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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 31, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
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Anyone got the scoop? I am headed there tomorrow for a week of Plaid fun.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Dec 31, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
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Hyalite is pretty dry. Cody might be the better bet right now.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Dec 31, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
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get yourself some new tools dude. we're in the 21st century. And lose the wrist straps. and have fun - wish I was going.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Dec 31, 2012 - 08:40pm PT
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LOL, Mike so you ditched your Chouinard X-15's ...wasn't that what you use to roll with? What are you sporting these days?
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Dec 31, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
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No Couch, I had a Forrest "life time" set when I was at PSU. Sold them to a collector (Supertopo Duane) some years back and now have BD Vipers. Yea, I know, already dated, but plenty for me.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2012 - 09:53pm PT
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My partner has BD Fusions. We use the old school ones for the second and for an extra set. He let's me use the Fusion's for leading. Although I kinda like the leashes. I once took a fall and the leash caught the fall. It played hell on my wrist, but it was better than taking a spill on ice.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Dec 31, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
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Right Mike, the late Roger Smith (also partially a PSU guy), Smitty, rocked the X-15's. My bad, been 30 some odd years?
Have fun Plaidman!
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
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Rick and I have worked hard for this trip. We worked almost everyday for the last month. We are like kids on x-mas morn. SOOOOOOO excited!!!!
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bigwall shitter
Social climber
the wild west
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Dec 31, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
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ignore what the guy from Minnesota says. Hyalite is in great shape! Most stuff in the main fork is in great shape, check out the Winter Dance area, over easy (WI3), Curtains, and Slot corner (both WI4) are great introductions to the area and with the low avy danger right now should be a wonderful day out. If there isn't new snow you can make it all the way in the east fork road with a 4x4. It's a great season this year and you'll have a blast!
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 06:17am PT
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Thx bigwall shitter. We will take all the bets we can get. 4x4 with studs. Check. Badass ice tools and plenty of screws. Check. Awesome climbing partner. Check. It's 3:15 am, Alpine start. Check. Picking up my climbing partner at 4:00 am and we hit the road for a 12 hour ride to bliss. WAAAA HOOOOO!
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BMartin
Ice climber
Bozeman, MT
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The road to the east fork closes at the intersection to the main road on January 1st, unless there are cars stuck back there then they leave it open until folks get their vehicles out.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 11:41am PT
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How far we gotta hike if the road closes?
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
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OK, so you know, those of us less fortunate are now expecting a FULL TR of your adventures.
Have a blast! Hope you remembered the camera.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, plaidman...
have a great trip and may it be all you are hoping for!
:)
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
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Another 3 hours and we will be in Bozeman.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Yo, just missed you! Was there for 5 days prior.
It is freaking awesome!
Dribbles in great conditions (was very brittle on first pitch though, when we did it 3-4 days ago). I took the steepest line to the left of the wi3ish ramp that majority of people take on pitch 3 and made it into a wi4+ish pumper.
Cleopatra's Needle is in and cleaned out! I got to lead every pitch, including the wi5 pillar that does not touch down at the moment. Onsighted my first wi5!
Thrill Is Gone was onsighted yesterday. It does not have much ice through the middle but that's what makes it a mixed climb right? AWESOME climb. Kept me engaged throughout.
Hangover is in great shape.
G1 is good
G2 is ok. Picked out at the top
Fat Chance is fat.
Thin Chance is thin and picked out. Someone called it wi5 after leading it. I led it and thought it was wi4, just thin which makes it kind of scary. But you can hook a lot.
Mummy II was fat but wet
Scepter- one of the scariest leads ever for me. Climbing was not hard, but it was soooo shendeliered that i couldn't place screws that were confidence inspiring till half way up it. Place a screw, and it goes hollow after half way point. than on the upper part u swing and whole tool goes in almost with the head, cuz it bashed through thinish shendeliery sh#t. So I did more hooking and ran it out a ways on top too. Climb was not picked out 3 days ago. But I saw people on it yesterday, so good ice may be accessed soon, and big steps could be formed.
Fat One is fat. lol
Have fun.
PS: I have those same tools. Grievel Light Machines. But climb on cobras now.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
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Thx for all the beta. We will see what we can get done.
thx too to neebee. I will let u know how it went.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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You picked a cold week.....good uck and don't forget your gloves..
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Let us know!