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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 21, 2012 - 12:46am PT
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BK How about knickers and BLUE socks?
This is in Alta, so I suppose it's a foreign trip.A very scarey day----the first day of hunting season!
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Mar 21, 2012 - 01:32am PT
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Another first ascent in BC done in knickers while climbing under the guidance of Carlos Castenadas
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 21, 2012 - 10:57am PT
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Does any one know who did the FFA of liquid gold? Cool lookin line, any one here ever climb it?
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MH2
climber
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Mar 21, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
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I believe Harry Young worked on cleaning it up and may also have done the FFA. I've done it. The cracks at the top are good.
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Mar 21, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
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The Harper regime is going to do irreversible damage to British Columbia, and in the process alienate our greatest ally the Americans, and commit us to alliances with a criminal regime, the CCP ( Chinese Communist Party ) which has little respect for human rights among other evils.
What going on at the federal level in Canadian government right now is disgusting, and very damaging in the long term.
Opanalox could probably tell us more of the insidious details, re: the gutting of the environmental review processes.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 21, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
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As much as I agree with the above comments, I come here to read about climbing and climbing related stuff. I get my fill of political corruption, back room deals, and environmental terrorism on other websites, forums and from various other sources. I wish this forum would take a queue from other on line forums and limit off topic discussions to a separate page.
It would sure be nice to tune-in to the front page of this forum and only have climbing stuff to peruse instead of US political rantings, bird watching, techniques for unclogging a toilet, and shopping for the best home defense shotgun. I've watched more than a few forums come and go in the last few years as things simply degenerate into pissing contests and completely unrelated rants. If we don't keep it on track, someone else is going come along and make the next popular climbing forum and this one will shrivel up. We've seen it with Gripped's forum, RC.com, Cascade Climbers and more. This place is usually great. Can we keep it that way?
Okay I'm kicking the soapbox back to the middle of the room now. Sorry for the digression if it offended anyone. I intend no offense bmacd.
Kris
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 21, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
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Yea, What he ^^ said!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 21, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
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On another climbing related note; providing I haven't burned many bridges with that last comment, I'm looking for picks! My favorite weapon of moss destruction over the last few years has been old Stubai technical ice axes. The ease of replacing the taper-fit picks and the durability of the shaft and head have made them the burliest weapon in my quiver.
I'm on my third Stubai axe, and my very last pick. Over the years folks have been extremely generous with giving me their old ice axes and ropes for cleaning projects. I'm appealing to the climbers of the area to search the bottoms of their old gear bins and closets to ferret out any old picks you may have left. Once I wear about two inches off the pick it becomes not as useful for anything below a hand-sized crack. Here's a picture of a worn down one for reference.
I don't care what pick style they are, I've used them all. Even if they had a small section of the tip snap off I'll take them. I'm even experimenting with welding on longer picks to my stubs, but so far they're not holding up to the abuse.
Thanks for taking the time to look!
Kris Wild
PS. For any of you other aspiring crack excavators, I have a few extra old donated mountaineering axes I'm willing to donate to someone else's cause.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 21, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
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Kris; thats you working on the left side of the papoose? I saw ropes there last season; whens it gonna be open for business?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 21, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
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Bruce I agree with you that his comments are bang on and that it warrants attention. It's just that so often a thread degenerates into nothing but political or ethical ranting. That's great, I just with it could be contained in a new thread. I know things are unlikely to change around here. I was just giving my $.02
Back to climbing in Squamish, hopefully...
Luke, yes, that debris cone is of my making. The route is Hanging Gardens 5.8 A1 from 1965. It will have a new, more direct first pitch, and will likely weigh in at mid 5.10 once it's finished. It probably has one or two days left to finish it up. (Anchors, dusting, etc.)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 21, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
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Thanks, Kris - I was wondering when someone would have a look at Hanging Gardens. Perhaps just for once some sort of renaming may be justified, given that there won't be gardens there any more. It was an unusual climb or bushwhack or whatever you call it. Have you talked with John Coope about it?
And I agree with Bruce regarding non-climbing threads. It adds to the diversity, information and entertainment, and since the purge most of those involved in such threads also contribute to climbing threads. As long as they keep it to a dull roar, with say one thread for US politics, one for whackjob conspiracy theories, one for religitards, and passing threads for current events. As long as it's not more than say 1/3 or 1/2 of the threads on the front page at any time.
