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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 12, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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less bolts are better than more.
walk off.
place from stance.
run it out.
explore what you are made off,
and future generations may inherit the
opportunity to argue with evolution.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Aug 12, 2013 - 10:13pm PT
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may ur nuts keep u safe
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Aug 12, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
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Word
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 13, 2013 - 09:18pm PT
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Aug 13, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
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walk off.
The Gunks has had established rappel routes for the last 10 or 15 years that usually go right through good climbs. The walk off trails on the ridge are now overgrown in a lot of places. I hate this. My daughter and I were on a classic 5.5 two summers ago and I was belaying her up the first pitch when a couple of dipsh1ts throw their lines down right on top of me. They rap down, clip my gear at the belay and proceed to pull their ropes and run them for the last rappel. All of this with hardly a "do you mind?" and they fully expected me to tell them to continue on with my daughter climbing up the pitch.
Fvck them. I told them to hold their horses and wait for my daughter to finish the pitch. I thought they were going to sh1t their Patagonia climbing panties while they were waiting.
The Gunks are really beginning to wear thin on me... and I haven't even been drinking.
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 13, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
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Walking off most climbs will cause far more environmental damage than grid bolting 90 foot wall.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Aug 14, 2013 - 12:25am PT
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Perhaps...
But which causes more damage to our masculinity?
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Blizzard
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Aug 14, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
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"Walking off most climbs will cause far more environmental damage than grid bolting 90 ft wall"
Yah but doesn't driving your car to the crag do more environmental damage than both. a good trail helps prevent the damage known as erosion. all i know is I would rather walk off a bold climb than rap a grid bolted one. I agree with norweigan we need to start putting up bolder routes in and around tahoe area. trad ground up. however I don't mind convenience anchors for certain crags unless the walkoff is convenient as well. I disagree with the top rope bolts aka convenience anchors at 90ft but agree with the convenience anchors at woodfords. to me bolted anchors means more climbing less walking. i like convenience at crags if it means i get to climb more routes.
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 14, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
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But which causes more damage to our masculinity?
I have more than enough masculinity to go around.
Yah but doesn't driving your car to the crag do more environmental damage than both.
Doesn't matter. Once you are there you either rap a route you just climbed, or you thrash the vegetation and cause erosion scrambling down the gullies.
a good trail helps prevent the damage known as erosion.
If there is a good trail... which there most often is not.
all i know is I would rather walk off a bold climb than rap a grid bolted one.
Great... good for you... do it... have fun. But expecting everyone else to do what you would rather is a bit lame... especially when it causes more destruction than the alternative.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Aug 14, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
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i only solo naked during a full moon using no chalk or climbing shooz.
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burntheman
Trad climber
slt
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Aug 14, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
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KEEP TAHOE FREE OF SALAMANIZER
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Fletcher
Trad climber
The great state of advaita
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Aug 14, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
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Keep Tahoe Blonde.
Eric
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PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 14, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
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Rap routes at areas where there are not or have not had rap routes makes the place more dangerous the added danger of rock fall and noobs coming off the ends of ropes
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Aug 14, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
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the only issue with the ethics of climbing nekid is my balls are so huge, they sometimes get chafed by rock abrasion.
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 14, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
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duct tape
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Aug 14, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
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Weird all the references to 90' wall. The anchors are good there as it is mostly a place for top roping, and plenty of people go there to learn the sport or teach others. It's also a good place practice trad and get a first lead in. Rapelling down is easy and rarely affects others, and walking off causes no to little erosion since it's all on rock. It's also one of many areas in eagle canyon each of which offers different types of climbs (mayhem cove all sport, eagle lake cliffs a mix of sport and trad, and eagle creek trad with top roping options, eagles nest trad with anchors, plus the multi-pitch routes).
I understand the arguments here, just not sure why 90' is being mentioned, unless someone has been placing bolts there.
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 14, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
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Actually, I think there is two references to 90' wall. And I just threw 90' out because sport climbers I know are usually surprised that it isn't grid bolted... which would cause some Tahoe climbers to sh#t their pants in a fit of rage. Not saying it should be bolted, just saying it could have been... and it would not have increased the ecological impact one bit... in fact, it may be more ecological. And yes, there is erosion in the gully people use to access the anchors... and yes, it is affecting the vegetation.
MORE IMPORTANTLY: there is a large dead snag ready to launch off the top and onto the ledge above the climbs to the left. Doesn't look at all stable, so be careful up there.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Aug 14, 2013 - 04:17pm PT
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That large snag is nowhere near going, and walking up it is what keeps the non-rock part of the gully from seeing any erosion (or would if everyone did it). I will say that the snag does add a little danger as I have had gear catch on the branches when moving to set anchors.
taking this pic of my friend maggie rappelling down last friday i was sitting on the end of the log. at this point it is super stable
i definitely don't want to see it grid bolted either, but i think the top anchors are a big plus even if it does make it more crowded. keeps the crowds down elsewhere.
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DataMind
Social climber
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Aug 14, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
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Soon Tahoe will become a convenience-latent "adventure" land, were all you'll need is a rope on a few biners. Unless the locals take matters into their own hands.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 14, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
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Whatever you say gumby.
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