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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 25, 2016 - 07:27am PT
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that climb follows, not a solid wall with some loose stuff, but a fracture zone with loose stuff all the way down. You can't stabilize that with anything short of shotcrete. Trundling off the surface loose stuff just exposes more loose stuff underneath.
This makes Europa sound like the Death Zone, but it really isn't. It's not a splitter crack in a beautiful smooth wall, but we've all climbed plenty of things in the mountains that are far looser/more unstable. And not thought twice about it. Sure, if you really tried, you could probably pull something off and cut the rope, kill your belayer, and fall to your death. But you'd really have to be trying to do that.
I have no idea whether it "should" have been cleaned. That's an argument for the currently active Squamish crew, not a bunch of guys who climbed there generations ago.
But Europa is a really cool route.
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Hoser
climber
Vancouver,Rome
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Feb 25, 2016 - 08:27am PT
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The easiest fix would simply be to make the bolts a little closer together so that they were relatively straightforward to aid (French free?). This would keep the climb within reach of adventurous 5.8 climbers, but still let the 10c climber have her fun.
And that was what was done, in fact it is much easier now than the way it was before.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 25, 2016 - 09:14am PT
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I agree with Hoser.
I've done Europa perhaps a dozen times and it is surprisingly solid. A few places the flakes hold each other in and make you worry, but so far so good. The long ramp traverse right is the loosest but has enough room that the looseness can be avoided with a little attention. The upper chimney has some wiggly parts, too.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 25, 2016 - 04:56pm PT
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We probably can't answer your question, Tami.
I am so far from being an aid climber that even a bolt ladder gives me serious trouble.
We need a 5'2" 5.8 leader who did the route with the bolt ladder to tell us what it is like, now. I do wonder if someone did the route expecting the bolts and then retreated. A rap line was installed partway across the traversing ramp so that partial ascents could continue during peregrine nesting closures.
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Feb 25, 2016 - 05:48pm PT
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Sorry for the thread drift, but in light of Mr.Cosgrove's passing I was wondering if anyone had any anecdotes to share about Cosgrove & Overlin's ascent of the Grand wall "using only their hands and feet" or the about the variation itself.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2016 - 03:39pm PT
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Speaking of thread drift... Where are we today?
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Feb 26, 2016 - 04:07pm PT
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looks like the top of maņana. classy - how seepy was the start?
Here's a photo to make this drift a full-on deviation.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 26, 2016 - 05:33pm PT
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Oplo
^^^^^^Question^^^^^^
Yes or No?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 26, 2016 - 09:28pm PT
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No idea what climb, but it sure looks like the view from somewhere a few pitches up in the Bulletheads.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2016 - 10:07pm PT
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Domngo got it. It is indeed the top of Manana crack. To answer your question sir, it was a bit moist but we did Xenolith Dance to get up there instead, and down climbed into the top of Manana from the 1st Xenolith anchor.
Here is another pano from the top.
Ben rapping Manana.
What is your photo domngo? I 'm guessing something in the dihedrals? Millennium Falcon ?
To answer Dru's question from awhile back, that is what happens when you do a pano on a moving rope... ;)
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OllieClimbs
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Feb 27, 2016 - 12:51am PT
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Hey Dom is it Wonderful thing about tigger on the fluffy kitten wall?
Oli
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Feb 27, 2016 - 01:55am PT
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too alpiney for tiggers..
edit: probably not squam area at all judging by the white rock, thick black lichen, and double ropes..
to continue this drift though;
anybody know the big daddy in this pic?
bonus points for whoever names all 4 peaks on the ridgeline..
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 27, 2016 - 09:24am PT
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Doms pic looks kinda like the black zawn.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 27, 2016 - 10:11am PT
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I make out a wolverine leading Never Say Never.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Feb 27, 2016 - 11:12am PT
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Apparently I should have been posting in the "Friday Night Posting While Your Drunk" thread because that is most deffinetely Never Say Never and the blocky roof of Hungry Wolf..
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 27, 2016 - 08:56pm PT
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Looking back at where Jim took the photos at the top of this page from...
The view upvalley isn't too shabby either.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Feb 27, 2016 - 10:33pm PT
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Tami- Bravo! Spot on!
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Feb 27, 2016 - 11:00pm PT
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Never Say Never it is.
Yo Oli!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2016 - 10:37am PT
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Jim- Nice photos! We gotta get you out on some vertical granite this summer! Angel's crest! What a blast it was to do that again this year !!
Eric- great shots as always. Thanks for the killer profile pic! I'll have to get you to send me that one.
Domngo- Sweet pics! That second one looks exactly like Right Wing should look. I still haven't been up there yet but i think i should be able to rectify that this summer. That anvil island sunset is a classic!
Since it 's a rainy day, how about some more pics? I took these when i was out with Eric, Jesse and Relic a couple weeks ago.
Kieran jangling his balls
He was a bit hesitant after spending most of the winter in bishop on the 'milks pebbles.
I had planned to meet up with Relic, that day. He said he wanted to "get some sun on his tits", so that 's what we did.
Relic getting witchy.
A standard cragging day at the bluffs.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2016 - 11:03am PT
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I just talked to Eric, Greg. He confirmed his presence at the Ivanhoe on Sunday night ... Right Eric?? !! ;)
I believe he said he was scared of going downtown where all the AZN's are driving !! Lol
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