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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 26, 2011 - 02:19am PT
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So i thought i'd post a few of my photos and see if anyone else has anything to share!
How do i link photos straight from flickr?
Tami you are correct it is Kangaroo Corner. That spaceman is my the logo for my production company.
You were involved in the fa on this one no? Any stories?
Mike
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 03:17am PT
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Last weekend it was a bit rainy so we headed out to Nightmare Rock at Murrin.
Luke wanted to lead Grandaddy overhang so he hung me a rope and i took pics for the pinkpoint attempt.
Yours truly cleaning the gear..
One of the drier 5.9's in Squamish on a rainy day, Big Daddy
It was pretty busy there.. a few randoms
My buddy kyle decided to lead the "Big Barn Door" 10c
no send unfortunatly. He lost a foot just after the crux
Nightmare is a fun place to go play on a rainy day!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 02:01pm PT
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Thanks for posting up Coastal! I recognize the pillar, and the Buttress crux pitch!
Is that rurp riot aka dreamcatcher? What are the others?
Mike
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coastal_climber
Trad climber
British Columbia
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Sep 26, 2011 - 02:57pm PT
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I'm not sure which aid line it is actually... haha
other photos are of me and a friend on C.Wall and myself on a .10b route near ronins corner
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 03:03pm PT
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More?
Me on pitch 3 Upper Echelon
Photo Credit Py Boivin
Photo Credit Luke Cormier
Last one isn't mine but i did a lot of work on it in photoshop.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
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Hey Coastal, that "10b" is Desperado and it goes at 10c in the Mclane book.
Your one in the south gully looks to be close to Rock On but i don't remember those moves so it must be bad pants or something else in that area.
Tami you are right, at 6'7 my wingspan is quite large, which is probably why i prefer trad and not so much short boulder moves. It gets tough when your butt starts hanging way out there.
What did you guys rate Kangaroo? 11a? probably not. Dunno about Sentry Box.. Mclane guide is where i get my beta and he's had it that way since the 2001 guide at least.. I haven't led it yet so can't comment.
You'll be glad to hear that the lettuce hasn't fallen out of style at the crag :)
50 footer at Nightmare eh? That woulda been a big whip, especially for that area!
Thanks for the stories! They are always better from the "horse's mouth"
(NOT calling you a horse!) :)
Edit: Shame about the zip.. Took my first upside down lead fall there after I stupidly hooked my foot... Shook me up a bit but taught me a valuable lesson. Hopefully the muni can figure out some kinda compromise.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 26, 2011 - 04:09pm PT
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50 footer at Nightmare eh? That woulda been a big whip, especially for that area!
Just imagine yourself as a non-climbing cinematographer. You're lying on your back on top of a big boulder, planning to shoot straight up, waiting for some idiot to fall from directly above you. You've been told nothing can go wrong because the badass climbers (who all seem to be about nineteen years old) have rigged it so the guy falling will stop after about 25 or 30 feet. Since you're almost 60 feet below him, you convince yourself that it's going to be okay.
Then he's airborne and falling. And falling. And falling. Coming to a stop just a few feet above the spot where you've just sh#t your pants.
He (the camera dude) wasn't real happy when the director said they'd have to do another take.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 04:37pm PT
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Ghost! ROFL!!!!
I was thinking that a 50 footer would be really close to the ground! :)
Good thing no camera guy pancake! I'm guessing the second one was a bit shorter :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 07:44pm PT
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One more of Kangaroo
edit: Figured out img tags!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Sep 26, 2011 - 08:09pm PT
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thanks for the photos. Haven't thought about Center Street forever. It looks a bit grassy in your second photo. I don't remember why, but I took a pretty good fall on that route one day a long time ago.
The Zip is a beautiful crack. I remember my partner Steve taking me down there and I was thinking "all these beautiful walls why are we groveling around in this shady swamp?". But it was worth it. Climbed it many times and it might be my hardest free solo (after having wired it).
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
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Hey Mike,
You are welcome. Crag X is a little under used these days. It could definetly use a good scrub.. Maybe if i have some spare time this fall.
Interesting story about the Zip... Two of my buddies went to lead it this year and after sending found that they were marooned by the tide! Apparently things got a little wet on the way out :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 08:34pm PT
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Nice Jim....
I led the pillar for my first time ever on the Summer Solstice this year. It was after work and still early season for me so it totally drained me. I had to rest on just about every piece on the way up.. At the top i had to transfer all the gear off my harness to get into the squeeze.. just barely!
When i got to the top and clipped the anchors, i looked up and understood immediately why they call it the "Sword of Damocles"! It looks like a giant guillotine just waiting to slice your melon!
Tami- I have read the Climbing at Squamish in the 1970's thread in it's entirety! In fact it's what brought me to the taco stand in the first place! I tried to encourage Anders to continue but i think he's been too busy lately..
You might find it interesting to know that i do find the lower moves on kangaroo quite tough especially with my large fingers... You are right tho.. Once i get to the decent holds, it's all over.
I started posting these photos on Squamishclimbing.com but no one took any interest, so i thought maybe here they might spark some more tales of yore from the Squamish vets that hang out on the taco.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 08:48pm PT
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Tami you mean when i finally do get my butt to Yos! Too bad.. Steck-Salathe sounds like fun.. ;-)
edit quality=#1!
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bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
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Sep 26, 2011 - 09:04pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 09:07pm PT
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What's it called Bmacd??? Topo?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!