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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Aug 23, 2016 - 11:07pm PT
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Nice one Luke! That's a great route.
There has been a lot of aid action recently...the route you did luke was done in a 10 hour "push", 3rd ascent of Son Of Pan A4+, 3rd of Up From the Skys A4 and Skull F*#k A5 has had the 1st and 2nd pitches fixed with the blast happening on Thursday...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 24, 2016 - 12:59pm PT
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3rd ascent of Son Of Pan A4+
That's just bad ass. I remember Luc M's story of attempting the crux sounded absolutely terrifying.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Aug 24, 2016 - 01:09pm PT
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IIRC, Up From the Skies has had three (or more) previous ascents:
1975: Daryl Hatten & Eric Weinstein.
1976: Scott Flavelle and others, including perhaps John Bryan.
1980s ?: Peder Ourom and (probably) Craig Thomson.
It may have had other ascents, although the fearsome reputation of The Curtains pitch probably deters some.
Amy route on the Pan-Granitic Wall is full value.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 24, 2016 - 01:14pm PT
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Sounds like a real renaissance of aid climbing on the Chief.
Who's that on the cobra?
Nico Favresse on an early attempt back in 2005. Fun to watch. He could do all the moves, but couldn't quite string it all together without at least one fall. What was interesting was that he didn't seem ever to be struggling -- just really smooth right up to the moment of popping off.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Aug 24, 2016 - 01:40pm PT
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That's some good climb, Luke and Kieran. Thanks for the photos.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Aug 24, 2016 - 08:42pm PT
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My bad...thought it was the 3rd.
The crux of Son of Pan was endless beaks that just kissed the rock. Falls not recommended.
I shot the sherrif needs a 3rd ascent...
Do you old farts know anything about some old line left of Uni but right of Bald Egos? Goes through an awesome long seam...
All of these hard walls have been done by Chris Trull with assorted partners....he is involved with the Grade VII company who now make the BEST ledges available, and other cool stuff....
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Aug 24, 2016 - 10:02pm PT
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Chris Geisler has done Up From The Skies.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Aug 25, 2016 - 01:12pm PT
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Chris did the 3rd of under the gun, not up from the skys...
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Aug 25, 2016 - 05:08pm PT
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Weird, he told me like 12 years ago it was his favorite. Maybe he was just trying to get me to climb it. Hahahahaha
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 26, 2016 - 10:18pm PT
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Nice to see this thread back in action. I was beginning to think that all the photos had been taken, and all of the stories had been told.
Slightly off topic, but still BC related: Tim McAllister [who posts occasionally as Timmc] and Tony McLane recently established a 3,000 foot route on Postern Mtn, near Jasper @ 11+, A2. Very cool.
Further off topic. A couple of days ago I [and most of you] received an email from MEC touting their summer sale. I was surprised to see a "Swimwear" section, and so clicked on it. Two and a half pages, including over 60 different bikinis. The MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP now sells BIKINIS? SIXTY STYLES?
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Aug 26, 2016 - 11:16pm PT
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The MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP now sells BIKINIS? SIXTY STYLES?
The GoreTex ones are coming in or the fall shopping season..
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Aug 27, 2016 - 08:51pm PT
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Hey bringmedeath, I should have been clear and said my buddy Chris, not Geisler, did under the gun.
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Aug 27, 2016 - 10:22pm PT
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Someone was working on Skullf*ck today
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Aug 28, 2016 - 12:52am PT
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Chris and Neil Chelton are on it. They took lots of falls each trying the 4th pitch.
Megos sent Dreamcatcher on his first day of effort...he is a true step above climbers like Ondra and Sharma!
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jgrigg
Trad climber
Kitchener, ON, Canada
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Aug 28, 2016 - 11:41am PT
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Nice one Luke! That's a great route.
There has been a lot of aid action recently...the route you did luke was done in a 10 hour "push", 3rd ascent of Son Of Pan A4+, 3rd of Up From the Skys A4 and Skull F*#k A5 has had the 1st and 2nd pitches fixed with the blast happening on Thursday...
Under the gun was climbed, not up from the skies. Possible third ascent though there was a replaced bolt on crux pitch and Matt didn't recall replacing any hardware when he did 2nd ascent. So most likely 4th+ ascent. The lesbian saw an ascent this year too. Wall stoke is high in Squam!
Nice work on grinning weasel boys!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Aug 28, 2016 - 12:12pm PT
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There was a red portaledge on Pan Granitic Frogman yesterday afternoon.
We did the last two pitches of the new route that Kris has been working on yesterday, starting from the north end of Broadway - at the bottom of the 'gully' leading up and past the Baldwin Plaque. Very pleasant! The first pitch or so more or less coincides with a route done by Jim Baldwin and Hamish Mutch in 1962, named Pioneer. The new route then goes up and right, eventually connecting with Plaque/Memorial Crack, with Pioneer continuing up ramps, bushy sections, and a chimney. Jim and Hamish were doing the second ascent of South Arete, now called Squamish Buttress. Not having much information, they climbed the buttress right of South Gully - the route we now call South Arete, although several bolts have been added to its upper pitch. Then continued up the weakness above, left of Plaque/Memorial Crack, to reach the forest above the Apron and the upper part of the route.
On a related note, two years ago we did a comparison of the descents from the Apron. Starting at the high point of Broadway, Kris and Reuben went down the new rappel route into South Gully, and I scrambled and walked down . We arrived at the parking lot almost simultaneously, taking about 30 minutes. Which suggests that rappelling is no faster, and many with less experience might take more time. YMMV.
Otherwise, perhaps we could organize an ascent of Rurp Riot during the Psyche Ledge party, to 'improve' the holds a bit more?
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Aug 28, 2016 - 01:02pm PT
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Looks like the skull f*#k team has moved the belay over so that the whippers won't take out the belayer.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Aug 28, 2016 - 01:09pm PT
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Coming down it seems...
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Aug 28, 2016 - 03:25pm PT
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Wow. Indeed.
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