Discussion Topic |
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 29, 2009 - 12:31am PT
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Has anyone done this 5.11b flare and chimney problem with big air on the right edge of the northwest face? It was first done by Dale Bard and George Meyers back in 1975. Not very many designated 5.11 chimneys that aren't considered offwidth problems. This one has always been intriguing.
Topo from the yellow Meyers guide.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Nov 29, 2009 - 12:36am PT
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Damn if I wasn't looking at/thinking about this route this autumn!
I bet the number of ascents could be counted on one hand. I always wondered if the route is ON the very edge or just near it.
Would LOVE to hear more about this little obscurity!
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Nov 29, 2009 - 12:48am PT
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Hey, Steve
Yes, Dave Tyler and I did It in 94. I have some old prints of it I think?
Fun route with a great veiw.
Dogtown.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Nov 29, 2009 - 12:50am PT
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Woot Dogtown! I gotta see those! Tell us a story...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2009 - 12:51am PT
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That was quick! Cool..
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 29, 2009 - 01:34am PT
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thought about it during this time of OffWidthness, don't know anyone in the extended group here that has done it... which is saying alot, actually... one hand is probably enough for the repeat count.
Would definitely like to get scared looking at Dogtown's images!
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Nov 29, 2009 - 02:12am PT
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Well,
Not much a story to tell, one year before, Dave and I were up routing around and saw the line. Never gave it much thought myself. We had been doing a bunch of wide back then, two years before I lead final. And other wide stuff at home. which makes the whole thing a bit more strange. ( He hated wide.) He said to me ; Do you remember that line on Half The Edge? Yeah. We should do it. Ok. And He led every pitch. It truly didn’t seem like a big deal at the time. But now looking back, It is a fairly spectacular line.
Dawg.
P.S. Ed,I'm looking. (Slides)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 29, 2009 - 02:51am PT
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Post up post haste, Dawg!
The cmpd wasn't the same without you this year...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 29, 2009 - 10:16am PT
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hey there say, ... sure hope some more folks step in here, to share... :)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nov 29, 2009 - 10:57am PT
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Shipley & Stu Ritchey did it in the 80's.
Yielded the standard Walt thriller-tell.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 29, 2009 - 11:06am PT
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I was in camp when Dale and George came back from doing the FA. Dale was of course all smiles as he knew they had bagged a significant route right out from under everyone else's noses. They described it as really novel and pretty hairy with the exposure and situation. A quality route and very energetic and creative of them to put it up. George shuddered about the hard pitch. It was not clear if he actually was able to follow it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
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Peter- I figured that yourself and Werner were going to be the only responding parties on this one especially given the novelty of this particular line. Sounds like a half dozen ascents is pretty likely!
Any need for the pitons listed in the posted description or are they fixed?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Nov 29, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
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Yeah, Dogtown, get them pictures up!!!!!!
We want more!!!!!!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Nov 30, 2009 - 10:37am PT
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Bump!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 30, 2009 - 10:43am PT
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Looks like a job for trhe BAWC!
If we can push our walkers that far!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 30, 2009 - 12:24pm PT
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Jay,
I don't think this is actually an offwidth. I am remembering it was more wild flare and strenuous and complex. Maybe a small crack in the back. Not sure. Somebody contact Dale or George.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2009 - 12:30pm PT
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Mountain #31 and Ascent have it in its own category which is part of the allure. We should be able to check it out here pretty soon.
Got Stealth rubber on that walker there Seeker?!?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 30, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
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I'm a gonna jump down the biggest goddman hole any body's been in- in a stealth suit.
I'm not a strict adherent to definitions, Peter, thing just sounds cool! I love chimbly's too.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Nov 30, 2009 - 09:35pm PT
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Bump this puppy, I wanna see pictures from someone, pleeeeeezeeeee
!!!!!!!!
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Nov 30, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
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waiting on Dogtown Slides!!!
Bumoping in the hopes of seeing them...
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