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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Aug 16, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
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pffft! that was like rap down bolting inside a crack
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 16, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
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I love it when old people think they get to decide what climbing (or anything else) is all about for younger generations. Reminds me of my grandpa telling me the reason driving fast was so fun was the fear of death and the need for complete focus... something you just don't get with seat belts and modern cars.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Aug 16, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
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yeah I definitely wasn't talking about pissing on someone else's work, just leaving open the ability to explore and develop new areas to keep that part of the adventure alive.
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 16, 2013 - 01:56pm PT
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leaving open the ability to explore and develop new areas to keep that part of the adventure alive.
As long as it meets the old guard's definition of "bold."
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
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As long as it meets the old guard's definition of "bold."
i'd argue that bold is timeless,
and yesterday's interpretation of bold
within our discipline has not much changed.
dilution of courage over time
is something that we must counter,
else our resources go to hell.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Aug 16, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
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old guard doesnt even like the young trads that are doing amazing things these days. cheatin, ya know. dont know exactly how, might have somethin ta do with that there plastic gym trainin.
yung uns don't even know how to do a proper hip belay. PHSST!
Is pining for the days of adventure of yore mean you are really nostaligic, or you just realize at the top shape you were in, mental and physical, you really suck by today's standards?
Get off ma lawn ya lilly-livered young punks!
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
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Aug 16, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
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Where do V-hard boulder problems, some highball, fall on the bold continuum?
The pad people own the future of hard climbing in Tahoe. The golden, somewhat stylistic foggy age of roped climbing in Tahoe, is for the most part, past. See Ron's deep thread on the topic.
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burntheman
Trad climber
slt
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Aug 16, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
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Oh Sally, you almost make it sound like we have a history. I suppose a direct email wasn't enough to identify me. Perhaps a meet and greet would help the situation. Where you climbing on Saturday?
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 16, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
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Who you calling Sally?
Bryce, give a shout if you want to hit the boulders.
Ron, I'm betting you couldn't top out many of the v1's, not only because they are too hard, but because you would chicken out.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Aug 16, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
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Sure, they all drilled a sport route here and there where they deemed them fit.
And so, that is somehow OK cuz they did it 'back in the day', but not OK now?
Back when I did drive-bys, all we had were shotguns and 22s, today these young uns are using UZIs and AKs, and thats jus not right I tell ya!
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Blizzard
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Aug 16, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
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"pad people own the future of hard climbing in tahoe"
I agree that they own the future of hard climbing in tahoe less than about 20ft off the ground most of the time less than about 12ft. However I have a friend that is bouldering v10 in tahoe and developing new problems but if he follows anyone up corrugation corner 5.7 he is scared and refuses to lead the route. what does this say about climbing hard grades such as v10? do the number grades even do justice to the climb? Bachar-Yerian is 11c r/x yet people who climb 5.13 and up do not try it. all im saying is that yeah the pad people own "hard climbing numbers" but most of the boulderers developing new areas do not test themselves on trad. Which discipline is harder does not matter to me I am not trying to claim i own hard climbing in tahoe nor the future of it. I believe all aspects of climbing will contribute to its future.
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 16, 2013 - 03:14pm PT
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However I have a friend that is bouldering v10 in tahoe and developing new problems but if he follows anyone up corrugation corner 5.7 he is scared and refuses to lead the route. what does this say about climbing hard grades such as v10?
Well, it sounds like that "scared" feeling is how the "old and bold" define real climbing, regardless of difficulty... so he must be doing it right.
He makes it up (or could) Corrugation Corner, following or otherwise, right? But the vast majority of those who climb Corrugation Corner will NEVER EVER make it up a v10... EVER... no matter how hard they try. He has more climbing opportunities available to him than the average trad climber, assuming he finds someone to lead, which I'm sure he can... therefore, he wins.
As for the bouldering ive done, i never once used a "pad". And ive bouldered 30 plus footers. they were prolly v.25 ers.
More likely vB-
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 16, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
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You ASS ume
I've done Farley (didn't remember which one it was, had to look it up, clearly not THAT memorable of an experience for me). I've OS'd plenty of other tard climbs: Fracture, Taurus, OOTD, stuff I don't remember at High Energy Wall, Crystalline Dream, blah blah blah. You haven't done Upward Bound, v1... and never ever ever will... with or without pads.
So where is "snot" anyway?
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 16, 2013 - 03:34pm PT
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about v1, maybe v2.
You realize there are a bunch of Mitchell Canyons and Dog Valleys, right? Give me more specifics and I will go confirm the grade for you... as long as it isn't choss.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
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Aug 16, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
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A single person, the boulderer friend, example doesn't represent the whole group. There are definitely boulderers who can lead on gear.
Fact remains that turning a v10 boulderer into a solid 5.10 trad leader is much more plausible than a 5.10 gear leader ever sending v10, let alone v 5 or 6.
So now this discussion has evolved from trad v/ sport to trad v/ bouldering. What's next?
Ron, I said mostly over because there are exceptions, with Woodfords being the most obvious. BFE Nevada isn't Tahoe. Read deeper.
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 16, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
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It will always be old school "traditional" climb vs. everything else... just like it will always be old school conservative white "traditional" republicans against everyone else.
ironic old music
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Aug 16, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
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i never could climb past easy 12. 13 wasnt even a thought- i never wanted to work that hard.
... and there you have it. getting stronger does take work.
Yaniro crushed trad lines of the day then went FORWARD to sport climbing, rap bolting, hang dogging, and plastic training.
having said that, training methods common today, like plastic bouldering, were completely non-existant then, so getting stronger was logistically a lot harder.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Aug 16, 2013 - 04:25pm PT
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i chose not to hang dog crap i had no business on.
that is an arbitrary decision you and most of your generation made for yourselves, kinda like lycra.
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