Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
|
|
|
May 27, 2016 - 01:13pm PT
|
Thanks to Kris for finding and picking up the puck on the new route-to-be, between Calculus Crack and the original lower half of South Arete (aka Squamish Buttress). Soon after our exploration in 2014, I got preoccupied with family responsibilities and then health troubles, and so despite offering to help, haven't actually done so quite yet. Hopefully Kris will leave a few spoonfuls of dirt and maybe a twig or two for me.
It sounds like we may need to get Hamie up there, to show us where Pioneer is - the pitches that he and Jim Baldwin did in 1962. They climbed what we now call South Arete, thinking in the absence of any hard information that it was the right way to go, and then did a loop from Broadway, left of "Memorial Crack", to get to the forest above the Apron. Where Fred, Hank and Don went in 1959, where Pioneer goes, where Kris, Aaron and I went in 2014, and where the route that Kris has been working so hard on criss-cross and overlap is an interesting question, but they all converge on the same area.
(The original name for all of Squamish Buttress was South Arete - the buttress right of South Gully. Which only goes to show that climbers at Squamish have been confusing route names ever since climbing got started there.)
It was nice to run into Andy, Robert and Sierra on top on Wednesday, while on a get fit, Squamish Facelift, and graffiti-inventory outing. A small emendation to Andy's photo, though - my Jedi imitation. Jaybro says that inverts are the coming thing, so I thought I'd give it a try. And yes, I know that my form could be improved.
|
|
Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
May 27, 2016 - 04:36pm PT
|
Hey Mike, I miss you too, but that pic by Andy is not us. Lol! I miss Boris also but the two we now have are keeping us busy. At eleven months, Betty weighs 110 and Boba Fett is almost 120. Pounds that is. We are still looking for that perfect place in Okanogan County. All of you are invited when we get there.
|
|
Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
|
|
|
May 27, 2016 - 07:03pm PT
|
Jim, Grade VII. John Middendorf, Nathan Kukathas and Chris Trull are involved. They have a portaledge getting flogged on El Cap right now.
Tami, the one up in Squamish.
See ya there Mike?
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2016 - 04:44pm PT
|
Too funny Wayno!! I coulda sworn that was you guys! The puppies sound awesome. I can't wait to meet them!!
Nick- Unfortunately i have other plans this weekend.. I'm headed to the island for a High School reunion. Let's get together soon!
|
|
Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
"The puppies" are a year old today. They are almost as big as you, Mike. There is quite a contrast between the two Okanogans, north and south of the border. Up north I hear they call it the "Palm Springs of Canada", where down south it is as close to the old west as you can get in the states. The cost of dirt is quite different, too. If I want a nice dinner or to go shop I would head North. I sure hope I can make it happen. We have been keen on a place in "Molson", a ghost town, that gets it name from the Molson Brewing family. I guess they have their hands into a lot of things up there. Interesting family history.
|
|
Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
|
|
Yeah: what a shame that the two best crags on the Shore (Senior Centre and Deep Cove)got banned though.
|
|
Presto
Mountain climber
Vancouver
|
|
More kudos for Rich Wheater's book. I was delightfully amazed to see just how much bouldering exists in close proximity to a couple of my jobsites. Looking forward to using these long hours of daylight to hit up some new spots!
|
|
MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
|
|
I bought one. I like it, especially Rich's photos. There are quite a lot of details such as maps, history, weather, wildlife, topos, and a large climbing glossary. The guide makes clear to me how much effort it takes and how many different forces must be managed toward some kind of balance to produce such a book.
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
I bought one.
Does it show our route?
|
|
MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
|
|
Shh.
Even Indiana Jones could not find it.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2016 - 04:20pm PT
|
Ground Up moved big wall night to tonight!! Doors at 7!!
See y'all there!!
:)
|
|
MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2016 - 07:23pm PT
|
Here we go again.
I say we because that is my chalk and Robert's chalk above her on a damp but drying day at Shannon Falls.
Two good routes.
Guidebook trivia:
McLane 2005 calls the left line Hunter's Moon. McLane 1992 and Bourdon 2012 call it Hungry Wolf.
More guidebook trivia:
In McLane 2005 the route called John 3:16 appears on page 316.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2016 - 01:46am PT
|
Awesome pics Andy!! Sorry I've been so absent lately gang! I've been buried under a mountain of paperwork. I'm finally starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel though, so I'll be around more soon!
|
|
Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2016 - 08:39am PT
|
McLane 2005 calls the left line Hunter's Moon. McLane 1992 and Bourdon 2012 call it Hungry Wolf.
I'm fairly certain that the 2005 guide just has the two route #'s reversed in the photo. The pitch descriptions are actually accurate to the other two guidebooks you reference Andy.
That whole area is stacked with high quality routes.
K
|
|
MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2016 - 09:37am PT
|
I'm fairly certain that the 2005 guide just has the two route #'s reversed in the photo.
Thanks, Kris. It was enough to confuse me. The order of the descriptions is also misleading: Hungry Wolf, Hunter's Moon, then Never Say Never. McLane usually numbers and lists routes from right to left, but at Gobsmacking Wall it goes the other direction. But yes, the route descriptions and grades are correct in McLane 2005.
|
|
Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2016 - 09:56pm PT
|
Since we're back in the neighborhood of Shannon Falls...
|
|
MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
|
|
|
Jul 20, 2016 - 06:18am PT
|
One of my partners who hasn't been climbing for forever asked me, "How many routes have we done that you hadn't done before?" The answer was maybe 3 out of a hundred or so. The route above would be another. I've been practicing my falling in preparation.
|
|
ajamunro
Social climber
BC
|
|
|
Jul 20, 2016 - 09:02pm PT
|
Jump to Light Speed, Scrubber?
Looking forward to climbing that.
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2016 - 08:39pm PT
|
A month with no Squamish?
That ain't right.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!