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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Wow! Thanks, Big Mike. I did not realize that the imposing and mysterious corner has a climb. From the description it sounds like Tattered Tights might go up cracks on one of the walls of the corner, which look cleaner.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dom,
Was wondering if anyone could ID this thing...
Urquhart. East Face route, de Jong solo FA, VI 5.10 A3, between 7 and 10* moves of aid (hooks). One of the craziest and most impressive alpine routes in SW BC.
see also this tale of a big fail and bail here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/223402/
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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I heard Max developed some cutting edge technology for the space industry and is very wealthy man.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I just saw Max last week. He's doing well in Chilliwack with his wife and kids. And his business is doing really well. They just attached a module he designed (the inflatable one) to the ISS.
A couple of years ago when him, Shaun and I did the north face of Rexford he had this super high tech NASA surplus string for a rap anchor. It was about 2 mm diameter and as strong as 8mm cord or 1" webbing, but way more cut resistant.
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Wow, thanks Oplo. Glad I asked.
Any of yall coastal denizens got any info on this S-facing wall on Futhark Peak?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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First off, drop the "Futhark Peak" bullsh#t. That is the Winslow Wall.
IIRC it's got a Rob Richards route that goes to the top and a Crapo Bros rig too
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Winslow Wall bitd from camp
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Oplo with the goods again. What a proud looking wall.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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May 26, 2016 - 03:01pm PT
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Sighted yesterday. Not on the backside of the Moon, either.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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May 26, 2016 - 03:08pm PT
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Does his name start with "MH", kinda' like yours? Come to think of it, why is he taking a picture of his hand? I'm thinking, there is more to this story...
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Slabby D
Trad climber
B'ham WA
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May 26, 2016 - 03:44pm PT
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So where is this Fuhthark/Winslow Wall anyways? Can I see it from the Truck Crossing? Dumb question...5 seconds with the google answer the question.....
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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May 26, 2016 - 05:43pm PT
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It was great to meet the real Mighty Hiker on the First Summit yesterday.
I'll tell my story when the pictures come back. In the meantime...
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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May 26, 2016 - 07:49pm PT
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Lovely scenery.... At least in that last shot.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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May 26, 2016 - 07:52pm PT
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On another note, I posted this on our little Squamish Climbing forum, but it doesn't seem to have really fired up for the season, so I'll share it here too.
Over the last 8 months, many of you have seen the fixed blue static ropes running down to the left of Memorial Crack and Calculus Crack. This is an ongoing project that will be ready for next spring, due to time constraints, and volume of cleaning required. The climb was completed in its vegetated state in September of 2014, but had to wait a while for the level of commitment required to tackle cleaning it.
When complete, the route will be nine pitches from 25 to 55 metres, and looks like it will weigh in around 5.8. It starts just left of Calculus Direct, crosses Start from Scratch at the first belay, then parallels Calculus Crack for its entire length in cracks and ramp systems just inside the South Gulley. It crosses the apron rap route at the bottom of the first short rap, and continues diagonally up and left , popping out of the gulley at the base of the groove below Memorial Ledge.
From this tree belay, the route is now open for two pitches to its top. It begins about 5m left of Karen's Math, and follows cracks for a 30m 5.7 and a 40m 5.8 pitch, joining Memorial crack for the final few metres before the belay on top. This can be linked into a memorable 70 m pitch with judicious use of slings to straighten out the rope line and avoid drag. Presently it is a straightforward gear belay mid way, but I haven't made a final decision about that. It will depend on how the character of the rest of the route develops.
At the top, you'll need to use the standard rap off on the right to descend to Broadway ledge if not continuing up the Chief.
Please give the top pitches a try, and let others know!
Kris
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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May 26, 2016 - 08:15pm PT
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Thank you, Kris!
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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May 26, 2016 - 09:22pm PT
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On June 4th there is the Grade VII Big Wall Night at the climbing gym. It's part company launch part big wall story night. It looks pretty sweet...People speaking that I can remember are Marc Andre, Russel Mitrovich, Brette Harrington, Will Stanhope and my buddy Chris. Chris is on the Atlantic Ocean Wall right now, and in the last month did the Nose, Zenyatta Mondatta and a solo of the Pacific Ocean Wall.
You need to buy a ticket too...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 26, 2016 - 09:40pm PT
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Thank you, Kris!
Yeah, me too with the thanks.
Looking forward to checking it out this summer.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2016 - 10:45am PT
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Thanks for sharing that photo Anders!! I can't believe it's been so long since i've posted here! I guess that's what happens when you let life pile up..
Andy- nice photos as always. I miss Wayno, Masha and Boris.
Nick- good looking out! That ground up night sounds super fun!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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May 27, 2016 - 01:13pm PT
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Thanks to Kris for finding and picking up the puck on the new route-to-be, between Calculus Crack and the original lower half of South Arete (aka Squamish Buttress). Soon after our exploration in 2014, I got preoccupied with family responsibilities and then health troubles, and so despite offering to help, haven't actually done so quite yet. Hopefully Kris will leave a few spoonfuls of dirt and maybe a twig or two for me.
It sounds like we may need to get Hamie up there, to show us where Pioneer is - the pitches that he and Jim Baldwin did in 1962. They climbed what we now call South Arete, thinking in the absence of any hard information that it was the right way to go, and then did a loop from Broadway, left of "Memorial Crack", to get to the forest above the Apron. Where Fred, Hank and Don went in 1959, where Pioneer goes, where Kris, Aaron and I went in 2014, and where the route that Kris has been working so hard on criss-cross and overlap is an interesting question, but they all converge on the same area.
(The original name for all of Squamish Buttress was South Arete - the buttress right of South Gully. Which only goes to show that climbers at Squamish have been confusing route names ever since climbing got started there.)
It was nice to run into Andy, Robert and Sierra on top on Wednesday, while on a get fit, Squamish Facelift, and graffiti-inventory outing. A small emendation to Andy's photo, though - my Jedi imitation. Jaybro says that inverts are the coming thing, so I thought I'd give it a try. And yes, I know that my form could be improved.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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May 27, 2016 - 04:36pm PT
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Hey Mike, I miss you too, but that pic by Andy is not us. Lol! I miss Boris also but the two we now have are keeping us busy. At eleven months, Betty weighs 110 and Boba Fett is almost 120. Pounds that is. We are still looking for that perfect place in Okanogan County. All of you are invited when we get there.
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