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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Feb 25, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
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Me thinkin this is Leila. Help me out with this Yeti and I do believe I ran into her in recent history, say within 5 years? She shared a cabin with Lito at Bear Valley back in 71 ish? Fill in the dots......
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Feb 26, 2012 - 12:54am PT
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I remember the old North Face and the Condor Club thumping away next door
(Isn't that where Carol Doda used to perform?) but can't remember Doug
for some reason? I mainly visited there to buy ripstop nylon and down
for my own sewing.
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Chris Jones
Social climber
Glen Ellen, CA
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Missed this thread earlier. That is certainly Leila. She was, and likely still is, one of those persons who is so attractive that it is slightly disarming.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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As always, well stated Chris!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Thanks Marty
I always looked forward to the point on a road trip, when you'd be driving and you got a real sense of the vehicle- usually "late at night-seeing my pretty Alice in every head light........"
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cintune
climber
Bruce Berry's Econoline Van
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180° South is a great sequel.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Hey Chris- You mentioned at the 2013 Oakdale Climbers Festival that there are two distinct versions of this film, one approved by Lito and the other disliked by him.
How do people know which is which so they don't buy the lesser version?
Happy New Year!
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Chris Jones
Social climber
Glen Ellen, CA
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The two film versions of the 1968 Fitz Roy trip are in fact both included on the DVD "Mountain of Storms" available on the Patagonia website:
http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/mountain-of-storms-dvd?p=D1005-0
So you get to see them both and decide which you prefer! The original concept that Doug Tompkins had to make a super "Endless Summer" of the road trip, plus surfing, skiing and climbing was problematical due to the fact that there as almost no snow that ski season in Chile. Also the surfing footage was weak by the standards of the day - certainly compared to "Endless Summer"! After all we had just one camera and cameraman, and this was his first major effort.
Lito concentrated just on the Fitz Roy climb, and his resulting movie "Fitz Roy first ascent of the southwest buttress" won the
GRAN PREMIO "CITTĄ DI TRENTO" at the 1969 Trento Film Festival.
A few years later, thinking about the unused footage and likely hoping for a commercial success - or at least to recoup their investment - Doug and Yvon hired a professional team to create a more complete version: "Mountain of Storms". As Lito expressed himself to me: "Mountain of Storms is the long version of our funhog trip that some TV guys put together for Doug and Yvon years and years ago, and which ... had no success to speak of. I agree, Mountain of Storms seems kind of corny (in terms of narration, music and story) although they used not just the footage I shot, but lots of sequences I had edited. I think my short film on our climb was much better, but heck, I am prejudiced."
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