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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Guides? Hell, all I got was a tee shirt...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nice one Healyje!
Chiloe,
That's an interesting overlay-
But there was still yet a guide in between; very 70's centric...white cover...DuMais?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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I haven't read the Dumais RMNP guide. I was occupied on the right coast most of
the next decade. Does he have a good historical section?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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I have only the first page; having photocopied just some of the book.
Anybody out there have the rest?????
We'd love to read the complete hist'ry section.
WHITE RMNP guide, (not certain it is Du Mais)
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sibylle
Trad climber
On the road again!
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I don't have Dumais' RMNP guide, but I have a Long's Peak book with history and interesting info.
Also, an amusing guide to Arco, Italy.
When I was in Kyrgyztan in 1987, the Russian climbers gave me this cookbook, Uzbek cuizine, as a gift.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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usbyeckskaya kooshnya
too funny
is that Arco guide where the old Sportiva logo on some of my older Mythos came from?
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Pulled some stuff out of boxes at the office and found some real gems:
The British guides were picked up in 1982 when we climbed there- actually did the route on the cover of the Gogarth guide (Ordinary Route). Notwithstanding the innocent name, I remember it being hard and scary with the 3rd pitch finishing -- as many routes here do -- on near vertical grass.
Here is some stuff in another box:
My all time favorite is the Buddy Price - Carolinas Climber Guide. Is perhaps the most poorly written US guide ever. But a total classic in every sense. Other favorites in this group are the Devil's Elbow, Diamond Hill and Kuala Lumpor guides. The Kuala Lumpopr guide has about 6 routes, written by Dave Dornan?
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2008 - 04:10pm PT
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The Jim Kolocotronis Palisades guide? I climbed with him at the Gunks.
An Uzbek cookbook? That is a proud addition to any thread.
An ingenious, durable, and portable guide:
and some pathos:
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Ive got a one page hand written guide to Strawberry Peak in Southern California's Angeles Nat. Forest that was drawn and written by Ruth Mendenhall in 1938 I believe. I have used it on a few occasions to venture onto the massive North Face of this little known hunk of rock.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Probably the only guide to Strawberry Peak ever published!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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I've got a guidebook to Steamboat Springs climbing somewhere. You Colorado folks all have that one?
Had some trouble finding one of the crags in it, but that's probably just me.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Tar,
Probably right. She drew a picture of the peaks N Face with dihedrals and ledges on it. There are descriptions of such classic routes such as Strawberry Roam and Tip Toe Traverse detailing pin placements and belay points.
If anyone finds a yellow Metolius TCU on the main dihedral it's mine and not a artifact from the first ascensonists.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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The only Strawberry Peak guide of which I am aware is "Strawberry Peak-North Wall, an Impromptu Climbing Guide" by "J.D.M." (John D. Mendenhall); [CA#53].
The date on it was July, 1943. If you have something different, I'd love to see it.
Thanks,
Randy
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Randy,
It's not so much a guidebook as a piece of paper that she scrawled out the details to routes on the rock. I'll try and find it and see if I can post a picture. I also have a xerox copy of a Sierra Club Bulletin #25 1940 in which she describes some of the climbs.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Moving from the old to the new, this arrived a couple of days ago...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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And from the new to the True Word Of God
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Jones in LA
Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
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Feb 19, 2015 - 10:36am PT
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From and for @BrianInSLC
"Desperate Grace by Rex Green". Probably more accurate to say it was by Dennis Turville and another guy. "Rex Green is a nom de plume.
I believe I've got the answer to your mystery (albeit 6 years after you asked for help in solving it):
Desperate Grace was the first standalone climbing guide ever published for the granite (monzonite, actually) climbs in Little Cottonwood Canyon. The only guide available before that was a three-ring binder kept chained to the counter at [the long defunct] Timberline Sports. Grace was a collaborative effort by Dennis Turville and Rex Green. Yes, Rex Green is a pseudonym. The same mystery author also referred to himself sometimes as Ebeneezer Steele. The real "Rex Green" posts on this forum as Woody the Beaver. He is a very modest and private man, but he has posted here that his first name is Marshall so I'll leave it at that until he chooses to reveal any more. Marshall is a prince among men, and someday I'll post a thread here with some amazing facts about a genuinely cool guy. Mystery solved.
Rich Jones
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