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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Apr 19, 2015 - 09:35pm PT
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I second that, whoa! The 3rd photo is unreal looking as you said.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Apr 19, 2015 - 09:43pm PT
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I remember Dale Bard saying after the FA that the third flare pitch was "heinous". Think he said something about a fall into space too.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Apr 19, 2015 - 10:45pm PT
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Oh yeah more pics please!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2015 - 08:05am PT
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robSJ- Thanks for posting the sought after photos of this route!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Apr 20, 2015 - 08:58am PT
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Obvious bitchin'ness has fallen upon RobSJ for throwing down some pix!!
Upthread Splitter said something about being surprised that there hadn't been a 2nd ascent, but he wasn't paying attention, as there have now been at least FOUR ascents.
1)Bard/Meyers
2)Dogtown Squad
3)Shipley Squad
4)And Rob With The Large Cajones And Actual Pix Squad.
Thanks Rob!! More pictures please!!
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robSJ
Ice climber
san jose
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Apr 20, 2015 - 09:00am PT
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I found most of the climb to be of very high quality with fun, exposed and safe climbing. Unfortunately, the crux is quite severe. There are 4 sections of it. Right off the belay you have to do a 5.10+ offbalance lieback sequence to get to the flare. The gear here is awkward as you have to lean really far forward to see into the crack while trying not to barndoor left over the edge! Pretty exciting! Once in the flare, you can get a few good pieces but I had to use every trick in the book to wiggle my way up it. Heel toes, knee bar, arm bar, chicken wing, butt smears and head jams. Very awkward and desperate. Once you get past the flare, you think its over but there are 2 more very serious sections. The first involves a 2ft wide 20ft long 5.10 friction ramp. Wall to your right and 2000ft drop onto the death slabs on the left. For pro before committing to this section, I equalized the smallest BD (bodyweight only?) nut and tied off KB that I'm sure Dale Bard himself placed in 1975. Rusty, flexing and half sticking out. After reaching the top of the friction ramp, theres a good stance. Here you get some good pro, but you have to run it out from there doing fun 5.11- crimps and liebacks with tiny dime edges for feet. A fall here would send you whipping into a jagged corner. After this you get to a thank-god 5.7 jam crack that leads to a huge lay-down belay ledge.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Apr 20, 2015 - 09:09am PT
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Sweet. Something you'll remember forever!
Was it cold? And how long did it take you?
Edit:
Also, what was your thought process in choosing this route? Were you having a badassery/testosterone attack? The allure of the mostly unknown? Bitten by the wide scary teetsie fly virus?
You must be pretty damn confident in your skills to hike all the way up there.
Who was your partner, and what did he/she think of the following? Did you swing leads or did you lead most of it?
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robSJ
Ice climber
san jose
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Apr 20, 2015 - 09:59am PT
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We had perfect weather! Because of the aspect of the route we were in the shade most of the day. Around 2pm the sun creeped around the corner to get us.
Definitely experiencing the unknown was a big factor in choosing the route. Seeing pics in this topic made it look like an incredible, natural line that for some reason(i know for sure why now) got neglected over time.
I led the whole route with my friend who had never climbed any routes on HD. Maybe not the best decision, but she is strong and psyched and has a great can-do attitude. She jugged the crux and had a hard time cleaning in the flare. She left a few nuts behind, so for the next party...you're welcome :) She really enjoyed free climbing all the other pitches though!
As far as gear, we brought up to #3, and placed it a few times, but its definitely not necessary. I would say doubles to 2" and possibly triples in the smallest sizes. RPs would have been very useful.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Apr 20, 2015 - 10:08am PT
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The right side of Half Dome is incredibly steep.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 20, 2015 - 10:11am PT
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Super happy you posted these here Rob! When I saw your FB post, first thing that came to my mind was I should encourage him to post it in this thread! I remember checking this thread out and having the desire to do this route. 11b flare...sounds interesting ! :)
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Apr 20, 2015 - 10:58am PT
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I've been really curious about this thing too, thanks for sharing, now I know there's no way I'm ready!
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Apr 20, 2015 - 04:51pm PT
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whoaa - respect !! sounds like a heads up route
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Apr 20, 2015 - 05:52pm PT
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I'm surprised Dale whipped off of CC. He was climbing quite a bit harder routes by then, I think.
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Apr 20, 2015 - 09:09pm PT
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I have always wondered about this route , it seemed way out there.
Indeed it is , thank you for posting those pics and giving us a taste !
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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Apr 21, 2015 - 07:49am PT
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Sounds like a proud line. Way to get after it
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 21, 2015 - 07:51am PT
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Sweet, thanx for all this - nice!
Wait a bit that modifier has been over-used this threads climbin' stuffs the stuff to bank and plan on!
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PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Apr 21, 2015 - 11:29am PT
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Should I buy a fingerboard or a cajones board to train for this climb?
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Apr 21, 2015 - 07:31pm PT
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Thanks for the report on a route a lot of us have wondered about for years. 5.11 flared chimney to 5.11 crimps, a perfect route for Bardini, who was a master of every type of climbing.
Here is shot of Dale from that same year. Imagine the nightmare of falling off on the lead and being suspended over the Northwest face in a swami.
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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Apr 21, 2015 - 10:25pm PT
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So whats up when a free route sounds like it still needs a hammer and pins in 2015?
Interesting to think about the bOLD School climbs that push the limits of whats possible / safe, then get climbed by maybe four climbers in the next forty years. What kind of first ascent is that? Good for the climber? Good for the community? Certainly impressive.
Is it preferable to make safe routes that lots of people can enjoy?
Or are we just limited by our modern conception of what we consider an acceptable level of risk?
Depending on the day I could see it either way, and I guess we can have both kinds of routes.
Please don't slander my ideas, just my climbing...
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 21, 2015 - 10:57pm PT
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ryankelly, if a route is done on hammer and pins 50 years ago and still needs them today than people will use hammer and pins. Usually people try to climb the routes that have gone on clean pro without hammer and pins, but if the route have not gone clean and is not getting frequently done clean, than hammer and pins will be used. But why is that relevant? The guy that climbed the route now did not use hammer and pins and I think the other guys prior used passive pro?
There are MANY routes out there that are unrepeated, even though totally safe. This route has not seen many ascents because of it obscure nature and because not many people have the skills to do a spicy 11b flare. How many annual ascents does the Salathe route on HD get? Not many. Why? Because it is obscure and the crowds are not going unless they see other people on it, or hear something good about it. I mean damn, there are many obscure routes at the freaking cookie cliff that are done like once in 4 years. Lack of information is the cause.
Bridwell should go retro-bolt it and post a trip report with 30 photos, topos and route overlays and it will be popular. :)
As far as is it better to make safer routes? No. It is up to the individual doing the FA. If he has the skills to run it out and does not want to place a bolt, it is his decision. If he wants to come back and add one to encourage traffic that is great too. I think there is room for all sort of routes. I don't think anyone will run out of routes to do any time soon...
Would love to slander your climbing, but you have no TRs up :( :)
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