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schwortz
Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
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Apr 25, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
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maybe we need a "supertopo sugarloaf topropes, sport bouldering, retros and chop-jobs" guidebook...we could include the forest service emergency hotline number in the ethics section...i think the history section is probably pretty well covered
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 25, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
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Yeah, who knows where this will end up.
I know I've seen areas in Europe Where routes were do close to one another, they had to label the bolts with color so you "stayed on route".
SLoaf has historically been bold. I think time has/will bring more moderate climbs... There is just too many climbers (mostly casual climbers, not lifestyle dirtbag climbers).
I think a group got a bit over zealous with the bolt gun, but I think they now have the message.
I hope to see more quality routes appear here and elsewhere.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 25, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
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GoMZ
Glad you enjoyed the chimney.
I'll take a look at the new anchors that have been added.
If they detract from it, I'll clean it up.
Thanks for the info.
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jstan
climber
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Apr 25, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
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An idle question.
Have we all decided Cave Rock gives us a good model for the successful management of our relations with the authorities responsible for public lands?
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Apr 25, 2012 - 04:21pm PT
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But the Indians needed Cave Rock to pray. Not to get drunk at and break bottles all over.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 25, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
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jstan
Answer to ur question is obvious.
That was before the Internet etc.
What is your answer to this issue?
Please don't say 5 guys in the woods beating the shite out of one another.... Way too many attorneys nowadays for type of behavior.
Maybe like Yosemite.... No power drills?
EDIT
Cave Rock was a tribal issue
Not public lands issue
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jstan
climber
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Apr 25, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
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But the Indians needed Cave Rock to pray. Not to get drunk at and break bottles all over.
Are you saying it is alright for us to do whatever we wish with public lands if someone else is doing the same?
That's the old, "If I don't do it, someone else will".
Edit:
G:
I have done a little looking at the history of Cave Rock. Correctly or incorrectly, I came away with the impression climbers obstinately refused to cooperate with the authorities, for years and years. (Just look at the attitudes in this thread for example.) Doing whatever they pleased. They may well have even been doing good things. But their actions denied anyone had any authority over those lands. So the appropriateness of their actions actually became moot.
It is my impression the Management District ultimately decided climbing could not be managed, and so would have to go. Climbers dealt themselves out of the game.
As best I can tell Sugar Loaf is a state park and you have to park along route 50. The state has little money for state parks and is closing some 59 of them. If I have this correctly, tell me climbers do not have a lot on the table here. The state could let a contract for towing parked cars and let the CHP budget absorb the cost of enforcement.
A win win.
Edit:
According to Ron
the Loaf itself sets squarely on Eldarado NF lands.
I stand corrected.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 25, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
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jstan
Wtf????
No idea where you came up with that...
Focus man
I'm not fighting you. I'm just asking.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Apr 25, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
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I'd cup your balls if you sat on a porcupine.
Now that was funny! LMAO
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 25, 2012 - 05:04pm PT
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I'd cup your balls if you sat on a porcupine.
That's the best idea so far! LOL
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Apr 25, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
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I don't know you Ron, or Rick Sumner, but every time you post it seems like your cupping his balls.
Why don't many old people have good grammar? My eyes bled trying to read Rick Sumner's posts.
seems like you're cupping his balls.
couldn't help myself.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 25, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
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I am not 100% certain, but I SLoaf may be private property.
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RonV
Trad climber
Placerville
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Apr 25, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
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I am 100% certain it is not a State Park.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Apr 25, 2012 - 07:14pm PT
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Out of my way, Throwpie. Lemme at 'im. My REAL name's Whillans!
And then I 'it 'im.
And I go commando.
Big grin for all of you "Loafers" out there. If it weren't for the fact I love the Leap I would have come to the Loaf much more often.
Two visits, total, one with Pie, I think.
Surprisingly, the Sugarloaf is as accurate a name as could have been used on this formation.
Check the history of sugar and you will see for yourself.
Throw a pie at me, willya? We'll see about that. Whoop whoop whoop.
Mouse, the 4th stooge
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Apr 25, 2012 - 07:26pm PT
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t*r
I took your advice. You actually shamed me into it.
I went online to check on volunteering and it ooooooooooopend my eyes.
Thanks for your spunky-speak. I bet that few more jerks have done the same, but just don't want to cop in public.
Too much time on hands (ALL SING) and too few fingers on my hand (ALL MOAN).
I like your style. Keep prodding.
Any body cares to challenge my grammar? The new Grampa, Throwpie, will have to be dealt with first.
A big hearty congratulations to you, Kid Throwpie.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Apr 26, 2012 - 10:58am PT
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I do so like the Loaf. I would like it to be in Applegate Park in Merced so that I could have it to play on daily. I would like to
"Pinch a Loaf."
Then there would be no controversy over friggin bolts because I can snipe anything in the Park from my apt. window.
Or maybe I could do the choppers in with pie. Did you never climb the Leap in the snow? I did. You puss!
Go walk on Tahoe, Jaysus H.
edit: mea maxima culpa...I get c_ntfrontational at the best of times, and this crap, chopping for the hardware, is pretty shitty. It's too small of an area at the Loaf; that is, it doesn't take much to screw it up. You are no puss. Rescind, recant, refill my coffee cup.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Apr 26, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
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Choke up on those Ron, especially the left. Give it a little squeezing, not too hard though.
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ImplicitD
Trad climber
Boise
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Apr 26, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
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I have a solution...BOULDERING and TOPROPING.
I developed lots of sweet boulder problems at the loaf...some highball and could be routes...in 2006-2007. I dont name my problems or publish silly bouldering guides. In my opinion, you cant own a rock just cause you put some effort into cleaning it and climbing it.
There is something truly beautifull about movement over stone...whatever the venue. Dont forget why you got into climbing in the first place. Be carefull that you dont let your ego dwindle the essence of climbing.
Climb naked and barefoot!
Directions to sweet problems. Name them for yourself. Have fun with it.
1. Go down pony express trail to right when it intersects with the trail to lots of boulders.
2. As walking up trail, there is a nice finger crack in a boulder and up to right from there is a nice 10+ crack traverse. Super sweet!
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Apr 26, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
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I have gnar gnar sunburn from the Leap last saturday. Everytime I rub the back of my neck, about 3 grams of dead skin rubs off onto my moist fingers.
Solution?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Apr 26, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
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i got flash sunburn on my balls
when i was takin a leak
from the last stance before
the crux of pony express
and a giant f*#king meteor
on fire blazed its glory
trot money shot
right over the sugar falic
spire of bread denomination.
my wife takes care of my cupping needs.
i cake her when she cups
and we together frost
sweet buns, er sugar loafs,
or.
maybe i should just go to the tetons.
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