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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2012 - 09:30pm PT
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Yesterday was an excellent day for climbing in Squamish, and after a lazy morning me and Sandra headed down to meet the gang in the bulletheads. When we arrived luke was just finishing his lead of Rainy Day Dream Away, 10c.
When Luke untied he came over and told me I should should come solo Sunshine Chimney South 5.6 with him.. I asked if it was dry and he said him and kyle allready did it, and it was good.
Kyle solos Sunshine Chimney South
So off we went and after he showed me Sunshine Chimney North which he soloed earlier, with the nasty squeeze, we walked down to Sunshine Chimney South.
Sunshine Chimney South is really just a variation start to Sunshine Chimney Center, but it features a few different caves with easy jamming and squeeze style is also possible.
After getting into it, you get this lovely little jamcrack squeeze.
Me, Luke Cormier Photo
If you are 6'7 it is possible to stem before you clear the chockstones. :)
Me, Kid Photo
Then you join up with Sunshine Chimney Center and continue to scramble up to the Cream of White Mice/Slot Machine trail.
Me, Kid Photo
Definetly a fun little solo with the scariest part for me being the bush and dirt slope mantle I chose to do at the top to reach the trail.
After I returned Kyle left the rope up on Rainy Day Dream Away and I got it clean. Super fun route..
I was unware that Anders was giving a speech and when Luke informed me and told me Big Jim was going to be there I pretty much had to go.
Anders Getting into it
His presentation was quite interesting, had excellent photos and a couple historical videos featuring an aid ascent on Artificial Land aka Sentry Box at murrin. As well a CBC film called "Verticle Desert" featuring Jim Sinclair and partner on the Grand Wall which I would love to see more of. He packed the house and it was standing room only.
After the show my friend Big Jim Sinclair was talking to Glenn Woodsworth, so I went over and introduced myself to Glenn and they allowed me to take this shot.
I got a chance to talk to Jim before the show and was happy to find him in good health.
I was wandering around the Squamish Adventure Center after and came across this.
I would love to hear that story.
Edit: sorry about the cell phone photos!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2012 - 09:41pm PT
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Anders- I hardly saved the day.. I'm sure if I wasn't there someone would have figured it out.. Please do tell your Adamants story, it seems a little slow around here anyways and I do seem to recall making an exception for photos of Squamish climbers elsewhere so I could post some Skaha pics. This should logically be extended to tales, as climbing is really truly about the people while the places are the stages in the tale.
Please preface it with this TDA TDA Thread Drift Alert
gregf be warned....... So that the dawn patrol can be forewarned :)
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Is Anders doing a humming bird impression? that must have been after he passed around the bong! :P
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 10, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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funny thing about that photo; that was (probably) five years after freeing it. In '82 it was e.b.s for rock shoes. Peter's got sticky rubber fires on. Big difference.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 10, 2012 - 01:59am PT
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Well, thanks. It was a bit embarrassing, though. I met the historical society in November, to talk about the project, and they asked if I could come to a meeting and make a short presentation about it. Hence last night. And then they told the Squamish paper, and the radio station. (Very slow news week, apparently.) So I was interviewed on "Mountain Life" on Mountain FM first thing in the morning, too. Hopefully it'll lead to some helpful information, but I felt a little like saying "No, no. You have the wrong guy." It's still picking up momentum, life can serve up all sorts of challenges, and nothing will actually appear for some time.
Note that a "full house" at the Adventure Centre can't be more than 60 people. But thanks anyway, Mike - good try!
I have knock knees - a family trait. The better with which to kick people like pill Foodeater. You should tell us some of your stories, Greg! And I understand that all good speakers wave their arms - right, CMac? But maybe I'll finish the Adamants story, which with contributions from the peanut gallery should bring the thread over 1,000 posts. Rarefied atmosphere.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2012 - 03:05am PT
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Ya GF! You gotta have a few good yarns! Lets hear them!
I am also hoping for reports from bishop.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 10, 2012 - 10:24am PT
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G.F. could write a quick funny blurb about how he had to stand on a foothold for quite sometime whilst new routing across the hwy. from Murrin parking lot. The Bear, myself, and fearless leader, Greg. He blasts up there, gains the little bolt-drilling stance, and, well, what-do-you-know, we (Peder and I) forgot the drill at Peder's house. The Bear hauled off in his four-runner and avoided any speeding tickets; pedal to the metal. Greg hung out on that little stance forever, it seemed. It was at least half an hour. Peder showed up, Greg hauled the drill, bolt went in, he finished the pitch.
