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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 11, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
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I think Anders is talking about one of those routes above Broadway.
I tried to lead one of those in the 70's when I was over my head, and about half the height of Peter (Croft). I climbed up about forty or fifty feet, trying to get to the first bolt, screwed up, started sliding down the slab. The rope was building up quickly at Peter's feet, so he dropped the hip belay, reached out and grabbed me as I was about to impact the ledge. Just grabbed me like a runaway sack of potatoes. More exciting than grade 8 gym class, that's for sure. That may have been pre-grade 8 actually. And, speaking of shoes, those would've been used Val D'ors. Kinda orangey-leather jobs, I think. Cutting edge,'78.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Mar 11, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
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Just bought a nice fresh pair of La Sportiva TC Pro's for the Squam cracks. Looking forward to trying them out when I get back from Bishop and Smith Rock. See ya later suckas!
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 11, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
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is it good style to rest on a bat hook to drill a bolt, or is that just consider mediocre style?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 11, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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is it good style to rest on a bat hook to drill a bolt, or is that just consider mediocre style?
Mediocre. Good style is when your lycra tights match the color of your rope, and you rest on your Grigri to drill. Or your jumars, if the rope is fixed all the way to the bottom.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 11, 2012 - 03:54pm PT
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BK; OMGosh , I just googled bong... My goodness. I was clearly referring (Reefering?) to the large pitons, not those bubbly glass devices commonly used by those long haired, oatmeal eatting hippies
MrHarris; my question was directed towards FA style, not fashion styles. Geezes.
Ander; hope you werent offended by my hummingbird joke, sorry, I have nothing but the upmost respect for everything you've contributed to the climbing community :)
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 11, 2012 - 04:14pm PT
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If you started to drill the bat hook, why not just keep drilling?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 11, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
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How did a hummingbird come into the story? I usually don't follow the "birds" thread - those twitchers are way too aggro for me.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
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I think it was because of your wing flapping MH :)
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 11, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
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Thanks for backing me up tami! ;) Have you ever bolted on the sharp end? If so tell us a boot it eh!
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 11, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
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Really Tami? So you're saying it is common practice to drill a bat hole and then drill another hole for a bolt? Never heard of that...
Clearly we are not talking about stance bolting then, perhaps shitty stance bolting?
Stance bolters like Bacher and The Kid (Kurt Smith, not you Luke) wouldn't of stooped that low I'm sure, and absolutely none of the bolters back in Oz where I'm from would dream of that. If you drill it, fill it.
Bat holes suck, I promise I will cut my arms off if I ever think of drilling one.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 11, 2012 - 09:31pm PT
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I think we,re talking about slab stance bolting with a hand drill
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 11, 2012 - 09:51pm PT
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Exactly what I'm talking about too, I extra surprised that bat holes even get mentioned when it comes to slab bolting?....
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 11, 2012 - 10:08pm PT
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You come to our country, drink our craft beer, and presumably our maple syrup, and now you criticize our historical climbing ethics.. Shame on you mister fishbowl, shame!
Have you given any thought to the naturally lichen and moss covered rock that characteristically defines Squamish... That same lichen that provides sub-adequate friction and will quickly fill in bat holes on lower angle routes..
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 11, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
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It seems illogical to drill two holes when one will do. Your bit wont last long.
The two types of bolting of lead I was aware of are stance bolting which is/was very common, and bolting from a hook over an edge. Drilling
convenience holes I thought was the domain of equipping steep sport routes, but perhaps you Canuks do things a little differently.
No need to pick on the Aussie, we are all citizens of the world, and some of us have climbed in many other places than just Squamish....insular views breed odd habits...
;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 11, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
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Robbins shoes on White Lightning, especially the second pitch, might actually help. Quite a lot of the part above the roof is micro-edging, and pure friction is less usual on Squamish's Apron than the other one. But the shoes had to fit rather snug for best results. As one of the hardcore once wrote "Damn Robbins and his tight blue shoes!"
Bat hooks were used to help place bolts on at least two routes on the Apron, White Lightning and Dream On. Bolts placed on lead, sustained climbing, so something was needed for stability. It doesn't blunt the drill very much.
Slab climbs, and the location of protection on them, can be hard to understand with sticky rubber. Placing the bolts on lead, with EBs or even RRs, before the rock was all clean, was sometimes rather a challenge.
ps Am I flapping?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2012 - 12:11am PT
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Not your gums, your arms in the picture I posted oh so many moons ago :)
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Mar 12, 2012 - 02:02am PT
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No sh#t it's not common....don't get your panties in a bunch dear...
You said "Doh", as if it was an obvious thing to do, as if one should have known that was what happened. Not answering questions straight can lead to all sorts of misconceptions.
My most sincere apologies.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 12, 2012 - 03:43am PT
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From what i understand, when ppl used to drill a "hole" for a hook it wasn't exactly a "hole", it was a small indent, maybe 5-10 whacks, just so you could get the hook on & take a bit of weight off to drill the actual "hole", these pilot holes are not exactly something you could fill with anything.....or even see anymore for that matter. Not saying it is a right or wrong ethic but White lightning is a highly memorable, classic climb so no big deal IMO- especially considering the millions of rap bolts next to cracks placed in squamish since those days. Not complaining, i'll clip those too!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 12, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
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I heard of subvariations. One was simply to start drilling. Once the drill got in a short distance, it provided something of a hold - or at least you could fool yourself into believing that if your feet slipped, the drill would provide a desperation hold. (Drills are quite brittle, sadly.) Another was the bathook routine - fire in a quick, shallow hole with a sharp lower lip, hook onto it. Perhaps you could put a tieoff around the drill, and clip it as a backup, but drills can get fairly warm, and it could melt.
I never tried any of them. For my few slab routes, I just ran it out until there was somewhere to stand.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 12, 2012 - 01:08pm PT
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Did you rest on the drill during aQofB anders? or did you tough out the leg pump and send it?
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