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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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It's an old formula and probably a fait accompli.
Land grab and real estate development posing as a ski area
Good bye Crown land including Cat Lake.
Dangle some trinkets in front of First Nations, socialize loss and privatize profit.
Too big to fail.
Maybe I'm being too optimistic?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Apr 10, 2016 - 09:24am PT
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Ray Charles could see there's no ski area on Brohm Ridge of the magnitude proposed.
My point is that it's a land grab and real estate development posing as a ski area and that on that basis, it's probably going to happen.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 10, 2016 - 10:17am PT
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My point is that it's a land grab and real estate development posing as a ski area
Like Furry Creek "golf course." Even a non-golfer can see that the side of a mountain is a stupid place for a golf course. But putting in a "golf course" makes it attractive for real estate development, and...
Which is not to say there was anything underhanded about the Furry Creek development -- I have no idea. But Garibaldi as a ski area makes about as much sense as Furry Creek as a golf course.
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Apr 10, 2016 - 09:48pm PT
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What a great bit of high pressure we've been graced with.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2016 - 06:34pm PT
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Perry is right. Gas is a real shame. There's no water there and the environment / local ski hills will suffer as a result of it. Not to mention stealing prime sledding terrain!
The skiing is simply not worth the effort, but the real estate is the real goal. It's ironic because Brohm has seen a failed resort before. That's why those nice cabins are up there..
Great work Eric!! I have no idea who that tall soloist could be... Lol!! What does Dave's new FA go at?
I've been super busy lately, but I managed to sneak out for a bit with Phil this morning.
We wanted to rope up, but the weather had different ideas so we hid in the forest instead.
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Ryan L
climber
PORT MOODY
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Apr 28, 2016 - 01:26pm PT
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This climb is super fun, one of the best recent additions to B&F :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2016 - 07:43am PT
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I hope everyone's been getting out lots with this beautiful weather we've been having!! I haven't unfortunately. Adult responsibilities (ugh!) and my body have been holding me back.
I'm at penny lane atm, just enjoying the atmosphere while i eat my breakfast and was wondering if any of you could identify this incredibly well lit open book on the north north aret?
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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The guidebook says there's nothing up there - the calling (12a) is the white mark to the right of your diedre.
Go climb it BM!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2016 - 08:37am PT
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Which book supafly? I find it hard to believe that gem hasn't seen an ascent!?
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Select.. so yeah may appear in the old Mclane climbers guide.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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That corner jumps out in some light and hides at other times.
Maybe check with Paul Cordy for current info. Last time I did North North Arete there were signs of his Parallel Passages activity in the vicinity.
Here is a photo from the parking for Slhanay. From left to right the arrows show Public Image, Parallel Passages, and Northern Lights.
North North Arete is out of sight around to the left of the corner.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Looks way easier to clean the two aretes to left and right respectively. surprised Harry isn't up there right now actually
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Where does the North North Arete route go in this area?
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Was wondering if anyone could ID this thing...
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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This area, the North North Arete
1. Big Mike's corner (see posts above)
2. Blocky tower (see below)
3. Where the route North North Arete finishes
The route North North Arete
from the 1992 McLane guide
lower part
upper part
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2016 - 08:38pm PT
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I look forward to Kevin's latest Complete Guide to The Squamish Chief. The select book is good and useful but naturally lacking in presenting amazing obscurities.
Indeed Jim. As I suspected this corner has a name. It's Tattered Tights and it goes at 10c.
The description reads "Rappel in from the North North Arete at Indica Point and climb back out to the top via cracks."
It also has a happy face next to it which indicates that it is "A good climb that is prone to becoming vegetated, or is badly in need of a retro, but otherwise meriting stars."
Here is the topo.
Climbers Guide to Squamish 2005 edition by Kevin Mclane.
Andy, thank you much for those lovely photos!! They are a welcome window into that area. It looks as if you should be able to traverse in from the bottom as well. The corner looks simply stunning. Well worth a little elbow grease, In my opinion!
Can you guys guess who climbed it first? (Most of the stuff up there was climbed by one party...)
For me this illustrates how strong the need is for a new comprehensive guide. The situation here in Squamish is very similar to the situation in Yosemite right now, where a small number of climbs are receiving a disproportionate amount of traffic because the beta for the obscurities is hard to come by. There is a ton of climbing that a lot of people just simply don't know about.
When i got my hands on the most recent Reid guide in the valley a couple of springs ago i nearly shat my drawers! There are so many amazing routes to be discovered, as is the case here. The beta should be available to the people. I wish Kevin would continue to sell his 2005 edition until he comes out with the new guide....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2016 - 10:18pm PT
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You got it Tami!
That area is actually unaffected. If you look at my photo above, you can see the rock scar well to the right of Twisted Tights. The scar is actually the top of the Calling.
That whole area looks wild. Pterydactles definetly still roam there.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Hmmm... looking at those photos I'm not sure now just what Leif Patterson and I climbed. Whatever, it is obviously one of the obscurities, and probably best left as such.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2016 - 11:59pm PT
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That's for sure. Did you ever climb anything on that side Greg?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Damn those North Walls climbs have stood the test of time for being, well, ahead of their time.
No kidding.
When Randy and Dean were climbing that crazy stuff I got them to write it up and give me some pictures so that I could do a feature on it in the Canadian Alpine Journal. My sense at the time was that this was where the real future of Squamish climbing lay, but when I published that year's issue, I got a load of sh#t from John Howe, who couldn't believe that I didn't understand that what was going on at Pet Wall was far more important.
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