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Nosrekrulcm Ykrul
climber
a state of mind
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Cold wet and scared is no way to go through life, unless you are an alpinist...
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Dec 19, 2014 - 08:13pm PT
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need photos of Hyalite radness
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2014 - 06:00pm PT
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Plaid
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Rocky IV
Social climber
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Dec 21, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
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Cleo's still isn't really in. If you are open to considering other routes for your first WI5 put Responsible Family Men at the top of your list. Better position than Cleo's and I think better climbing. Plus, it's super fat this year!
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2014 - 08:04pm PT
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It's on the list now. Thx Rocky!
Plaid
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2015 - 07:45pm PT
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Great time in Hyalite.
The way we play the game is each day we swing leads as to who gets the first lead of the day.
I always count how many screws are placed on lead. I figure we are practicing so I place a lot of screws. I wanna be real good at it.
So here is the count and what we got done over the 8 days.
Day 1
Scott 13 screws
led Switchback and Fat Chance
Cleaned Switchback and pink point
Thin Chance
Rick 8 screws
Led Fat Chance and Thin Chance
Pink point Switchback
Day 2
Rick 4 screws
Rick led Dribbles p1 and p2 as one pitch
Scott 10 screws
Scott led Dibbles headwall in one 75m pitch to the rap tree.
Day 3
Rest Day
Day 4
Scott 9 screws
Scott led Elevator Shaft
Then top roped 3 variations and cleaned the anchor
Rick 7 screws
Rick led Elevator Shaft
Top roped 2 variations
Day 5
Rick 5 Screws
Rick led Hang Over
Scott 14 screws
Scott led Hang Over and G2 direct
Scott top roped G2 left side
Day 6
Met Dustin Nick and Matt
Scott 9 screws
Scott led Mummy 2
Rick followed and cleaned
Scott and Rick top roped
The Scepter
Day 7
Rick 10 screws
Rick led Champagne Sherbert
Scott 10 screws
Scott led Champagne Slot
Day 8
Got skunked. Palisade Falls was collapsed. Went looking for Alpha and Omega. Got lost. Ended up on main road. Joe Josephson, the author of the guide book "Winter Dance", recognized me by my hat, stopped and gave us a ride to our car.
Total this trip.
Scott 8 leads
Rick 6 leads
65 screws placed on lead for Scott to 34 for Rick.
Hiked about 25 to 30 miles to get to all the climbs.
Plaid
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Hoots
climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jan 20, 2015 - 08:11pm PT
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Right on Scott! Stoked that you got a good trip in. That Alex Lowe quote always seems to sum you up- the climber having the most fun. Good on ya!
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2015 - 08:20pm PT
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Thx Hoots! Yeah. If there is fun to be had. I'll find it for sure.
Plaid
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 20, 2015 - 08:33pm PT
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Nice plaid heading back with jack for his birthday on Presidents' Day. Gave me some ideas. Mike.
I thought mummy II was harder than dribbles. How were elevator shaft and champaign sherbet in comparison. Also have you done the fat one.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2015 - 08:51pm PT
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Mike
Dribbles was harder on the Headwall in the condition it was in. Not picked out. No feet. It was really hard. Mummy was easier for me. I was more dialed by then.
Elevator shaft was fat. No too picked out. The Fat One seemed not worth doing. Real short with long WI 2 finish. It's in your face to start, then it's over. Champagne Sherbert was hard but I didn't lead it. Champagne Slot and Sherbert were worth the walk. And Slight of Hand is one we didn't get to but is supposed to be off the hook WI4 fun according to Joe J.
Plaid
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Jan 21, 2015 - 08:39am PT
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Great trip Plaid! Thanks for sharing.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2015 - 10:14pm PT
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Thx WyoRockMan!
If I could climb ice all the time that is all I'd EVER do.
It is scream'n scary fun'!!!!
I place lots of screws but we always say don't fall!
EVER!!!
Led every climb with no rests. No takes. Cruised Em all.
Still didn't get the elusive WI5.
It was there. I'm almost ready. Leading WI4+ strong.
That lead on Dribbles was a long one. 75m. Good thing we had the 80m rope.
We had to break trail in neck deep drifted snow up hill, just to get to the base.
My partner was so pissed off. He melted down and threatened to turn around.
I took over breaking trail and screamed "YOU ...GOT ...TO ...REALLY ....WANT IT"!!!!
As I beat at the snow over my head as I pushed my way forward.
I almost needed a snorkel.
His lead first. I got the crux on the Headwall. He stole my pitch by linking the first two.
I didn't think I had it in me. But banged out the headwall in style. Then caught my breath and broke thru another drift of deep snow. I hoped it wouldn't slide out from underneath me.
I was ready to self arrest at any moment.
Sucked it up screamed "William Wallace"!!! At the top of my lungs and knocked out the final WI3 finish.
So good! Best climb of the trip.
Plaid
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