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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 24, 2011 - 03:59pm PT
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I think that slab climbing is difficult and requires developing special techniques which require a lot of practice. When I encounter slabby climbing on mult-pitch routes I manage to muddle my way thru- just! Perhaps if I lived in Cali I would, by necessity, climb more on slabs. I always respect all around climbers the most. If I have an Achilles Heal in climbing- slabs are it.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2011 - 04:26pm PT
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My advice is to spend time on the Apron working through the grades. The normal rules of climbing don't apply there...
What do you mean?
I always respect all around climbers the most.
+9999999999
Being one dimensional does not work in the mountains!
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hairyapeman
Trad climber
Fres-yes
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Nov 24, 2011 - 04:41pm PT
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Tollhouse rock is full of slab climbs rated from 5.6-5.11!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 24, 2011 - 07:58pm PT
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That you can fall and stop yourself, for instance...
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 24, 2011 - 10:22pm PT
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Runout on slab, is there anything else?
I found that one key element for slab climbing is the break-in of the new rubber which we call, "baby rubber." When the shoes first come out of the box the rubber has vertical groves (heel to toe) ground into them from the manufacturing process. For slabs, you need for those vertical groves to be eliminated, and for horizontal "scales" to develop. This occurs over a relatively short time especially if you're climbing slab already. When this baby rubber is gone the shoes double their performance for friction. A flatter, less tight shoe, as opposed to an aggressive, tight, down turned shoe, performs much better, for you can drop the heel and get a greater amount of rubber on the rock, hence better friction. Pick on Henny's brain for impeccable technique! I've been told by the master that I have a pretty high-speed pair of Scarpa's, I couldn't agree more!
Hey Henny, do you remember the style of Scarpa I have, the purple ones with green eyelet strips. I keep forgetting.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Nov 24, 2011 - 11:09pm PT
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Marc Leclerc on a 5.12 slab in Squamish
Heels down definetly does not apply on the harder stuff.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 24, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
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If you are edging, obviously not. But if you are working dishes or scoops, even on steeper angled terrain, lifting your heels certainly doesn't help purchase or traction. The more difficult the moves; the more precision, careful weight distribution and deliberate momentum are required.
Lots of variables which is the beauty of it...
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 24, 2011 - 11:35pm PT
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Yep, I just ticked, for the first time, a "hard" Santee friction problem on the No Hands Traverse boulder, which, although steep, required me to keep my heels out, perpendicular to the rock, and smear a shallow, toe-sized pocket, keeping my butt out over my heels. Keeping your hips close to the rock, as is required when edging, is definitely out!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 24, 2011 - 11:38pm PT
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It is far less fatiguing to stand on the outside of your foot than on the inside of the great toe and easier to maintain inward pressure on your holds. A great footwork tip from Slab Master Kevin!
Play around with your boot orientation to get the most from your edges and spread the wear around.
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mctwisted
Social climber
slacker city
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Nov 25, 2011 - 12:06am PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 25, 2011 - 12:13am PT
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Tasty lookin' McNubbins too!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Nov 25, 2011 - 11:13am PT
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Gary, not sure I remember exactly, but I think you have a pair of Phantoms.
I have a preference for Scarpas because they fit my foot well. Older models that is, since I don't think they make a good edging shoe anymore.
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bob
climber
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Nov 25, 2011 - 11:25am PT
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Big Mike "Heels down definetly does not apply on the harder stuff." I agree unless its all going to sh#t and you just gotta start running to hope for the best! I want all the rubber I can get when things get that bad! :)
Warbler : Had to use that technique on some route up there in Tenaya!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Bob J.
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John Duffield
Mountain climber
New York
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Nov 25, 2011 - 11:33am PT
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Slabs are an excellent mental exercise V-Man!! Esp at this point at what looks like to be an excellent climbing career for you.
On other climbs, you may have that bomber hold here and there. The one that lets you mentally relax. A slab, you may be at your mental edge for hours. No let up. Having to counterintuitively push against the rock. When the organism wants to cling to it. Putting your hands upside-down! Proper foot placement. Really great mental training.
The fact that you start this thread, would seem you've grasped this. Good for you.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 25, 2011 - 11:43am PT
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Slab climbing is becoming a lost art.
Lots of climbers today just wish to go to where it's steep and the holds are huge.
I love the climbs at the ORG that have slab moves at the top.
Those last 25 feet of 10d can really mess with your 12a redpoint!!!!
Vitaly you don't really need any TIPS on the subject.
Just get out and find some low angle slick stone, with tiny holds and climb.
This thread is missing photos:
This Dude is really showing the "I don't know what is keeping me here...but I should just keep on moving up... hopefully it will get better.
This over weight dude is Stinkbugging. Looks so low angle, not worth really climbing.
This is how the bolts get there.
Some pretty great slabbin up ahead.
This is a Slab.... do this one.
I always think that there are only Two types of climbs.
The ones you can do and the ones you cant do.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Nov 25, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
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this slab was talking to me.
it was pretty cordial, as slabs go.
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John Duffield
Mountain climber
New York
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Nov 25, 2011 - 01:53pm PT
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At one point, I counted 13 boats pulled up to watch.
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hairyapeman
Trad climber
Fres-yes
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Nov 25, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
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At one point, I counted 13 boats pulled up to watch.
WOW! Where is this? Courtright?
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Nov 25, 2011 - 04:09pm PT
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Tips (5.10a) on Daff Dome, South Flank.
I guess its not so much a frictions slab as just a bit of technical edging.
My first ever slab lead was Reality Check on Silver Cascade Slab in CO Springs. What an eye opening experience!
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