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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2016 - 09:05pm PT
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Great stuff guys and gals! I love those retro photos!!
Tami, another amazing tale!! I love hearing about these adventures!! Thanks for the photos!
Knucko! Thanks for your contribution!! Classic squamish!! Using what you have to get it done!
When DRU???? Pics???
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2016 - 11:53am PT
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Merry Christmas everyone!!!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 25, 2016 - 06:49pm PT
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HUMBUG!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2016 - 04:58pm PT
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Lol!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2017 - 11:57am PT
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Long time no post! I've been out of the game lately due to a deep tissue wound on my sensory deprived big toe. Kyle invited me to come hang out at the crag yesterday, so I snapped a few pics.
It was a brisk cool winters day, but the sun shone brightly on our backs, warming us with it's pleasant rays.
Penny Lane was the place to be, due to the aspect, which provided a natural wind break for us.
Kieran and Marc were working on smashing windows.
Kyle floated Crime of the Century
The gang at Penny Lane
I hung out for a couple of hours until my toes started to freeze, then I bid the gang adieu and headed to Mag's for a chimi.
Anyone else been getting out in this gorgeous weather?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2017 - 02:45pm PT
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Thanks Greg! You will be the first one to know when I can skin up again!!! It'll be a couple more weeks I imagine.
Here's a couple more pics from Crime.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2017 - 03:08pm PT
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Ha! My right pinky finger still hurts from the time i fell on the opening move and pulled my dip joint. Even Kyle was saying yesterday that his fingers weren't immune to the pain. I think the more you submit yourself to torture, the easier it gets to ignore it...
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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All i know is my fingers are too old for crime
Well, duh! Too old and too tired from typing on all those politard threads. Have you no shame? ;)
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Oooh! Ow!
Never thought I'd see climbers on Smashing Windows.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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All i know is my fingers are too old for crime
Even when I was young my fingers weren't quite up to the task on that route. Oh, sure, like everybody else, I toproped it, cuz it's easy to hang a rope on. And then, on one day, not realizing that the stupidity index was so high, my friend Chuck and I decided it was time to lead it.
I don't remember which one of us drew the short straw and went first, but for the next little while we took turns getting the rope one piece higher. I'd go up, get something in, pretend to try the next move, and then melt off and get lowered. Then him, then me, etc.
Eventually we got up to the point where I was leading in the area that would probably be the crux if every move wasn't a crux for us. I passed the highest piece, made two or three moves, started pumping out, and frantically worked to get something in.
Success!
Well, partial success. I did place what was probably a solid piece, and did yard up a few armfuls of rope. But, just at the point of clipping, I lost it. As my feet came off, I managed to hook the biner on that high piece with one finger.
And then hung for just long enough to realize that my finger wasn't going to hold me, that the rope was in that hand and now completely unclippable, and that, with so much rope out...
Interesting couple of seconds.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2017 - 01:22pm PT
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Wayno- There's not enough climbing content to keep him busy!!
Andy- These guys are slab aficionados! Have you been out lately?
Tami- Not quite but the ground has sure eroded. The cheater start rock is a constant fixture.
Dave- Funny story! Sounds like it was a close one!! Did you hurt your finger? How far did you end up from the deck?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2017 - 04:28pm PT
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Awesome looking at the above pix when I look out my back window here in VanTown to 10cm of snow on the ground and it puking still.
I know right!! Such sudden change!!
I went for a little walk today to witness the bluffs in their white blanket.
We have received quite a bit of snow here in Squamish in the last four days. It was a couple feet deep when I postholed up to Penny Lane this morning.
Such a gorgeous day!!
Edit
Sure would have been Dru! A little more cold weather and it would have set up nicely!! Everything was melting off in the sun as i was snapping away though..
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Looks like time was ripe for a frontpoint ascent of Smashing Windows... just look at that white stripe.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Crime of the Century and the other two routes were cleaned in early May 1978, over a nice weekend. The Crime routes commemorating my mother's liking for crime fiction, as well as my placing two (belay) bolts at the top of Crime of the Century, plus two fixed pins, one at the start, one at the end. Perhaps the first such evil-doing at Squamish. Even when I cleaned it, I was pretty sure that Crime of the Century might be beyond me, and I've never cleanly toproped it. But I thought it was worth cleaning anyway, for someone else.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2017 - 05:44pm PT
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Excellent work Anders! We are particularly fond of those bolts, since they make the descent and toproping so much easier!
Now if you could just place a few at the top of Penny Lane, Ryan D wouldn't have to hear so many domestic climber squabbles.... ;)
"WHERE'S THE FUGGING ANCHOR??????"
:)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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The 20th annual Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival starts this Friday. It has grown since its modest beginning in 1998. This year's festival is from Friday, February 10th - Saturday, February 18th. Well worth attending, with lots of speakers, socializing, and films. Climbers and culture aren't always immiscible.
http://www.vimff.org
Speaking of which, as part of VIMFF, Tricouni is speaking on Wednesday at UBC. (2017 is also the centenary of the Varsity Outdoor Club.) First ascents and exploration throughout the Coast Ranges, and maybe even a story or two about climbing at Squamish in the 1960s. Not to be missed.
https://vimff.org/program/ubc-climbing-show/
VIMFF will not include a show on rap-bolting, rap-pinning, or the placement of unnecessary and hazardous toprope anchors, or for that matter the tidy removal of the latter.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Thanks for the look at the Bluffs and environs, Mike.
I was out in Lighthouse Park last Thursday, putting together a meandering boulder traverse in warm sun. Same old same old, but there was something unexpected, too.
Thanks for the news of upcoming events, Anders.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sorry I won't see you there, Tami. There might be a few lies and slander from a demented little corner of the Coast Range told, but then again there might not be!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2017 - 01:19pm PT
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I bet it doesn't look like that today Andy!! Thanks for the photo!
Anders- Thanks for the reminder! I was hoping to make it but it looks like I might be working that day out of town.
Glenn- Enjoy your presentation i'm sure you will knock it out of the park!!
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mickeymouse
Boulder climber
california
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Feb 13, 2017 - 08:14pm PT
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Managed to find some dry streaks of stone yesterday, this pic is from burgers and fries, the starts were pretty interesting! Also climbed center street which was mostly dry and a fun lead.
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