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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Mar 10, 2016 - 08:04pm PT
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It's been just over two weeks since Scott Cosgrove passed away.
Scott (aka Cos, The Cos, Cozzy, Ojos Locos, Cozzimoto or Moto) first climbed in Squamish in the late eighties, became a regular visitor and loved the place.
He earned a place in Squamish history with his first free ascent of The Grand by climbing the improbable blank face connecting the Underfling to Perry's Layback.
I posted this next bit in another thread.
I first encountered Scott in the Camp 4 Parking Lot in the late seventies I think.
He was posing down, literally, with some visiting Spaniards and already had a reputation as a badass definitely way out of my league.
We connected more directly in Josh in 81-82 I think.
He was living in his van and hanging with the General and we coalesced around a mutual fondness for strong coffee, any weed we could get our hands on, slander and delusions of climbing grandeur.
Climbing with Scott started in earnest when he came up to Squamish in the late eighties with Amy.
We were well enough acquainted by then that he looked me up and of course I gave him a place to stay and did my best to show him around.
We headed up The Grand and by then it was customary to simul climb Merci Me and the last few bolts up to the base of The Pillar.
I was on the pointy end and had forgotten to bring smaller stoppers for looping the 3/16 bolt remnants and actually blew off one and hollered at Scott that I was falling.
He grabbed the rope in front of him and thanks to the drag through the gear, held my fall, shook his head in disbelief and yelled at me "What the f*#k's up Chief, you're not supposed to fall simul climbing!"
I did the Canadian thing, apologized, finished the lead and we carried on.
He never let me forget that one.
Scott became a regular on the Squamish scene and he'd show up with his current love interest and camp in the yard, sometimes for a few weeks of the Squamish summer.
One week in particular stands out, probably early nineties I think, and we decided to do the long free classics but the problem was the rain.
I suggested we check out The Daily Planet on the Badge as I suspected if we could get to the base of the corner it would be protected.
We sloshed up through the forest and jugged an old fixed line up to the main ledge but the slabs up to the corner were wet, so I used a combination of wool socks and knees to get to the corner.
Scott liked that.
Long story short, we were protected from the rain and I'll never forget watching it fall behind us into the forest below as we enjoyed some of the only dry rock on the Chief and cruised the beautiful corner system, Coz on sighting the route.
That wet our appetites and the weather improved so after a bit of a rest day we headed up the University Wall.
I offered Cozzy my complex beta for the crux of the second pitch which involved jamming through a short overhang and will never forget the sight of him blowing off my beta and wildly underclinging the miserably rounded edge and not falling off.
We carried on the rest of the way and finished up The Chimneys, no falls and the first on sight flash of the route by Coz.
We took a rest day and climbed the Northern Lights, again no falls and an on sight flash of the route by Coz.
Scott came up to Squamish regularly and capped his career there by freeing the Grand Wall route via an unlikely 5.13 face section that I had dubbed "a featureless wasteland".
I think Annie Overlin helped him with that and it took a few tries before he figured it out.
We were all stoked for him.
Because one of his parents was originally from Canada, Scott always thought of himself as part Canuck and went through the process of obtaining his Canadian citizenship, something he was real proud of.
Many of us Canucks liked to think of him as one of our own.
Scott was always a far better free climber than I could ever dream of being but he was a patient and supportive partner who always motivated me to climb my best.
I think that was true for anyone who climbed with him whether you were a beginner or in his league.
He made me welcome at his home in Josh and I was privileged to spend a lot of time there.
Mornings always started with strong coffee, quality pork product and mind numbing bud.
A colourful mix of Josh denizens and visiting warrior athletes often populated the place and there was no shortage of provocative conversation and debate.
Back in 95 we climbed together in the Valley and did the Chouinard Herbert on Sentinel and West Face of El Cap.
He helped me start the Grand Wazoo on Middle solving the technical crux on the first pitch before leaving the Valley over a meltdown with his girlfriend.
I blew my elbow that following winter in Josh and pretty much ended my hard climbing career.
The ankle injury and the demands of film work started to limit Scott's climbing.
We worked together in Vancouver on Tron Legacy and shared the bond of common suffering when two aging crag rats find themselves in dusty soundstages in the wee hours wondering what happened to those easier youthful days moving over the stone.
Scott was a dark horse and had a volatile side but he had a generous heart and was utterly without guile.
He lived his beliefs, worked harder than anyone, quietly endured and remained true to his friends.
I'm proud to have been his friend.
I've been in touch with his sister and close friends and the plan at this time is to have a gathering in his memory in Joshua Tree on Saturday March 26.
Todd Gordon has graciously offered to host the gathering at his place.
Perry Beckham
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 10, 2016 - 08:09pm PT
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He was lucky to have you as a friend Perry.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 10, 2016 - 08:18pm PT
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Perry, I'm sorry I never met him. Thanks for posting this.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Mar 10, 2016 - 08:37pm PT
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Beautiful tribute, Perry.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Mar 10, 2016 - 09:11pm PT
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Good to see. The one or two times Coz winged us on the philosophy corner of ST his words were hard but he made some common ground out of his great spirit.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 13, 2016 - 12:05am PT
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"It's my hope that you'll rise to the level of the past, instead of beating it down with a heavy hand".
Scott Cosgrove.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2016 - 07:58am PT
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Thanks Perry!!
Scott was a wise fellow. I'm sad we never met. :(
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Mar 15, 2016 - 11:59pm PT
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Thanks for sharing that. The man sure left an indelible mark on this world - we're all better for it.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Mar 24, 2016 - 02:22pm PT
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what happened?
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Mar 29, 2016 - 08:52am PT
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let's play, Name That Ledge!!
Anyone recognize this mighty fine perch??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2016 - 09:37am PT
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I'm geussing it's somewhere near/on U-wall?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 29, 2016 - 11:10am PT
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I'm guessing it's somewhere over by Tantalus Wall.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 29, 2016 - 11:23am PT
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Looks like you all are expecting days of good weather and no precipitation. I might finally make a run up there, but I'm on nursing duty for a friend who is having major ACL surgery. Double bummer. Have fun. Send photos.
I'll see about something local, though.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Mar 29, 2016 - 12:29pm PT
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Brownie your photo appears to be pitch or so below the dance platform on the mighty student loan wall.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 30, 2016 - 03:34pm PT
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Is that the top of Clean Corner?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2016 - 09:25am PT
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Hey Domngo, what's the story with the balloon soloing? :)
Is that the top of Clean Corner?
Pretty sure Luke got it Dru. Especially since Kieran was known to have solo'd Uwall last week. Funny because i completely forgot that when i answered..
Greg!!! Nice to see some pics from your adventures with Jim! Did you enjoy Robin's efforts on Old Style? It is quite squeaky clean now! :)
It's always nice to have meetings in the blue room hey?! ;)
Did you guys take the left or right crack off The Cider crack belay? From what Jim says it was the left? I think that is referred to as Grub Street now and the right is the Knuckle Duster variation which is a little harder. :)
I wish I could've joined you and I hope that I will get another opportunity to share a rope with you guys in the near future!! :)
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domngo
climber
Canada
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I always get a kick outta seeing the powerwash job - kudos to whoever put the effort in.
Hey Mike, the balloons went along with the beers we stashed on various parts of different routes @ burgs n fries that day. It was a friend's birthday and we tasked him to find the balloons - finish the accompanying beverage and keep chuggin on. Great day.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Does anyone know if the late Ed Seedhouse played chess in his younger days?
Thanks...
Glenn
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Thanks, Greg. I just ran across some ancient rating sheets. Looks like we might have once played in the same tournament (he was in the junior section). Glenn
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