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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 23, 2012 - 12:48am PT
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A recent spate of bolt chopping going on at Sugarloaf has some FA's very angry. Bolting wars and especially bolt chopping has always and will always lead to trouble that can spill over and affect all of us. I understand the US FS may be getting involved which will do none of us any good. "Hundreds of dollars" of bolts and anchors have apparently been taken.
At the very least I suggest the choppers re-imburse the cost of the hangers, anchors etc. to the FA's
I have always advocated that climbers who are pissed off about routes, bolts, anchors etc., should take it up with the FA. If that doesn't work and one feels that strongly, then do what you need to do, but give the sh#t back to them or pay them for it. Anything short of that just adds financial insult to injury and is construed as theft on top of route destruction
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Apr 23, 2012 - 01:07am PT
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grabbing the popcorn and sitting back to watch the fireworks...
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Apr 23, 2012 - 01:21am PT
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Way to keep it local...
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Apr 23, 2012 - 01:58am PT
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Hoping nothing people actually enjoy climbing got chopped including anchors used regularly.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Apr 23, 2012 - 04:05am PT
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Yeah, which routes got chopped?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Apr 23, 2012 - 09:09am PT
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i have made ample public (and personal to the perpetraitors)
complaints regarding some of the bolting that is literally littering
mount sugarloaf.
my discontent matures into action
only when i see bolts next to cracks.
the two cases being the naturally protectable chimney near sugarbun,
and then the convenience anchors on self abuse.
regarding the, what i see as a shite shower bolt population
reproducing like rats upon the many faces and boulders,
i can only shake my head in dismay.
but as i have stated before,
i do not get actively involved in the bolting disputes
related to ground-up versus rap bolting discourse.
i have a strong opinion upon this issue,
and that is the bolts should be placed on lead,
thus reducing their quantity and preserving the courage gene
that is endangered and barely still limping thru our circulatory course.
because i am not a first ascentor, rather im a crack punter,
and because i have not placed bolts on lead or otherwise,
i am not, in my opinion legitimately endowed.
to chop the bolts protecting face climbs.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Apr 23, 2012 - 09:18am PT
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Bolt wars were old and tired in the 80's. Just contact the dudes and keep it the f*#k off the internet.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 23, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
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Is the Loaf on private property?
I've heard differing comments about it.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Apr 23, 2012 - 03:46pm PT
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The idea that all bolts are good and that once some bolt makes it into the rock it's now somehow sacred is moronic in the extreme. If it's bullshit then chop it, own it, and post up that it's gone.
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Slinky00
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Apr 23, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
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"Hundreds of dollars worth" sounds like it was more than just a few bolts.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 23, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
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What got chopped?
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Apr 23, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
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Your poor little bolts hanging out next to cracks got chopped and
now youre crying about it on the taco - sounds like someone needs to call the wambulance!
Way to keep it local and stay classy!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Apr 23, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
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i suspect that aiden is
serving as spokesperson
for the irate parties.
aiden, did some of your routes get
chopped?
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dfinnecy
Social climber
'stralia
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Apr 23, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
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i have a strong opinion upon this issue,
and that is the bolts should be placed on lead,
thus reducing their quantity and preserving the courage gene
that is endangered and barely still limping thru our circulatory course.
well said Norwegian.
Of course, you can drill bolts on lead and still make a stupid, irresponsible trash pile of a route. Petch posted a photo recently illustrating how ridiculous things look to have become there. If I didn't laugh I would cry.
Not my crag, not my war, but I know what corner I'm in.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Apr 23, 2012 - 07:35pm PT
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I'm not aware of any grid bolting at SL.
Any chance it's a tweaker trying to make easy money off the steel bolts by rapping down them boulders? Maybe that a**hole from El Cajon moved up here...
If you're the chopper and reading this, hope you have a good excuse.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Apr 23, 2012 - 09:45pm PT
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I know of one for sure.
This route that just got chopped has been there for almost 4 years. They chopped 3 bolts and tried to remove a 4th Pound In but were unable to. So they left it after hammering it and bending the Hanger. They spent time and glued the holes. Because they glued the holes makes me think they did not do it to steal the $3 hangers. We rebolted this route yesterday with Pound In bolts. If it gets chopped again we will rebolt it again and again. The rules are not mess with others routes.
It was the first sport route 4 people I know led for the very first time including Jerry's wife. It was the first route my girlfriend ever led and she did what we call the Stink Bug Mantle. We always still joke about the Stink Bug Mantle. Jerry was so upset that he shut down his website last night that listed all the routes at Sugarloaf, Phantom Spires and other Highway 50 climbing areas. He feels that if the climbing community will do that, he no longer will do anything more for the climbing community. The removal of his website is a huge loss. The is the 2nd route we got chopped at Sugarloaf in the last year. It appears to be chopped by the same guy. I recognize the same glue he used. This guy will get shot if he is caught.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2012 - 09:45pm PT
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I do not know what routes, but I believe all on outlying boulders.
I'm not aware of any of my routes getting the chop?
I'm just the messenger fishing for the stolen gear to be returned which might calm the waters a little.
a
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Apr 23, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
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POSTED
"Bolt-chopping"
under any circumstances
is a misdemeanor
and
a no-no.
Penalties range from
a. Two tsks
b. A loud "uh-uh"
c. Being called a turd
to a very loud noise
and stink made by a craven and cowed
population of other climbers with no
balls.
AT SUGARLOAF?
Tsk-tsk, you naughty turds (belch).
Gent, some dedicated non-bolter ought to go up and "snipe" these thieves.
I might volunteer if one of you has a winterized white cammy set I can borrow. And a shovel.
Bolters are bad but choppers oughta be chopped.
Said it I have, and to it I remain attached.
My god, let's not force public servants to do what we wish them to do...
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Betelnut
Mountain climber
So. California
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Apr 23, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
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Agreed, Couchmaster. Some fisticuffs along Hwy. 50 would settle the matter faster than Internet banter.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 23, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
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So if u chop a route, you are obliged to then return the hardware to the bolter?
Why give the hardware to someone u feel is reckless with bolts????
C'mon people.... Really?
Edited
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