The twitchers (birders) and dog lovers can have their own threads, too.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 21, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
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Speaking of dogs (and Hanging Gardens), has anyone in modern times looked at Overhanging Gardens?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 21, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
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Why would anyone want to change the name? or any name? Hanging Gardens is great, and [obviously] a clever juxtaposition with the hanging gardens of Babylon, and 'Early Squamish' conditions. There is rarely, if ever, any justification for changing the name of a route. Anyone wanting to name a route should find and climb their own. No reference to Kris, as he did not suggest this. Cleaning a route is just 'hanging gardening' anyway.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 21, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
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I had a look at Overhanging Gardens when I first rapped off the top in the wrong spot to put up my fixed lines. (after climbing HG in it's original condition) It looks like it has a half pitch of decent climbing (lots of old pins under the arching overhang), but it would require about 5 moves of aid on a horizontal bolt ladder to access the climbing. Half of the old ladder is still there, the others have rusted off completely. I honestly don't think it would go free from what I could see.
Bear in mind that the two routes are reversed in the last three McLane guides. Hanging Gardens traverses in from the right, then goes straight up the nice shallow left-facing corner systems. Overhanging Gardens branches out left from the former route about halfway up the second pitch. Take a look at the old Smaill, Campbell, or Anders' guide for the real deal.
I don't want to rename it Anders. I like the prospect of the confusion it will invoke when people try to understand why a nice clean corner was ever called that. I was sure to destroy all photographic evidence of what it looked like "before", and believe me, it certainly did deserve the name.
I was just a bit too late to have it included in the upcoming new Bourdon select guide. Kevin has said it will be included in his upcoming new comprehensive guide in it's new condition.
K
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 21, 2012 - 10:10pm PT
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Scubber, thanks for not renaming it. The route may now be clean and free of green, but the name hints at some of the history of the route. Shame to lose that.
Yeah, I wouldn't think that Overhanging Gardens would go free, but with what you modern climbers are doing now, nothing would surprise me now. Filthy but sort of fun climb in my day.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 21, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
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Ok, now I want to know the most obscure routes any of you've done on the Chief. Mine was probably Green Thumb. Now that would be an epic cleaning mission...
Who here has climbed Northwest Passage, Zodiac Wall, Echelon, Caramba Crags, or other near forgotten routes?
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MH2
climber
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Mar 21, 2012 - 10:43pm PT
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I thought Mr. Ticklebits was a very "green" route. Or was it Picklebits? I think Reacharound is a candidate for obscure, also. Hiphugger was not much travelled when we did it but maybe less so, now. Has anyone done On Tilt lately? Raindance and the corner above it, two or three times. South Arete doesn't see the use it deserves. Survival of the Flatus.
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Mar 21, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
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whose boat rope is fixed on the south end of the papoose ? I saw the dirt cone at hanging gardens, impressive. scrubbing doesnt entitle one to name change though.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
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bmac- read a little closer you might find out.
As far as thread drift or "bounce" I enjoy a bit from time to time as long as it doesn't get out of hand which it has a bit lately.. Fortunatly there seems to be enough people around here who care to call for focus and steer us back on topic.
If something really warrants discussion start a new thread and copy some of the conversation from here over there. Still might start that snowmobile vs. skier thread.
Sounds like another gem Kris! Can't wait to get on it.
Took a look at Hiphugger a week and a half ago, looked a little scruffy, but manageable, but it was also a bit wet. I had thought of giving it a little scrub.
Me and Kyle did South Arete a couple years ago. I lead the first pitch through the wide and quite enjoyed it actually until I ended up setting up a gear anchor on the flake feature just below the roof, because I was unsure if I would have enough big gear to set one up anywhere else and I could get some small cams in there.
I swear I thought that flake was going to break. I had a cam in the handcrack backing it up, but I thought I could feel it flexing as I sat on it belaying Kyle. When he finally got up there he was pretty bagged, I guess he had a rough go with the wide section... (Being tall does help sometimes.)
He seemed thoughly unimpressed with my gear anchor, (He really hated them anyways) and I just gave him this look like "Ya me neither." I flipped the rope and grabbed the gear from him, and headed up over the roof. The rest of the climb was quite enjoyable, definetly a good alternative if you've done everything else.
I definetly recommend more people check it out.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 21, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
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scrubbing doesnt entitle one to name change though.
I wouldn't dream of it. That was Anders' comment. It could have the most ludicrous name in the world, but if I clean it up, its still that route, and it has a history long predating me.
As to the boat rope. Does it go up a whole pitch or more? Or is it just a little fixed line at the base just to the right of Centerfold? If the latter is the case, I believe Robin B. put it there. He cleaned and finished an old project of John H.'s , and "opened up" the area around the base during the early winter. He had a good chuckle over my debris cone too.
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