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KuntryKlimber
Mountain climber
Rock Hill, SC
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 6, 2008 - 10:48am PT
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This is a youtube video of the proper usage of the death triangle in order to kill oneself.
DEATH TRIANGLE
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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"We call these, bomb-proof bolts."
No, WE ficking don't.
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scuffy b
climber
up the coast from Woodson
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The triangle this guy sets up could hardly be called a death
triangle. With his geometry there is insignificant load
multiplication.
All triangles are not equal.
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KuntryKlimber
Mountain climber
Rock Hill, SC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2008 - 11:07am PT
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yea but why would you teach a triangle? or why use it at all? and why doesn't he use two biners on the tie in?
EDIT: im gonna disagree with you on the geometry too. he's got almost an equalateral triangle which is signif. load increase.
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KuntryKlimber
Mountain climber
Rock Hill, SC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2008 - 11:15am PT
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Expert: Mike Braeuer lives in Austin, TX where he has climbed for 10 years. He runs Climb On Adventures, a guide service for fathers and sons. Read More
his guide service should be called fatherless sons. am i right?? burn.
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72hw
Trad climber
Hollyweird, CA
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I was shown how to rig this anchor when I first started building my own, however, it was rightly identified as one to never employ.
Maybe reclassify these as comedy clips if not removed entirely.
Just a thought.
EDIT: Over on the 'Expert Village' site he has a vid called "Learn tips on how to repel safely in the sport of rock climbing in this free video clip on extreme sports."
Well, he successfully repelled me safely away from his tutalige!
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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He's living proof that you don't have to be good to survive climbing.
It's so easy to do a V setup, you'd think in ten years he'd have figured out what MOST climbers learn in the first 3 months or less.
Write to expert village and complain.
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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I am sure we have all rapped on a "Death Triangle".
:>)
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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His opposite and opposed carabiner demo is wrong too. He puts the biners on with gates and gate hinges facing the same way, then rotates one 180 degrees.
Apparently in ten years he's never encountered either book or person who could show him the correct way to do opposite and opposed biners.
Totally clueless.
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KuntryKlimber
Mountain climber
Rock Hill, SC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2008 - 11:43am PT
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all his videos are subpar id say. he doesn't mention back up knots on his rapping vid and why would you use biners on the chains every time but not use two on the tie in?
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
Nowhere
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Expertvillage.com should change their URL to Idiots.com an Climb On Adventures should rename itself Die On Adventures
Mike Braeuer is an idiot, and not just because he built a death triangle. He starts of his lecture by telling us that the anchor needs to be SRENE and says that the NE stands for No Extension. And then he proceeds to build an anchor with extension.
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Count Chocula
climber
Choclovania
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you could also email or call the idiot himself at
mikebraeuer@gmail.com
(512) 680-9610
(814) 680-9610 Fax
4701 Staggerbrush # 826
Austin, Texas 78749
from his website
"Mike Braeuer has been rock and mountain climbing for 8 years. Some of his adventures include climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro (19,340 ft.) through Kenya and Tanzania, Africa, as well as free climbing in Golden, Boulder, and El Dorado Canyons in Colorado. His numerous trips to Enchanted Rock and countless climbs locally around the Austin Greenbelt provide the experience necessary for a fun filled and SAFE trip. "
and from a testimonial:
"...There's nothing like staring fear in the face and climbing higher to call the man out of a boy."
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raymond phule
climber
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I liked his sliding x. Huge extension. One locking biner at the power point but 2 locking biners on each bolt...
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Domingo
Trad climber
El Portal, CA
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Isn't Kilimanjaro a walk-up?
I think I'll email him as well.
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana
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If he's an expert..then I'm a superduper expert. Suggest moving his video from "Youtube" to "YouTOOL". Amazing.
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KuntryKlimber
Mountain climber
Rock Hill, SC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2008 - 02:00pm PT
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his equalized anchor video shows
a. a slung boulder that appears to be basketball sized
b. the girth hitch on the tree set to cinch right on the water knot
c. 1 tie in biner again
d. 2 overhands right on top of eachother. never seen it done but it has to weaken the setup, no? if nothing else it's ugly as hell.
that he's alive is a testament to the bolting in texas. it wouldn't be as bad if he wasn't guiding little kids.
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