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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 25, 2005 - 03:35am PT
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I wish I had climbed here enough to know
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 25, 2005 - 01:39pm PT
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How about
Phantom pinnacle??
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 25, 2005 - 01:46pm PT
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I would agree with Dingus
Another classics is left side of slab happy pinnical. Not to many people make the hike, but it is worth it.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2005 - 01:47pm PT
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Ok ok I give you one you will never go to .....
Catch-U, this Steve Wunch classic will quiet the most prolific sprayer at all times
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Dirk
climber
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Feb 25, 2005 - 02:10pm PT
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Pulput Rock, The Sermon. It's a mini NE buttress of Higher.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Bishop is DEAD, long live JT
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Feb 25, 2005 - 04:05pm PT
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Fallout above Camp 4
Desperate Kneed at Parkline Slab???
A Dogs Roof, tunnel
Ala Moana, above Reeds?? below Reeds???
Werner???
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Matt
Trad climber
moving to the RIGHT
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Feb 25, 2005 - 06:12pm PT
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North Buttress of MCR (not the DNB, but it's neighbor, not hard and nice and long, cool way to suss out the kat walk. I have lots left to do near there, but that whole are is uncrowded and full of history- bring your helmet!)
East Butt of LCR (kinda unusual and less traffic than other routes- the top is chossy but you can rap after 5 pitches w/ 2 ropes- bring a #4)
Everything at Arch Rock is cool
Serenity Crack (oh wait, there might be another party or 2 on that one...)
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2005 - 06:42pm PT
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Ala Moana, is to the right of cat pinnacle Russ. That’s that stormscrew me and yabo did.
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Matt
Trad climber
moving to the RIGHT
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Feb 25, 2005 - 07:21pm PT
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"stormscrew"?
i'm almost afraid to ask what that is...
=)
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Feb 25, 2005 - 07:59pm PT
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I would disagree with both Split Pinnacle and Ab Free
Center.
The biggest problem with Split Pinnacle is that you do
five pitches of climbing but the ground seems to come
along with you. There is no exposure. It seems like
after all that climbing you have never really gotten
off the ground. I think that severely hurts its classic
status.
I have previously stated why I don't think Ab Free is
such a good route. Gritty rock, lots of vegetation,
grody off-widths and a whole bunch of ants for about
15 feet of 1-1/2" crack. Go do Cookie Center instead.
Nobody got this the last time. There actually was a
Yosemite climber with the nickname Hawkman. Name him.
Bruce
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Larry
Trad climber
Reno NV
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Feb 25, 2005 - 08:12pm PT
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Phil something. Famous for facing the wrong way on 10.96. (An unknown classic, itself.)
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 25, 2005 - 08:27pm PT
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How about Werner's Ant Trees???
I thought it was clasic.
I wonder how many of those bolts were placed by Werner? My guess is probally none seeing the bolts are next to a crack?
What about the Lost Brother?
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alik
Big Wall climber
edmonton
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Feb 25, 2005 - 08:59pm PT
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While some people might dissagree with me on this one, I gotta say Salami Ledge. Although its a little dirty in places and not very sustained I really liked it. The crack on the fourth pitch and the upper dihedral are both really good, plus the el cap chimney is one coolest approaches I've done in the valley. Good luck finding the start though. he he
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 25, 2005 - 09:29pm PT
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hey what about the regular route on Washingtons Column?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 25, 2005 - 11:01pm PT
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Damn I can't seem to find the citation about who Hawkman was... and my mind just didn't retain the info....
Hawkman's Escape 5.9 Three Brothers Lower Brother Michael's Ledge, FA 1972 John Dill, Phil Gleason, Peter Haan, Ed Drummond
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2005 - 11:18pm PT
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Werner's Ant Trees???
There's bolts there now? We never placed no bolts there.
ED it's Phil Gleason, his sons are both climbers too.
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 25, 2005 - 11:33pm PT
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Ya Werner there is at least three brand new ASCA bolts on that route, and all but one are right next to a killer crack placement.
Hawkman's escape is a route. good or bad you should decide.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2005 - 11:36pm PT
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Well warpath, they musta paved the road.
Hawkman's escape has a ramblin rose variation I did. I thought that made it nice.
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 25, 2005 - 11:43pm PT
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Werner,
the pave road lets gumbys like my self climb routes like that, I bet it was spicy in the day, no bolts, way above a pin.
I liked hawkmans escape. lots of wide stuff.
Anyone done the regular route up clouds rest?????
Now that looks like a clasic.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2005 - 11:58pm PT
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Yep, Dean Potter told me that Clouds Rest route is a classic.
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