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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Lynne, I can only give you ideas about a week from arrival as to food considerations...we don't and won't know till then. Lemme talk to my posse and we'll see.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Sounds great, we'll check out food and routes as time gets closer, ehhh ?
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adam d
climber
CA
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Cherry Bomb...one or two move wonder (though I'd call it 10d if my memory serves). Unprotected after that but easier. The start of Heart and Soul seems spookier but not as hard overall. Haven't been on EBGB's but it seems there's harder climbing on it, further from bolts...not a good one if you're not feeling 100% about it.
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 07:55am PT
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Lynnie,
pumpkin and pecan it is.
I believe that i have asked you this before, but where in SD are you living?
I am in PB.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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"Hey, how does Cherry Bomb on Echo compare to EBGB's or Heart and Soul or Quickdraw Mcgraw. I've done the Bomb but am reluctant to lead EBGB's, etc... "
I dunno, but Tucker broke his leg a bunch of years back on EBGB's.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Yeah, I need to jump on more 10a's before I tackle EBGB's. I watched my buddy lead Solid Gold 2 years ago, he cursed in German all over the first pitch...I didn't watch the second pitch traverse but hear it's 'spicy'.
I should jump on that this year....maybe
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jump on some more 10a's?
Before you get on EBGB's?
In my experience, by comparison, 10d face climbs in Josh make the 10a's feel all cuddly, safe and secure.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Lynn Hill fell about 25 -30 feet on EBGB's......( Michael Reardon free soloed EBGB's), Tucker Tech broke his leg on EBGB's,......Cherry Bomb and Quick Draw are low angle dummy dome climbing,...... EBGB's is real climbing.
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 01:00pm PT
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tucker is light, and was probably drunk.
Never heard of any of those other people.
EBGB is no harder than loose lady.
5.7 plus
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Khanom, not Rock Rendezvous, but CHAOS. We have the group site, but details are not up to me. I have the week off though, so we may be doing an East side trip first (or not). Probably won't know until a couple of days before.
See ya there Zip! Woot!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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My housemate lead EBGBs three times last season, and he's no superstar...but he is willing to climb at or above his limit well over his gear and doesn't sweat taking falls. He fell on the first attempt at the mantle, second time from somewhere in the middle, and succeeded on the third attempt.
Cherry Bomb has bolts right at the moves, and only one or two .10 moves with the top being like 5.4 or something. Felt easier than Falcon and Snowman to me.
Heart and Sole is straightforward and well protected and is basically a two move wonder with a victory lap on the easy but fun upper lieback. Take a nut or small cam if the first move off the ledge worries you (although the move is trivial, it would be kind of a bad place to fall). It's actual edges and easy to read at the biz.
EBGBs has some hard moves out from the bolts and is in another class from these. I'd say try Falcon and Snowman at 10c first, it that feels good get on EBGBs. The difference between 10a slab and 10+ slab at Josh is pretty big IMO, but I suck at slab.
Here's a better choice for you that will be just as memorable:
I Can't Believe It's a Girdle.
4 pitches, with a bolt at your waist at the crux, a mid .10 friction move on the first pitch. The rest is a couple 5.9 or 5.9+ pitches and a final 5.7 or 5.8 pitch. Position is spectacular, and it's one of the most memorable and unique routes I've done in Josh.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Thanks guys, I meant I need to do more hard 10's before jumping on EBGB's, I usually do 8's and 9's while I'm there with an occassional 'easy' 10 like the Bomb.
I'll have to work up to EBGB's, but it should be fun work!
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katey crystal
Sport climber
bozeman, montana
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Hey I live in Montana and my friend and i will be climbing in Joshua Tree the first week in January. Does anyone know the BEST CLIMBING GUIDE we can get for the area, and give me some recommendations on the best routes down there? Ive never climbed there and am VERY excited!
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2008 - 05:29pm PT
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Katey,
I don't know what level you are climbing at, but the Winger trad guide to JT has a lot of info.
It lists "60 favorite climbs from 5.5 to 5.9".
Todd's site is a good sorce for info, but i am not sure how current it is. I don't think he climbs anymore.
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2008 - 07:19pm PT
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me 2
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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me 3....
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Nov 11, 2008 - 03:10pm PT
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dangit, Phil_B keeps posting as ME!
yep, we'll be there... we have a group site at Sheep Pass. Some folks might be at Ryan too.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Nov 11, 2008 - 03:13pm PT
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In an odd twist, I may be able to go there, then.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!