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WBraun
climber
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Jul 26, 2007 - 02:35pm PT
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Valley secrets like these are knott revealed here.
Ask Crowley, he probably knows. Hint Chuck Goldman
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2007 - 02:48am PT
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Michael D
Big Wall climber
Napoli, Italy
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Jul 27, 2007 - 08:16am PT
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Just did the Dulfer Route at Tre Cima Laveredo with a great buddy who opted to skip all leads on the chimney sections. It's wide, no or poor pro, long, and definitly R and X..the one thought I had the entire time "RIGHT ON, this Dulfer dude did it in mountain boots more than 50 years ago!"
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 27, 2007 - 08:16pm PT
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I wrote, regarding Wild Thing
"If I ever agree to do (or at least lead) that pile again, somebody shoot me first please!!"
Then Russ Wrote
"KB edit: I'd do that thing again... maybe me and Will will go do it..... and trail a line for ya. Is it safe? I mean rockfall safe, not melon cracking falls safe."
Compared to nutcracker it's certain death, compared to the North Face of the Eiger, it's totally bomber, and heck you're nestled in chimneys most the time. You just have to sneak to the base and up the approach pitches without getting smacked.
I'd love to watch you suffer even if it means my own suffering. Only a few conditions:
1. We need a rope gun, and I don't mean a small caliber rope gun that might not kill the prey so that it just gets angry and tears us to pieces. I'm talking WMD rope gun that's easy going, can keep a secret and won't laugh AT us but laugh with us.
2. None of my rack goes up the climb. We will bail before I have to lead squat, and we'll be leaving somebody else's swag.
3. Afterwards, we'll lie and exaggerate.
In the case above, I'll be delighted to join you. I won't be holding my breath though. Go find a piece of plywood and lie in the driveway with that plywood sheet over you and have a couple people jump up and down on it. If you still feel like wild thing, I wouldn't miss it.
oh and
4. Must be in the Fall or early winter so the Dogshit Pitch is dry!
peace
Karl
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 27, 2007 - 08:18pm PT
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I've never done the wild thing.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 27, 2007 - 09:23pm PT
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Team of 4? or two teams of two?
Me and Will, and Jaybro and Karl..... We go first. Rope gun? right here baby..... Maybe Will and me will just set up a giant TR with my various 84m gun ship cords.... The Wild Thing can't be over 600ft tall right? Keep your calendars open.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 27, 2007 - 11:47pm PT
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Problem with cheating on Wild thing is that it traverses all over the place.
I might have to bring a personal #5 Camalot just to Wimp out on the 5.10c horizontal offwidth crux.
My calendar is open. Let's hope nobody says "call" on this poker game!
Peace
Karl
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 28, 2007 - 12:13am PT
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only 10c?! I call, when are we going guys!!
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Jul 28, 2007 - 02:23am PT
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Hey, how about meees?
24th of September works...
What'd'ya say?
B
p.s. wyde don't reefer to offwydths.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 28, 2007 - 02:29am PT
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what does wyde and offwidth have to do with reefer?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 28, 2007 - 02:57am PT
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Way up thread, Ed in his usual thorough manner mentioned "On The Edge", a 5.11b chimney on Half Dome. Just below the right skyline as seen from Mirror Meadow, I believe. Must be exposed and then some.
FA Dale Bard and George Meyers, 1975. The topo says of the crux pitch "scary 5.11b flare". (As though there's some other kind.)
I asked Dale about it a few years ago, and he said (twinkle in his eye) "I really do like wide cracks", or something along those lines.
I wonder if it's ever been repeated?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 28, 2007 - 09:06am PT
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9/24? hmm
I remember, a long time ago, the colonel or someone introducing me to some guy who had climbed 'On the edge'
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jul 28, 2007 - 09:33am PT
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I for one, would like to see the day when chimneys ARE for everyone...when they didn't discriminate based on religion or hand or knee size. I would like to see the day when every AMERICAN, if they choose, could get on the chimney of their choice and just DO it. Then again, it's probably fine the way it is.
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Jul 28, 2007 - 09:57am PT
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Yeah, and has anyone repeated On the Edge?
Must be an echo in here!
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Jul 28, 2007 - 10:53am PT
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I could lead up the right side, carry your summit beers, and safely guide yer bloody carcasses back to terra firma if ya need.
Peter
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jul 28, 2007 - 11:19am PT
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I'd go with you guys to Wild Thing but on the 24th I'm already going to do Basket Case. Maybe we can show our scars later.
Zander
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 28, 2007 - 12:13pm PT
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'Pretty sure Shipley did On the Edge with a Colorado guy named Stu; Stu Ritchey maybe.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 28, 2007 - 12:14pm PT
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this is going to be more fun than a game of spin the geritol!
What about Sunday the 23rd?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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Jul 28, 2007 - 01:47pm PT
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Dogsh#t, rockfall zone, wide cracks...sounds tasty. Let me check my calendar...yup, it's clear from now into the forseeable future.
Now Karl, by "horizontal" do you mean roof or some traversing thing? Because wide roofs...mmm mmm good.
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Jul 28, 2007 - 02:04pm PT
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I can try to show up, and heckle if nothing else.
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