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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 18, 2016 - 10:20am PT
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SQUAMISH FACTOID: Gaston Rebuffat took his sweater off just after that cartoon was drawn and gave it to Anders. ANDERS HAS WORN THE SAME SWEATER EVER SINCE. Even on +40c days in summer and while showering. Never comes off.
ewwww
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 18, 2016 - 10:20am PT
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The shoes were his girlfriends.
Better than a sheep I guess.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Feb 18, 2016 - 10:31am PT
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Andy Duhhh? Congratulations, Rolf, on the occasion of the appearance of Knucklehead Crag on the VIMFF poster
I hide in the sothern USA for half the year and miss all the events in Vancouver.
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 18, 2016 - 10:39am PT
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I've seen Anders wearing that sweater for sure.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Feb 18, 2016 - 01:40pm PT
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Y'all are just jealous of my lovely Scandihoovian sweaters. One with reindeer on it, from the valley (Rendalen) my family comes from. One a gift from cousins. One knit by my mother. Uncultured louts!
And as they contain lanolin, to repel water, of course they have a nice odor! (So do I.)
I'll put you all down for a visit from my "Viking Age re-creation" friends, to learn you some manners.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 18, 2016 - 03:24pm PT
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How did someone hack into the Mighty Hiker avatar?
Are you to blame, Apple?
Rolf, did they not ask your permission?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 18, 2016 - 10:53pm PT
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^^^^^^^^
Definitely has that Squish look.
5% rock, 95% forest!
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Feb 19, 2016 - 12:38am PT
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Welcome back, mh..
And nice to have seen you at the Lynn Hill presentation last night at vimff ✌
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 23, 2016 - 12:26pm PT
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Definitely has that Squish look.
That reminds me of a couple of photos I've been meaning to post for a while -- photos that definitely have that Squish look.
Maybe even play "Name the route"
And a closer look
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 23, 2016 - 06:22pm PT
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The from-the-side angle disguised Boogie 'Til You Puke really well, and it seems to be working here, too. Might be something on the Papoose. Might be Millenium Falcon. I definitely can't be sure.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 23, 2016 - 07:52pm PT
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James Brennan if you had one functioning brain cell you would know that...
Whoops, sorry, just having a Stewart moment...
But no, it's not Sparrow. Nothing that steep on that part of the apron. Andy was right (I think) in one of his guesses. I took the photo from Europa last summer, and I think the climber is on Millenium Falcon.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 23, 2016 - 09:08pm PT
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If the photo was taken from Europa, then Millenium Falcon seems likely. The belayer may be at the top of p2, at the arrow in the photo.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 23, 2016 - 10:13pm PT
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The belayer is at the third belay in that photo. From Andy's arrow, diagonal up and left along the dyke to the arête, twenty feet above that, the trunk of tree in the previous post is visible extending out of the frame. The belay is just above it.
I sheepishly did not recognize the route, despite spending many hours within the frame of that picture...
K
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 24, 2016 - 12:50am PT
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The name Europa always reminds me of a cheap hotel.
I heard recently that someone had chopped the bolt ladder on P6, changing the route from 5.8 to 10c or harder. Anyone know if that is true or not?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 24, 2016 - 07:52am PT
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Yes, the bolt ladder is gone. The 10c got more bolts, I think, during the creation of the excellent Sunset Strip by Colin Morehead. You could still go just left of the 10c into a crevice, up a bit of duff, and find a way back out right to the fist crack just above the 10c. That variation preserves the character of Europa and is about 5.8.
I was guessing that the larger tree in Ghost's photo is a little down and left of the arrow in my photo. It doesn't show up well. Most of the vegetation in my photo faded when I made everything brighter. Armchair Photoshopping the Chief is way easier than being out there with scrubbing tools.
Praise to the route makers.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 24, 2016 - 11:07am PT
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The idea that Crap Crags would become an excellent and popular climb if it was cleaned, first bruited about by KM in the 1990s guidebook, appears in actuality to have expermentally validated the old adages about bronzing turds and lipstick on pigs.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 24, 2016 - 11:20am PT
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The saga of Europa may be a sad one, or at least a very weird one, but the result is anything but a bronzed turd or lipsticked pig.
I climbed Crap Crags way back in my early Squamish days, and enjoyed it. About forty years later I climbed Europa, and enjoyed that every bit as much. It's a really good climb. Almost like an alpine rock climb, and definitely not a place for beginners, despite its low grade.
The bolt ladder/no bolt ladder/rebolted ladder is weird, and out of character with the rest of the route. The easiest fix would simply be to make the bolts a little closer together so that they were relatively straightforward to aid (French free?). This would keep the climb within reach of adventurous 5.8 climbers, but still let the 10c climber have her fun.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 24, 2016 - 01:50pm PT
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Fact remains - that climb follows, not a solid wall with some loose stuff, but a fracture zone with loose stuff all the way down. You can't stabilize that with anything short of shotcrete. Trundling off the surface loose stuff just exposes more loose stuff underneath. Removing the vegetation likewise removed a layer that was holding things together.
Quite different in nature from pulling some dirt out of a solid crack.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 24, 2016 - 04:01pm PT
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Quite different in nature from pulling some dirt out of a solid crack.
Mmmm... dirt out of a solid crack.... mmmmmm
K
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 24, 2016 - 10:46pm PT
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Oplo
You have some strong opinions. Have you done Europa/CC since it was re-vamped?
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