Discussion Topic |
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 21, 2007 - 02:23pm PT
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The Spell, Warlock Dome, Needles, Kern County , Calif.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 21, 2007 - 02:30pm PT
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Chim-Chimney, Granite Mountain, AZ
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 21, 2007 - 03:53pm PT
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Legendary Brutus on the legendary Narrows, Steck-Salathe
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 21, 2007 - 04:37pm PT
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Last pitch of Rollercoaster Chimney at Midnight Rock, near Leavenworth, staying in the chimney/crack all the way. Allegedly "5.9". (There's a 5.7 face detour.) Peapod tightening into a downward flare to an offwidth. Uggh! Not a place for cameras, either.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 04:46pm PT
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How' bout that bombay chimney up on Hotline?
More like an overhanging flare, but you really do chimney it.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 04:53pm PT
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The desert chimneys are phenomenal,
W Face Castleton has good chimney & OW:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 05:14pm PT
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When Dave Katz & I did Chouinard Herbert, he (not me man I never get off route or make poor decisions, haha) went off route left at the start and went up the left side of Chessman Pinnacle. That was some pretty uncooth, burly chimney.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 05:17pm PT
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We use to venerate Lizard King, because of Yabo's report, as well as a whole host of Yabo wide stories: like the epic he had getting his knee stuck on that OW thing down by Parkline Slab? Ala Moana maybe?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 05:24pm PT
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Crowley,
Supertopian Prod took that shot.
He was my unsuspecting 2nd on a whole slew of wide stuff out this way. Guy had very little climbing experience and he never balked at all the wide which his apprenticeship garnered.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 21, 2007 - 06:23pm PT
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From my point of view, you guys are drawing too many distinctions. That pitch on hotline is flaring and wide, and why exactly is that not, offwidth? It's wide & flaring, so of course it's always offsize for some kind of jam. Sounds like the essence of offwidth, to me, but what do I know?
To paraphrase Janis: "It's all the same damn wide ..."
Realm of the Lizard king is a classic, Coz thought we did the third ascent not long after he and Werner thought they did the second (who really knows?)
But,
if you like that one, New Maps of Hell (vedauwoo) is very similar. Similar jams to a weird roof before you abruptly go wide. We did the second, not all that long after the first, (weeks? a year?) and I don't think it's had a third.
Chimneys rock, there is a place by Bluff Utah, that could become the chimney mecca,how's that for spilling the beans?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 06:49pm PT
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OW is too big to fist but too tight to get your hips in.
OW size then, is between the fist and the chimney.
So, from this simple description, may I proceed to the fantabulous logic that everything on either side of the OW, from fists down and tight squeeze up, is also OW, but the acronym stands for: On Width.
So whatever it might measure out at, it's either On Width or Off Width no matter how you measure up to it!
Ergo, you are correct Jay, it's all OW.
Yup, "Yesterday, today...it's all the same fucin' day man".
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 06:54pm PT
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'Dunno about Higbee, never met him.
Those chimney moves on Hotline are wild.
There's a similar pitch on the Dunn Route, Moses, that looks cool. My buddy, Clean Dan, instead of heading out the intimidating bombay on his lead, opted for a straight up tunnel through to a bizarre but secure stretch of 3 way chimney.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 07:01pm PT
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I know, it sounds weird.
Like an intersection of fissures, while inside, from several directions you could see light streaming in through the tower.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 07:14pm PT
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The Fissure Beck is cool; a chimney flare that is stout and not so straightforward. Wile contorting, stemming, chimneying, and maybe laybacking, I thought of Bachar's on sight solo...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 21, 2007 - 08:06pm PT
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Gary Carpenter in Moby Dick, Left 5.9 FA 1963 Kamps & Sacherer
the rating is a hoot!
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 22, 2007 - 12:19am PT
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I hate chimneys. I hate em.
Evil fuking things that make you hurt.
But still I go to them because they are on the way to the top .....
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 22, 2007 - 02:39am PT
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I think that Moby Dick, Left is slightly more vert than the picture shows judging from the way the cams are hanging... at 5.9 it is hard.
I liked Elevator Shaft, that was fun at 5.8 and easy if the dead verticallity of it doesn't jib you out too much.
First pitch of Entrance Exam (got to go back and finish it) at 5.9 caught my attention, but it sews up with modern gear.
Church Bowl Chimney, 5.6... go for it! first time I did I spent a lot of time convincing myself to move through the crux.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 22, 2007 - 05:36pm PT
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Joe Herbst on the FA of Deep Space, 1975:
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 22, 2007 - 06:53pm PT
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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Jul 22, 2007 - 06:57pm PT
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Nature finding himself "Between a Rock and a Hard Place" Joshua Tree.
(photo by Steelmnkey)
18 feet of grunting in Ipecac, Joshua Tree
(photo by the animal nickname guy)
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