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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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I feel pretty sure that the photo Glenn posted of Dick Culbert is Mayday in what we now call Bulletheads North. FA Culbert and Barry Hagen, 1968, according to McLane 2005. The line is shown in that guide on p. 237 with the position in Glenn's photo just below the black-boxed numbers 52 and 53.
The photo Glenn posted:
Here is where I think Culbert is in the above photo:
And an overall view showing the same location:
And a climb also off Turkey Ledge:
Climber in above shot is here, fairly close to where Dick Culbert is in Glenn's photo:
The McLane guide says that Mayday followed what is now Fight Club. Would have been what Kevin calls, "a fine situation, indeed."
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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9,000!!!!
And to make it more than just grabbing 9K here's a (crappy) photo of another Squamish first ascent.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Thaks, Andy. Seems pretty conclusive.
Glenn
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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And we're back over 9,000 posts, again.
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Arti
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 19, 2017 - 11:46am PT
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For all the BC/Pacific NW Mountaineering buffs: the Varsity Outdoor Club has published a coffee table book chronicling the 100 year history of the UBC student club exploring the Coastal Mountains and beyond. It's currently available for order from the UBC bookstore or pick-up in a few places. We're also looking for more stores to sell it going into the holiday season.
I know a few Topo regulars have a copy; I'd love to hear what y'all think of it!
Antics, Epics and Escapades Preview Pages
The Varsity Outdoor Club has turned 100. To celebrate the rich history of the clubs wilderness (mis-)adventures we’ve independently published the best of our collective stories from the last century into one beautiful coffee table book.
The VOC has been intimately tied with the history of hiking, skiing, mountaineering and exploration of Southwestern British Columbia and beyond. From building a wooden cabin on the untamed wilds of Grouse Mountain (in the 1920s), to the first ski crossing of the now ultra-classic, “Neve Traverse” in Garibaldi Park, to modern adventures pushing how far and how fast we can go.
Each chapter explores the decades from 1917 to 2017, combining primary written accounts, stunning photos and oral histories of the members into a larger unfolding narrative of the ever-evolving relationship between adventurers and nature.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Oct 19, 2017 - 12:02pm PT
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Who or what was the motive force behind that?
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Arti
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 20, 2017 - 06:58am PT
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The VOC has published an annual journal since 1958 so a centennial coffee table book felt like the right way to mark the occasion and celebrate our little bit of history.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Oct 20, 2017 - 08:02am PT
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Thanks for the reply. I did not at first notice the blue colour link. There I found a "written by" attribution for some of the text, plus fine photos including one of Anders on U Wall. It seems appropriate not to worry too much where credit is due since a club is a collective.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 30, 2017 - 07:05am PT
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Posted originally elsewhere on ST -- courtesy of The Flames.
"Tami Knight Squamish Crag Profile - Alpinist 43"
A tour de force of course. One would expect no less from an ACC award-winning journalist/illustrator such as Our Tami.
In wordiness is the preservation of history, to borrow a phrase, but it's not true here. Every ancecdote and fact is a nugget unto itself.
Enjoy and profit from this, please.
I don't mind saying that scanning this was a "hard day at the office" for me. A virus in my computer won't let my normally efficient scanner copy at an effective rate and so I need to turn the computer off after every scan and begin the process again. Kinda like soloing, was what I thought. So I sat and sat and scanned and scanned and then, when done, did a link-up of sorts by having to upload these pages and then put them in the correct order here. I'd have done it quicker had I not gotten "off-route" by not scanning page 52 initially.
I'd also like to say that I've always had a hankering to visit Howe Sound and would like to thank Big Mike for laying this copy of Alpinist on me at Facelift.
Cheers to all the Stawamites of ST! Merry Christmas, as well.
MFM
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pixel
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Dec 19, 2017 - 12:18pm PT
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Exasperator, December 14. What a great dry spell!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 27, 2017 - 10:51pm PT
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Last year was a slow one for this thread. Only 258 posts, including this one. However we did manage to break 9,000--twice!
Here's a couple of historical references to end the year with:
In 2016, to commemorate the 100th ascent of Bugaboo Spire, the on-line version of Gripped Magazine had an article called "The 10 Greatest Canadian Ascents in the Last Century".
In 2017, to commemorate Canada's 150th birthday, this article was changed a little, and became "12 Great Canadian Ascents From The Past 150 Years".
Locally, the University Wall (1966) FA T. Auger, D. Tate, G. Woodsworth/Tricouni, H. Mutch/hamie and the Waddington Range Traverse (1985) FA D. Serl, P. Croft, G. Foweraker/Frostback made both lists.
The 2017 list and article can be viewed at the Gripped on-line site. Click on profiles, and June 30.
Hoping to see more photos and stories in 2018.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 28, 2017 - 05:33pm PT
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Thanks for the info, hamie.
The thread may be slow but it hits some high points.
Looking forward to 2018, but just before we get there:
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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U Wall Drool wasn't in at all climbable shape Dec 29. Nobody got the first ski descent of Diedre either.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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An ascent of the first summit of the Chief on Monday afternoon, with a BCMC group. Ten total, advertised as a "mystery trip". The objectives being some exercise, fresh air and companionship, plus to see the sunset and moonrise on the full moon closest to the winter solstice. I've done it three times in the past eight years, usually on my own. (2009, 2011, and 2015.) On five of the last nine occurrences it has been clear enough to see - probably fewer than 20% of winter nights in Squamish are clear.
In fact, it was feasible in 2009, 2011, 2015, 2016 and 2017, which seems rather improbable. But I missed 2015, and the two of us who went last year had Arctic conditions, and could not wait for the official moonrise.
Timing is of course everything, and the moon likes a little variability in when and where he rises. But the internetz revealed that moonrise on Monday was to be at 16:29, that is minutes after sunset. But moonrise based on the deemed rather than actual horizon, so the question was how long he would take to peep above the mountains on the horizon. (In old English, the moon was a male-gendered noun.) At any rate we had a nice walk, then did a happy moon dance while waiting for him to rise.
The first two times, sunset and moonrise were closer together, and so the pink fingers of the sun were caressing Garibaldi as the moon rose.
By a once in a blue moon coincidence, there will be another full moon on the night of January 30th/31st. Moonrise then at 16:22, sunset at 17:04, so there are scenic possibilities. There will also be a lunar eclipse at 05:29 the next morning, just before sunrise. Still, it might be fun to see.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Holy Smokes!
Dan Mannix
John Clothier
Perry Beckham
etc.
Hope there isn't some curse on it, where we die on our next climb.
But thanks!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 10, 2018 - 02:53pm PT
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nothing but a bunch of crickets on the ol history jam..
Too bad.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 10, 2018 - 03:42pm PT
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Did you check the number of views before and after?
When I saw your post, I went to the vid and it had had 115 views. Just now I see 779.
The crickets may chirp but they also see.
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grover
climber
Castlegar BC
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Jan 10, 2018 - 04:27pm PT
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Ha, Ive got that film on vhs!
Classic!
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