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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 9, 2011 - 08:44pm PT
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There -- I said it. What d'ywanna do, break me down?? I'm scared. I never look forward to being the "rope gun" on this. Have led it eight or nine times now, there's always fresh n00b blood to spook me. And don't get me started about that suspect mank "pro" in the overhead crack. And yes -- I always bail up and to the right rather than stay right in the crack.
Feel better now.
Until I have to lead it again.
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The Guy
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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like
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
bay area, ca
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It's hard to feel solid in a sandbag. 5.7 my ass.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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that thing always had a tree in it that we would use in the 70's. it really felt 5.6 bitd. is the tree still there?
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Marv, I think we've done some good work today. Now it's out in the open. : ) Tomorrow we can discuss how I never feel solid checking into camp 4. Pinkie seems to put me off my game. There, I said it! : )
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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That pitch bites! slippery, insecure, it is best avoided.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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I drove from Tucson
and bouldered
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
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not having a "partner" I "soloed" in Camp 4
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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I stalked Ron Kauk in the boulders for like an hour one day gathering the courage to go up and introduce myself. I pretended to "bump" into him....then said something stupid like...."are you Ron?" Like it was a question.
The confessional part.....I wasn't sixteen, I was 27.
He was super cool by the way and made me feel like he was interested in what I was blathering on about.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Ok....that last post felt good.
I'll also admit that I did the same thing to Dean Potter last year in the cafeteria.
What a loser I am.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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That pitch bites! slippery, insecure, it is best avoided.
Haha! I agree, Jaybro.
The f*#ker is greased out. Maybe 5.8 now. Almost better to go on the face and take yer chances there.
And the Wasp nest that is seasonal can really f*#k with you! I almost ripped when I saw that! The f*#kers were buzzing my head!!
That's when I bailed right, on the face. That rig is overrated anyway nowaday. Do the C.S. Concerto start.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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I got crabs from the tuolumne campground bathrooms-unlike the mud falcon demo thread, I'm not shitting you
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Mar 10, 2011 - 12:05am PT
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I forgot a bag of peppermint patties in my rig and a bear peeled the door off like a sardine can and mauled the seats looking for them.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Mar 10, 2011 - 12:09am PT
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I got crabs from the tuolumne campground bathrooms-unlike the mud falcon demo thread, I'm not shitting you
Now that right there is beta......
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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Mar 10, 2011 - 12:11am PT
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I don't understand the need for confessionals. You do what you do.
F*#k them if they don't like it.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 10, 2011 - 12:41am PT
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A scary pitch isn't it ......
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Mar 10, 2011 - 01:10am PT
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pictures?
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 10, 2011 - 01:19am PT
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Mar 10, 2011 - 01:49am PT
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Felt harder than the first pitch of After Seven, whatever thats worth. After seven felt 5.7, solid, with good gear. I led it when I certainly wasn't climbing much harder than that.
Confessional: I bivied, then bailed, 2 pitches up the trip (virginia start, boo yeah...)
I took a lead fall on Harry Daley
Took a lead fall on pitch 1 of Jamcrack
got to the crux of the tree route at Bishops terrace, where you get to .10 territory, and aided up it. Didn't even fall that time.
What doesn't kill you.....
also I slept with Tommy Caldwell, but he was super drunk. Probably doesn't even remember it. The Hubers were there too, they provided the hamster.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
bay area, ca
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Mar 10, 2011 - 01:53am PT
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I told Tommy Caldwell that I loved him when I ran into him at the base of El Cap. I also said "I know this is awkward but..." right before I told him.
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