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micro_marc
Gym climber
Squamish
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Aug 31, 2017 - 08:51am PT
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Haven't been here for a while, and I'm not sure I still count as a Squamish climber, but that orb video intrigued me to post.
One time luke N and I saw a similar orb floating above Squamish valley from the squaw-chief col. It just hovered, shining super brightly like some kind of electrical phenomenon for about 5 minutes before fizzling out and disappearing. We never really told many people because we assumed no one would take it seriously.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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wondering if anyone know whats up with the alternate "headwall" variation on Angels Crest?
Was on a lap with a friend and went for a delightful quest left off the whaleback onto a steep wall with another splitter.
It was steep, dirty, some-what-loose as one might expect..
Figured someone might have a tale..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2017 - 10:09pm PT
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Kris- Long Time No See is an amazing route and effort. Thank you and your crew for all your hard work, blood, sweat, time and funds. It is sure to become an instant classic.
Marc- You'll always be a Sqaumish Climber buddy! Crazy that you and Luke saw that thing too! It's so easy to dismiss a video as a fake in this day of digital editing, but verified sources are more difficult to dismiss!
Kieran- How was it? How hard?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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steep, dirty, and some-what-loose
My kind of climb.
edit:
I think I once did that variation. Kind of a sharp-edged layback to start? No photos and poor memory, but I am pretty sure I have done 2 off-to-the left variations on the upper part of Angel's Crest. Well, one for sure because I seem to have had a camera that time. But it was the so-called original finish.
climber is Janez Ales
On 30 Aug there were a couple guys who might have been replacing bolts. On Genius Loci and War of the Raptors or Revenge of the Couch Potato.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Tami's mother, doing a talk at the centenary dinner of UBC's Varsity Outdoor Club, on Saturday evening. Iola was one of the two or three oldest people there, at 93, and sounded much like Tami.
She also gave a talk at Hollyburn Lodge on Saturday morning. The lodge is 90 years old, and was extensively rebuilt in the last few years. As with Grouse and Seymour Mountains, it was an early refuge for those seeking escape from Vancouver, to hike, ski, and berry pick. A number of cottages continue to exist at Hollyburn, and it has pretty lakes.
http://hollyburnheritage.ca/
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Andy's "so called original finish" is indeed the original finish. In the summer of 1962 Les MacDonald and I made the 2nd ascent of the upper section, one week after he had made the FA with Uncle Fred and Hank Mather. While it is definitely steep, it is not "dirty and somewhat loose." There appears to have been less greenery back then.
In the attached photo, Les is in a similar position as the climber above. He has just started to make a few aid moves to reach the upper crack.
I later made the 3rd asc. with Roger (the Dodger) Marshall.
Good times!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Ya it was the pitch before that last flakey thing..
That "original" finish is much more pleasant then the low-angle squirming on the "new" finish..
MH2 sounds like you might have been on the thing I'm talking about; it was a detached pillar leading to sharp finger locks and a steep off-fingers/hands crack.
It's quite out of character for the route. I probably never would have climbed it if not for a fuster-cluckin spaghetti-festival at the base of the proper 10a pitch. I'm glad we did though. So easy to forget how rewarding a quest can be.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Amen, brownie.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Wow, hamie!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Ya it was the pitch before that last flakey thing..
That could describe the start of pitch going up to the Whaleback. But I think the sharp-edged loose-feeling pillar was lower down. Not sure, though.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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One of the cooler historic threads on this site!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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RIP Les MacDonald. One of the original Squamish climbers.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2017 - 12:33pm PT
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Andy and Hamish!!! Thank you for that amazing juxtaposition!!! So cool to see visually how times have changed!
The gear is so different, and i thought the rock would be the same, but of course there is much more vegetation on the older image. The climber in the newer image is climbing free, vs Les who is in aiders.
Thank you both for your contributions here!!
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Does anyone know what happened?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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From the Squamish Climbing FB group it sounds like somebody fell 60 feet off the crux pitch of the Buttress. Not sure how. Info says they were wearing a helmet & rope and using/placing pro? Described as rescuers by alive & conscious, saying "it hurts everywhere" when rescued.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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BM. I zoomed in on the original image from 1962, and there is NO bush/shrubbery at all. But I do see some in the later shot. :) :)
There is an unfortunate error in the last sentence of the article referenced by Frosteater......
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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The Les that I knew was no curmudgeon, but he was a lot younger then. Perhaps Tami's dog was the second, fifth or tenth unleashed dog he had run into that day.
He was definitely a "hard" person on the rock. Quite possibly the strongest rock climber in Canada at the time. For some reason he favoured a Euro-style chest/shoulder system for tying in.
I used to have a few Les stories, but now think that they were mostly made up by Big Jim and Tony C, to tease a naïve youngster who knew nuttin' 'bout electrics, carpet laying, steelwork or anything else important. And still doesn't.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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That pic looks like Staircase, on the north face of the Sugarloaf at Murrin?
EDIT: could also be Hot Wire, the 10c to the left. Not quite sure. Needs MH2 pic in same pose to verify :D
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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There is a gap in my coverage.
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