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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 28, 2016 - 08:01pm PT
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I am pretty sure that Up from the Skies has had several more than 3 ascents.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 29, 2016 - 11:51pm PT
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Dave and I did the 3rd ascent of Up From the Skies in summer of 77.
Peder and I did the 3rd ascent of the regular route on the Badge around the same time as well as an early repeat of The Black Dyke.
Training for El Cap.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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If anyone is interested, there will be an attempt on The Camel (the sub-peak of Crown Mountain, on the north shore) tomorrow, October 10th. We will set out from the coffee shop at the Grouse Nest at 9:15 - some are hiking up, leaving from the bottom of the tram at 7:30. Please bring climbing gear. If possible, we hope to imitate this fine photo from the 1920s. But to be home in time for turkey-eating.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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On the Camel: left to right, Gus Fraser, ??, Eric Fuller, Bev Cayley, Les Ford, Bruce Clegg, Art Cooper, Martin, ??, ??, Olive Hardy, Tom Fyles.
Photo probably taken in mid-1920s. Note tricouni nails on boots.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2016 - 10:36pm PT
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I 'member Big Mike.
Me too... What the H E double hockey sticks happened to that guy??
😉
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Nice to hear from you, Mike. Getting out much?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2016 - 11:39am PT
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Hi Glenn! I haven't been out much, but I'm still getting on the rock occasionally.
Kieran and Luke and I ran up Rock On after work one day this summer. That was a great day.
The sunset was fantastic.
We walked down the apron in the cover of night and still made the casino for last call.
Jim- My health has been really good! I've been working on getting my life organized and my financial health in order this year.. Something i've been neglecting for too long.
We need to get out! It would be super fun to do a crag day get together with a bunch of st people!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 10, 2016 - 11:45am PT
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B T D T T T
B
U
M
P
T
O
D
U
M
P
T
H
E
T
R
U
M
P
T
H
R
E
A
D
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 10, 2016 - 01:12pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2016 - 09:19am PT
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Nice Pix Luke! That Gigapan looks interesting! I can't wait to try that rig out!
That is the infamous Dave Henkle Tami. Happy Thanksgiving to you too and everyone else!
Anders! How did your outing go?
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Oct 11, 2016 - 09:59am PT
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That is a photo of the grinning weasel link to the sword face crack
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Oct 11, 2016 - 10:32am PT
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The idea with the expedition yesterday was to climb Crown and the Camel, which are conspicuous on Vancouver's north shore. That is, on what may be one of the last sunny days before the rains and snows.
Here is a photo of them both, from Grouse Mountain:
You can see why the Camel got its name. It's about a 2.5 hour hike, up and down and muddy, from Grouse to the Camel, which was first climbed in 1908 - solo!
We ended up with six people, which wasn't bad for turkey day, on short notice. Four of the six are participants in what they call the Bagger Challenge, which is an informal group of people who each year try to ascend all 67 (!) peaks and bumps on the north shore and in Howe Fjord (Sound), south of Furry Creek. One of them, David Crerar, is working on a history of Vancouver's north shore mountains - there's lots. They claim to be 'hikers', and are super fit - one of them, Laurent, did all 67 summits since the spring, starting from sea level in each case, and ascending only on bicycle and on foot. I teased them about not including the Camel in their list, even though it has a proper name and a long history. They said it was excluded (and Harvey's Pup) because it involved climbing, but indeed much of what they do already is fairly serious scrambling. So I said let's give it a try, figuring we could somehow get them up (safely) and then down (the hard part). And, with a lot of help from Andy (MH2), it worked out.
Artsy photo of people on Crown, from the Camel. I was hoping for a Brocken Spectre, but no such luck.
Site (more or less) of the BCMC cabin on Grouse, from the 1920s - 1960s. Maybe my first hike, in 1963 with my father.
So yesterday was a useful reconnaissance, and thanks to everyone for their help and patience! The plan next year is to get as many as possible to the top of the Camel, and to replicate if not surpass the 12 people they got on the Camel's Head. Without a rope. Using nailed boots. In the 1920s.
ps It's spelt Genius Loci, not Genus Loci. In Greek, Genius Loci means "spirit of the place", whereas Genus Loci, if it means anything at all, means "species of the place".
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Oct 11, 2016 - 07:46pm PT
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After climbing the grinning weasel I tensioned off right and mantled onto the ledge just after the crux of the sword then continued up the face crack, fixing the rope before the bolt ladder..
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Oct 12, 2016 - 08:26am PT
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Cormier and I did that a little while back! We linked Apron Strings into Genus Loci then climbed GW into that seam to get onto TYA.. From what I had seen of the TYA topo I argued for leaving the the hammer behind and only bringing 4 beaks.. Boy was I surprised when I got to the top of GW.. I got cormier to belay from a few meters below the belay and then I set off on 15m of leap frogging hand placed peckers that culminated with a bent and rusty 1/4" stud.. Yikes! I was talking to a guy on the sword as I worried my way up it, and as I clipped the bolt I mentioned how ridiculous it would be if the bolt blew as I looked down at the rope dangling in space save for a blue alien in a flaring pod half way down the pitch. Thankfully the stud held!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 12, 2016 - 12:59pm PT
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Repost for FoodEater
Nice picture MH!
Way to get after it!
Edit:
And I might as well make a public congratulations to young Kieran for his recent Onsight One Day Valley to Valley Solo Ascent of the Regular North West Face of Half Dome (OODV2VSA of the RNWF of HD)
Seems like not that long ago we were cuttIng our teeth on the apron...
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Oct 12, 2016 - 01:41pm PT
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Seems like not that long ago we were cuttIng our teeth on the apron...
The direction looks good.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 13, 2016 - 09:31am PT
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Nice work Kieran!
i was psyched for my home-made ledge -till it collapsed .....
I hate it when that happens. It happened to one of my partners on an epic winter ascent of the Tang. Trip way back when. Luckily, all three of us had butt-bags. Unluckily, we had three more nights on the wall.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Oct 24, 2016 - 11:30am PT
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Didn't know about Colin's talk, or I would have been there. Next time....
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Oct 24, 2016 - 11:52am PT
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I thought it was a great slideshow. Talk about a banner year for Mr.Haley...Definitely a high ratio of arm-sleeve to mustache action goin on. The cutie on the arm thought so too.
Besides the significant amount of serious geologic pornshots, I personally really enjoyed the bits about his upbringing & early explorations in the cascades.
Curious as to what folks down there now consider the plum to pick after all these sub 24hr ascents.....
HOLY SH#T!!! OODV2VSA - well done Mr.Kieran! Millennials these days.....
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