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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Apr 10, 2010 - 06:40pm PT
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Thanks for the TR. Sounds like you had fun. Good luck with both the ankle and the knee.
Climb on!
Zander
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climbinginchico
Trad climber
Modesto, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2010 - 07:09pm PT
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Chad, I had a blast, and I've been training the ankle for pain and stretching by standing on it when it's rolled over on its side, like I would be jamming. It's slowly loosening up and getting less painful. Soon!
Bruce, awesome route, definitely one of my favorite slab routes of all time at the grade. Fairly sustaned, interesting climbing. It was really fun for us to find the stances you were drilling from. Moreso for Chad as he's the driller of the two of us, but we had a blast on the route. It was the highlight of the weekend for me. We briefly considered going higher, but it was getting wet and the sun was disappearing.
Shino, We will have to climb soon. I'll be in touch.
Zander, thanks for the well wishes. The knee is doing great. Either it got scared of surgery and healed itself, or the prayers of my family and friends worked. Either way, no surgery and it's been pain-free for a couple weeks now.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Apr 11, 2010 - 02:07am PT
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I remember the circumstances surrounding the FA of "Mid-Life Crisis" real well: I received word while working a job I hated in the Silicon Valley that my favorite aunt, Grayce, the artistic one in Sacramento, had died. That loosened me up a bit. Then, I got a letter from my current GF in Santa Cruz telling me to shove off. What else was there to do but drive to the Ditch and put up an FA? Seemed like the only logical course of action at the time. Sort of a face climbing tune up for freeing the East Face of Mt. Watkins later that summer in July.
Oh yeah! How many of the old 1/4" Rawl bolts have been replaced with 3/8"? Know that the first pitch has been retroed, but how about the others?
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climbinginchico
Trad climber
Modesto, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2010 - 02:17am PT
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There weren't any old bolts, everything was reasonably fresh ASCA gear. Proud FA, and done in good style too. Bolts are just far enough apart to make it spicy, but not too terrifying.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Apr 11, 2010 - 03:23am PT
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funny meeting up with Amy in the story.
I had a similar experience along the base after following Jake Miller up Sacherer. I had been chatting up Craig Peer about his routes in Kings Canyon online for awhile, and made an attempt on Freak Show. As I'm standing at the base, I over hear the conversation about the area. Turns out it was Craig, dragger (on lead, who I didn't get to say hi to before leaving) and Squishy and two, or one other guy. totally small world.
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