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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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May 22, 2007 - 11:14am PT
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Kev, you guys scored....nice one! How about the field of big knobs on the right side....one of these days!
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bob
climber
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May 22, 2007 - 11:27am PT
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Did a route a couple years back where we started on Werner's Ant Trees(no ants) to Surprise(great surprise that one!) to Indica Point. I Believe it to be a D. Barton/ W. Shipley route. Sitting in Res. 4 or 5 and looking up at that beautiful book all the time. That book being Indica Point. The last pitch to the railing on the Falls Trail is pretty friggin cool. Ending up there is what made it classic. Our buddy was waiting with his feet hanging over the edge. I wanted to grab his foot. Ahhhhh Indica Point. Great way to adventure your way up that whole Five Open Books area.
Back to Tuolumne....The Nazgul is really fun. Its on that wall to the right of Hobbit Book and Mesmerized. Speaking of Mesmerized, the route as a whole blows for the most part, but the roof is REALLY rad. Worth picking your way up to it just to do that thing. Lead it then TR!!!! Another great hang where you're pretty much ensured to have it to yourself. Maybe not anymore because of this thread, oops. j/k
I love this stuff. Please keep giving me ideas folks.
Bob j.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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May 24, 2007 - 06:51pm PT
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Karl, Wow, incredible to know an entire route of mine is gone. Humbling. Punch Bowl wiped out. Thanks. I'll stop suggesting people go look, never mind myself going up there for old times sake (though maybe it could be "replaced," a true phoenix).
Largo, I too liked Black Rose, but it is run. But on fabulous, imposing, black rock, especially in the shade. You’re probably right about Abstract Corner - little traffic. But I did flop on it several times. Couldn't seem to figure it very well. Bad day or maybe it's just very hard.
Ken, Always Arches goes through the arches on the left side of Fairview. Not in any guidebook. Higgins Kamps pre 90's, maybe pre 80's. Careful, don't go up the black steak below arches to white streak above. That's Burning Down the House, a totally different kettle of fish. Third class up the slabs to obvious crack system slightly left and above center of arch. 5.10 over arch. Continue another pitch straight up to under another arch, bolt above. 4th pitch past another bolt to another arch, then crack to big ledge. Here one can escape left or ... I'll leave it at that for the adventure in store.
Bobj, OK, good to know Piece de Resistance crux pitch isn't the beauty I remember. Funny how memory does that. I do remember a few flaky flakes, but not many. Maybe it's changed - good call for those interested. As for Mr. Kamps, you are right, wonderful rock, generally good pro, but I recall one pitch traversing right, then straight up where it seems like 11 many feet out. Seemed very scary, and I didn't like the zig zag rope deal. Maybe it's a double rope pitch? Or my memory is jumbled up - a real possibility.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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snyd
Boulder climber
Asheville, NC
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May 24, 2007 - 07:04pm PT
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What about that 11d splitter way up in Lehemite Canyon? 2 pitches, 5.10 and the business. Long Hike!
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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May 24, 2007 - 08:02pm PT
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Tom, I too lost a nice route to the left of Punchbowl to rockfall. " The Punchline " ( no not the one on Arch Rock) 10d, 6 pitches w/Brians' Bennett and Bailey was a beaut ! Also enjoyed Punchbowl.....dam rockfall !
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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May 24, 2007 - 09:53pm PT
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not exactly lesser known but,
way classic
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Towshab
climber
San Diego, CA
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May 25, 2007 - 10:52pm PT
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We did the thief the other day. The second pitch was a classic. But I don't think it gets done to much because of the first "4th class" pitch.
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Mimi
climber
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May 25, 2007 - 11:36pm PT
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Hilarious Warbler about WB's aroma! I don't recall him being aromatic although his ring structure is resonant and uncommonly stable.
Pink Dream to Fatal Mistake
Good Book
Wing of Bat
The Promise
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Mimi
climber
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May 26, 2007 - 02:07am PT
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Unflappable like a noble gas. heh-heh
Brawnium? Where does that element fall on the periodic table?
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Mimi
climber
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May 26, 2007 - 02:25am PT
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The Thief was on my list in my journal but someone had me cross it out. Sounds like bad advice at the time. Looking forward to it!
Warbler Inquiry Edit: How's The Joker next to The Thief? Gotta do Barefoot Servants (5.10c OW) while up there too. Nice trifecta and way burly!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 26, 2007 - 03:53am PT
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The Thief is a beauty, straight in straight up splitter, brief crux if I remember correctly. I think somebody did a face route over there on a gold swath of stone as well. Anybody know about it? While we are on the subject, another obscurity with a junky approach pitch is the Viper, 511.b in the lower canyon. Worth doing in the fall when you can cross the River. I think Grant or maybe Werner picked this plumb.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 26, 2007 - 11:52am PT
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Anyone climb that bolted underclimg route may be called Lightning bolt crack
on Mt Broderick?
I think Walt finished it with maybe Schultz after we had had a wee epic on in years earlier when packing home made giant cams.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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May 26, 2007 - 12:32pm PT
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Golden Bough. usually has too many oak leaves in the finish, but otherwise a nice climb and pretty mellow for a Grade IV .10
On my first attempt I got many pitches up something way scary and way too far to the left... (shudder)
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WBraun
climber
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May 26, 2007 - 01:30pm PT
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Jaybro
The Lightning bolt crack on Mt Broderick was climbed by two SAR guys Gleason (The son of Phil) and Dana last summer.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 26, 2007 - 03:22pm PT
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How about The Vortex on the Fifi Buttress? Did that line ever see any action? Sure looked tasty on paper if a bit stout!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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May 26, 2007 - 03:59pm PT
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not really unknown but.........
I thought the best looking crack was Mr Natural-its like someone bent the apron and it snapped.
A route I have enjoyed is Bishops Terrace. Ends with locker twin 5.8 cracks that are marble statue smooth
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duncan
Trad climber
London, UK
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May 26, 2007 - 04:07pm PT
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Steve, I tried The Vortex with a Washingtonian (John Carpenter?) in '82 or '84. We got to the fifth belay, but ran out of gas. The climbing was excellent to that point.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 26, 2007 - 06:10pm PT
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Chick Holtkamp, Randy Russell, and Eric Zschiesche put a lot of effort into the Vortex and raved about it. If it were more accessible, it would see a lot more traffic.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 26, 2007 - 06:17pm PT
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Speaking of Fifi Buttress, does The Warbler have anything to do with you, Kevin? Done in 1982 by Werner Braun and Ed Berry with the FFA by Bellizi and company).
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K. Fosburg
Sport climber
park city, ut
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May 26, 2007 - 07:28pm PT
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I remember Eric Z. describing the Vortex as an "Engineerin' Marvel" with a nod or maybe it was a wink.
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