Wilson's Eastside Sports (224 North Main Street, Bishop; 760-873-7520) and Mammoth Mountaineering (3189 Main St, Mammoth Lakes; 888-395-3951).

East Side Summer Cragging Areas
First-rate cragging abounds on the East Side. It is a good idea to crag at high elevation before climbing a High Sierra route to both acclimatize and get comfortable on sierra granite. The areas listed below are between 8,000 and 10,000 feet and are climbable from May-October. There are a number of other crags and boulders at lower elevations such as the Buttermilks, Happy Boulders, and Owens River Gorge. These areas are too hot in the summer.

Whitney Portal: Great climbing... if you climb 5.10 or harder. The rock and lines are as good as Yosemite and present a mixture of splitter cracks and face moves on 80-degree white granite walls. The season is spring and fall and unfortunately there is not a good guidebook to the area.

Cardinal Pinnacle: Another great area... if you climb 5.10 or harder. The fine-grained granite has numerous edges and splitter cracks. The routes are all 3-4 pitches and end on a cool summit. The guidebook is Bishop Area Rock Climbs by Marty Lewis.

Rock Creek/Iris Slab: Rock Creek has excellent (hard) bouldering along the river and super fun sport climbs on perfect granite edges (there are not many routes under 5.10). Iris Slab has more easy and moderate climbs. The guidebook is Bishop Area Rock Climbs by Marty Lewis.

Dike Wall and Crystal Crag: Located above beautiful alpine lakes and easily accessed, the Dike Wall has excellent 5.10 and up sport climbs. Crystal Crags has more moderate climbs also of excellent quality. The guidebook is Eastern Sierra Summer by Mick Ryan.