le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 26, 2018 - 03:05pm PT
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^ Amen Warbler. The two climbs I've tried and failed to lead clean the most have got to be Waverly and Five & Dime. I finally got Waverly on my fourth lead attempt (plus who knows how many laps on mini), still haven't gotten Five & Dime and no plans to go back, too many other things to flail on.
Below is a pic of the dreadful f*#king metal that is After Six p1, from January of this year. IMO it's harder than After Seven, harder than any pitch on the Nutcracker unless you do the 5.9 start. Probably harder than anything on Braille Book, imo. Probably less secure in spots than most of the 5.9 stuff I've done at the Five Open Books. Metal!
I lead it this day, feeling less than secure most of the way. First time I'd been on it since my first trip to the Valley. Daughter who doesn't even know how to jam yet cruised it after me w no sweat, though @ 55 lbs I wouldn't have known if she'd weighted the cord.
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