During our wait, with me manning the belay and Greg suffering from calf-pain, a police car went ripping by at mach-shnell, chasing a speeder. Perfect, he'd be busy giving that guy a ticket when the Bear came speeding by in the other direction, drill in paw. I may have made a sarcastic remark about the fastest way to Tim Hortons. That reminded Greg of some new band he'd recently read about...Bad Cop No Doughnut. Couldn't refuse that for a route name.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 10, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
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One of which was passed around on Thursday, for show and tell. (Sorry to disappoint you, Bruce.) Longware bongs, from the early 1960s - given to me by the family of Leif Patterson. Probably the largest pitons ever commercially manufactured.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
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Nice BONGS Anders :) What kinda bongs did you think they were talking about? Surely you are not insinuating that we would think of any counter culture sort. :)
I do agree with GF on his point about eeellllloooonnnngggaaaattiing your stories unnecessarily :)
1000 will be a nice landmark to hit. How many climbing threads make it to that point? Wings far surpassed that I guess and Cerro Torre achieved the mark quite quickly.
I for one plan to keep climbing and photographing as much as I can, and relaying my silly little tales in the hope that they amuse and maybe even inspire someone to go try something new. Hopefully others continue to contribute as well, as it seems to have become a place to bridge the generation gap, which I find quite unique.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 10, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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Yeah, great thread Big Mike. I think the whole tone and the great content stand in shining contrast to what a bunch of silly yanks usually pull off, and I'm one of them. Kudos, and a bump for more frosty tales from the north.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
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Hamish f- Not surprising. I guess you guys didn't quite have the climbing paparazzi they have today.. I've heard the fires were game changers.. How much did they affect the progression when they came out?
I remember a song called Bad Cop No Doughnut :)
Wayno- Thanks. It certainly wouldn't be the same without the other fine contributers.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Mar 10, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
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oh, maybe bad cop was a song, not a band; I'm not sure. Sticky rubber? Huge leap forward for climber-kind. Now try picturing those guys up on the apron in their Robbins boots... with the hand drill. Tap tap tap.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2012 - 12:48am PT
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The song I remember was by a punk band called Don't Know in the mid 90's. Here is a link to a funny animation that someone used it in. Bad Cop No Donut
Thought I would edit a few more pics of Kyle's from our Spanky's wall visits.
Me finishing up Early Morning Job 5.9
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2012 - 12:51am PT
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Post 1000..
Me Rapping off Spankys Wall
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 11, 2012 - 12:59am PT
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1,001
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2012 - 01:15am PT
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Nice try Ghost. :) Nice pics too.. Is first one the photo you were taking when Anders shot the infamous pic of the photographer at work? What's the last one?
Anyone here ever done Teddy Bears Picnic? Looks pretty epic.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 11, 2012 - 01:27am PT
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Nice try Ghost. :)
You probably beat me to it by about 1 second. I had to go back and edit out 1,000 and substitute 1,001.
Is first one the photo you were taking when Anders shot the infamous pic of the photographer at work? What's the last one?
No, they're all just random shots from days at Squamish. As to the last one, come on... Everybody posting on this thread has climbed that rig at least a dozen times. You are going to lose serious Squamish Points if you don't identify it within ten minutes.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2012 - 01:44am PT
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Thanks to KM's Solairum photos I figured it's Sunblessed but I have never had the pleasure. Something I most definetly need to address next summer. Too many pitches, not enough time..
ya I saw that edit :)
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MH2
climber
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Mar 11, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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^^^^
That could be interesting but Gord Smaill didn't strike me as backwards-looking the few times I've climbed with him.
Plus, as Galen Rowell said in an SI article, "A climber's memory is a golden sieve through which harsh realities slip away."
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 11, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
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The relative dearth of bolts on the routes on the Apron put up in Robbins shoes speaks for itself. For the most part, people placed bolts at the few places where they could stop and do so. There aren't many such routes - Grim Reaper (1969), White Lightning (1973), the first two pitches of the original Bloodlust (1971), maybe bits of other things. White Lightning, at least, may have been done using EBs, and involved use of bat hooks.
EBs were available at the Swallow's Nest in Seattle by mid-1973, and in California somewhat earlier. IIRC, you couldn't buy them in Vancouver until mid-1974. Paul Piro, Gordie Smaill and Steve Sutton did White Lightning in 1973. All spent a lot of time in the Valley then, and probably had EBs.
I placed one or two bolts on lead in RRs, with a hand drill. Rather an effort.
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