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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 13, 2017 - 09:26pm PT
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Not sure if anyone has picked it up yet, but the Feb issue of Rock and Ice has a pretty good down to earth interview with the Honnold, but also a very well done tribute to Scott Cosgrove. I never got a chance to meet him, but I know he was close with at least a couple members of the Squamish community, and I think they would appreciate it.
Great pics Mike et al. I made it up to Squam for a day a couple weeks back, met up with Ryan and Kyle, and then proceeded to get shut down on everything. Myself and the missus are moving to Squamish in a couple months though for the summer, so I'm quite looking forward to that.
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rookers
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Apr 22, 2017 - 10:20am PT
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Just to kick the thread for Andy...
He was a close family friend. My younger son is named for him. He had just finished up crashing my place in Boulder and climbing in Indian Creek with me and a few others when he perished.
He was climbing at Cookie and had just led Red Zinger. He was attempting to set up a yo-yo for Mike Forkash his partner. When he discovered that the then common 50m rope was not long enough, he swung over to Meat Grinder, untied and began to down climb unroped. Mike did not witness Andy's fall, but Andy missed the ledge at the base and went all the way to the dirt.
I hope to be able to visit his plaque someday, but a subsequent injury incurred while doing a scuba dive in a high Andean lake has left this in doubt.
RIP Andy.
Spookily enough he was featured on Climbing Magazines calendar that year, in the same month as his demise, leading 'The Ghost' at Squamish.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2017 - 03:21pm PT
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Rookers, Tami, who is Andy? Please tell us more, i would love to hear some stories!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2017 - 08:24pm PT
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Thanks for the beta Jim and Tami! Andy sounds like a solid fellow! A good reminder to double check our systems so we can stick around for the long run and contribute like Tami alluded to!
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Apr 26, 2017 - 09:54pm PT
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Great to see Big Mike steering this barge again!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2017 - 11:52am PT
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Thanks Todd. It's good to be at the helm.
It takes all kinds eh Jim? Climbing crosses many social boundaries.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 29, 2017 - 07:06pm PT
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Didn't live to contribute their full extent to their community - as they most certainly would have done. Their deaths still cause pain decades after their passing.
And Long-Gone-John Howard. Sure do miss that man.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2017 - 12:54pm PT
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It's sunny here today Tami!!
Tell us about John Dave!! What is your fondest memory??!
I have pics and stories from recent adventures i'll try and get up soon, but for now a shot of Ryan D on one of his north wall boulder scrub jobs!!
Jawa Party V6?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Good energy, Mike, good energy, Ryan.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Tell us about John Dave!! What is your fondest memory??!
Overwhelmed with both work and personal business right now, but I'll try to get something up this weekend. John was an incredible climber, an amazing man, and a wonderful friend. And, despite the fact that most of you who hang here on ST have never even heard of him, he was, for a brief time, the center around which Squamish climbing revolved.
RIP brother.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2017 - 01:27pm PT
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Good energy, Mike, good energy, Ryan.
Thanks Andy! Nice to see you here! Have you been getting out lately?? Got any photos for us? I miss seeing your work!!
Awesome boulder problem. That rock is a cool shape. When are ya gonna put together the clothing optional bouldering area ? :-D hahahahaha
I love that it looks like a Jawa!! Any area is clothing optional Tami! As long as you don't mind a few thousand mosquito bites!!
Overwhelmed with both work and personal business right now, but I'll try to get something up this weekend.
I hear you Dave! I'm in the process of moving to Squamish, as well as a million other things right now to get my life organized so I understand completely!
I can't wait to hear about John though! I love hearing about everyone's adventures and being that you guys were lucky enough to have done a lot of this classic stuff first, it adds a ton of historical context, and gives us "youngsters" a better appreciation of what climbing at Squamish was, is, and should become.
I promised some goodies so I shouldn't disappoint, but this first day out was just a little walk through the vertical world of the apron in late March.
Kyle and I needed to get "high" so we headed up the apron trail to the base of Diedre one day when the rain abated. It sounds easy, but the cruxes lied in skirting the huge snow pile at the base of the slabs, and post holing through the next on at the base of the soaking wet, pine needle filled groove that heads up to the base of Snake.
It was fairly straight forward from there, but we took extreme care when stepping on the super slippery slimy roots, trusting our saturated grips much more than our approach shoes when dealing with any wood related foot placements.
It was nice to see the Apron again from below.
Kyle of course couldn't resist the urge to test out the drenched slabs..
I don't know what it is about being at the base of a cliff, but the rock just seems to calm and centre my being. All feels right in the world even if it's the furthest thing from the truth at that moment. I needed that influence on this particular day and i'm really glad that Kyle came along to join me on my adventure because I probably wouldn't have bothered going up there otherwise. Thanks buddy!
We wandered out to the top of Al's new route and the sound was looking gorgeous in a stormy kind of way.
Anyone know the status/grade ect on this rig??!! I should have asked Al when I saw him at Burgers yesterday!!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Better than ever, Mike.
I will put up images, soon.
Glad to see this thread come back.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Nice to see this wonderful thread resurrected. This is a climbing forum, right?
Big Mike, how about Milk Run in July?!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2017 - 08:13pm PT
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Better than ever, Mike.
Thanks Andy! If you are referring to my writing I'd like to thank Tami, Katie Ives and Matt Samet for their patience, encouragement and mentorship! I really learned a lot working with them for my Alpinist article!!
I'm glad to be back. I've really been missing it!!
Big Mike, how about Milk Run in July?!
Sounds fun! Hopefully it gets warm and dries it out by then!! We also need a ropegun!! That 10d pitch kicked my a$$ last time I led it and I was much stronger then!! Lol
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2017 - 07:07pm PT
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You're welcome Tami! Thanks for the inspiration and the knowledge you imparted!
That it is Jim, that it is! Let's go for a run up there this summer! Thanks for the vid this morning! It was a great way to start the day!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2017 - 10:12am PT
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Bump for Tami and Jim!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2017 - 07:15pm PT
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It's been so beautiful lately I've been out a bunch! Anyone else so lucky?
Burgers was nice and quiet today!
Erin and I went for a walk up to the top of Ronins after she got home from work.
And i'm heading out again now for a couple!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2017 - 08:57pm PT
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It sure was Tami! There are some pretty big boulders under the badge! It must have been devastation! When did the main chunk fall off? I remember reading a historical account about the whole valley shaking but i can't remember what year it was!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2017 - 09:13pm PT
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Relic and I went for a run up the Apron today. Our plan was to check out Kris Wild's new north Apron route, but Mh2 and his partner Sierra beat us to it. We considered waiting for them, but weren't uber stoked on climbing over Kris's fixed lines which are still in place since he's not done scrubbing yet. We decided to do Calculus instead which is always fun and got it done in good time.
Kris's route looks really fun though! I can't wait to try it! Looks it would be a fun ushba with all the lines still in!!
I took a few shots on route, but we were moving so fast my phone got all foggy and this pano at the top was the only one that came out decent.
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