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Shack
Social climber
So. Cal.
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Sep 11, 2005 - 01:14am PT
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Why do you think Pete takes so much extra crap with him?...
cuz he knows he's gonna drop some of it!
I think Pete would agree that NOT dropping stuff IS the better way....
I'ts just doesn't always work out that way.
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Holdplease2
Trad climber
All over
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Sep 11, 2005 - 01:25am PT
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David:
Good point. However, I think that Pete probably recognizes these errors, and recognizes that everyone reading this report will recognize them as errors.
If Pete was not owning up to his errors, he would not have included this information in the TR at all...I would have been tempted not too, myself.
After all, this trip report is just that, a report on a trip. Not a text book on "how too" that has to have every single lesson explained in full.
I understand your perspective, of course, but I think if you look at it this way, Pete acknowledged plenty.
-Kate.
(I am mostly saying this because I think he is on the road right now to Yos and won't be able to reply right away, not that its my place to speak for him)
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Scrunch
Trad climber
Provo, Ut
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Sep 11, 2005 - 04:21am PT
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Thanks for the story, Pete, and the pictures. I never did like stories without them...
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 11, 2005 - 05:37am PT
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lay lady ledge looks huge -- i think unroping there is normal ..
we unroped on heart ledges -- and on the bivy ledge right below (and to the left of the heart ledge) .. felt pretty safe to me -- just dont get too close to the edge
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poop_tube
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Sep 11, 2005 - 05:59am PT
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sweeeeeeet
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Sally OConnor
Social climber
Canada
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Sep 11, 2005 - 06:54am PT
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Great TR, Pete. Witty.
Will be in Yos early Oct.
May tempt you to sing with a Merrican beer.
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Shack
Social climber
So. Cal.
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Sep 11, 2005 - 02:24pm PT
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Right Ricardo...
Pete's just free soloing the ledge.
I confess!!
I've unroped on Dinner Ledge.
Phew!
There, I feel like a weight has been lifted from me.
Back to praising and or flaming Pete.
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rather crawl
climber
Columbus,OH
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Sep 11, 2005 - 07:18pm PT
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The pictures were great and I enjoyed the report.
Not being a climber, I never imagined how much gear you have to haul up a climb. It certaintly doesn't entice me to climb. Along the lines of not being a climber, I can understand the climbers wanting more action shots, but it was informative to see your stove and "big wall camping shots."
So, I was just wondering, how's come your partner was always bundled up, but you're lying around in shorts?
Janice
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Sep 11, 2005 - 07:32pm PT
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Done! Whew.
I read a chapter every night, this was like the Moby Dick of TRs, except with slightly less information about whale foreskins.
Thanks, Pete. BTW, everyone, posting pics and TRs is not necessarily spray. Share it, peeps.
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joebuzz
Trad climber
Oakhurst, Ca.
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Sep 12, 2005 - 12:50am PT
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Excellent TR Pete! The story and pics were great. Look forward to hooking up again soon.
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Beatrix Kiddo
Mountain climber
Denver
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Sep 12, 2005 - 01:09pm PT
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Hey Pete! Good to see you out and about! Awesome TR as usual. Some day I'll make it out there to do some climbing with you!
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David Nelson
climber
San Francisco
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Sep 12, 2005 - 09:18pm PT
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Werner,
OK, go ahead and tell me to lighten up, but I think that you are overstating it when you say that Pete has acknowledged his mistakes because he has written about them. Not quite. I realize that we all drop things, Charlie Porter and myself included, but to have your foul weather gear (or any other gear which may be necessary for your survival) lying around without being clipped in is just stupid. That is the mistake, not dropping it. Dropping something is one thing, deliberately not clipping in vital gear is stupid. Gravity always sneaks around when you least expect it, and there it goes.
Again, I think it is a mistake in judgement to wander around any ledge without being tied in. Make your umbilical cord as long as you like, but tie in. I know it is a nuisance, but gravity will sneak around when you least expect it. As I observed in my earlier post, John Dill's essay on the YOSAR site documents how good climbers have accidentally fallen off ledges while deliberately unroped.
I realize that we all get to make our own choices and we all have our own style of climbing, our own threshold for safety, etc, and these freedoms are the things that we all love about climbing, and I never want the Park Service to wade in with an opinion. Each to his own, and viva la difference. But not tying in is bad technique. All it takes is a simple stumble, or a jump to get out of the way of rockfall, and that is it.
I am not telling Pete to do it differently, I merely want to point out that these are risky techniques. Maybe "mistakes" is too strong, how about just "risky techniques."
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Holdplease2
Trad climber
All over
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Sep 12, 2005 - 09:50pm PT
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David,
How about pointing out how BRILLIANT it was of Pete to carry a spare bivy sack AND spare warm weather gear in the event that something like this happened?
And how about if you are dumb enough to walk off of the edge of a 600 square foot ledge...DONT CLIMB THE FRICKING CAPTAIN!
How about it wasn't even PETE that dropped this stuff, but his PARTNER? How about that it is not his right or place to pass judgement on that, either.
-Kate.
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David Nelson
climber
San Francisco
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Sep 12, 2005 - 09:58pm PT
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OK Kate, Pete is brilliant and his partner made dufus mistakes. My point was just that if we are to learn about how to climb and be safe, we need to do more than just tell Pete we love the TR and pix (which is what I said in the first place).
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 16, 2005 - 11:15am PT
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ayayay!... lucy !? -- what have you done? ...
.. umm ..
.. how about we try to remember that this is a trip report -- and leave it at that. .. its not a how-to ..
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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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Sep 16, 2005 - 11:43am PT
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I think Pete might think twice about posting a photo essay in future.
Lighten up everyone.
H.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2005 - 11:23pm PT
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Hey y'all,
Thanks for all the kind comments, and inspiration to make up another photo essay.
As for what I write, and how I write it, what can I say? Some people get it, and some people don't. Interestingly, there is a high positive correlation between those who do get it, and those whom I meet who actually climb walls. Perhaps in my next trip report, I should [for the benefit of those who emphatically do not get it] preface certain paragraphs with the following caveat:
THIS IS WHERE I MADE AN INCREDIBLY STUPID MISTAKE - WHICH I FREELY ADMIT *BECAUSE* I AM WRITING ABOUT IT.
{shrug}
Well, back to the walls!
Cheers,
Pete
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2005 - 07:32pm PT
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Are you guys up for another one of these, then?
[Note: This time, I climbed with a hottie as you suggested....]
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Shack
Big Wall climber
So. Cal.
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I'm up for more...but,
"This time, I climbed with a hottie as you suggested"
I'm a little skeptical....
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rja
Trad climber
somewhere between LA and Baja
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F*#king Great TR and pictures. I have no comment on the computer-geek, html, image-size, or anything else. It looked like you had a great time and traveled in comfort. Thanks for taking the time and energy to post such a comprehensive report. Congratulations!!!
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