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F
climber
away from the ground
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Feb 14, 2016 - 09:55pm PT
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I never knew the name of that climb, Sentry Box. Did it without any idea. Thought it was about as hard as it looked from the ground, 5.11 ish. I had a blast that week, no guidebook, just climbing what we found that looked good. Did zombie roof the next day, second try after watching some Germans flail on it.
Also did that route that starts on "Milk Run", up to the cedar tree belay under a roof with some old boots. Sent the roof and traverse, trying HARD. What's that called? Would have stayed longer, but the beer in Squamish is too pricey.
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 15, 2016 - 08:50am PT
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F freed tantalus wall?!
Solid spray.
Sentry box is still considered 5.12, but only for about 5 or 7 feet.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Feb 15, 2016 - 10:46am PT
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Tantalus Wall, that is a cool name. Spray alert, what's that one rated? In Canadian ratings?
I had more fun on the Tantalus wall than the Grand wall. I found it to be more interesting climbing, IMO.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2016 - 04:09pm PT
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So little time to post these days.. :)
One more of Sentry
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 15, 2016 - 05:30pm PT
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Love seeing those old pictures. I remember feeling on top of my climbing game and being totally shut down on Sentry Box. I think of a Eric a lot for somebody that I never really knew.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 15, 2016 - 06:13pm PT
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Good coverage of Sentry Box, Mike.
F, Tantalus Wall is mid 11 except for that traverse above the roof at the cedar. Could you tell us how that compares to other bolted face climbs you have done?
And Eric Weinstein. From Darryl Cramer who went to school with him I gathered that he was unusual but for me anyway he is one of those people about whom there are many unanswered questions. And when I pause to think for a moment, there is much I wonder about myself, too.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 15, 2016 - 06:35pm PT
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If I get a terminal cancer diagnosis, I'm moving to Vancouver so that I can climb at Squamish and hang out with you guys (and Tami). Really, I can't explain it, but I got a thing for you Canadians (also Canadiens). Darn, fool country.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Feb 15, 2016 - 09:55pm PT
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Quote And when I pause to think for a moment, there is much I wonder about myself, too.
Ha ha , Andy. The more climbers I meet , the truer that quote.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 16, 2016 - 08:40am PT
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Congratulations, Rolf, on the occasion of the appearance of Knucklehead Crag on the VIMFF poster.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Feb 16, 2016 - 08:53am PT
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BIG MIKE WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON WITH THE ROPE DOWN BY THE BELAYER IN THAT LAST PIC
??:o
if my rope fragmented like that I'd suspect liquid nitrogen
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Feb 16, 2016 - 09:45am PT
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MH2-
I'd say .12c? I was hanging on for a long time to climb that short traverse out the roof. I'm not very good with numbers. What does that work out to in Canadian ratings?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Feb 16, 2016 - 01:38pm PT
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The first 5.12 at Squamish, and so probably in Canada, was the left side of the Split Pillar, done in autumn 1975 by Nic Taylor and Peter Peart. It wasn't widely known about for several years afterward.
Eric, belayed by Dave Vernon, did Sentry Box in June 1976.
He originally called SB 5.11, or perhaps "hard" 5.11 - the grade wasn't usually subdivided until the late 1970s or later. By then 5.12 was acknowledged to exist at Squamish, and SB was regraded, probably after Bill and Peter's ascents.
Edit: I believe that the first claimed 5.12 in North America was Hotline in Yosemite, in 1975. In retrospect, and allowing for grade and area idiosyncracies, the first 5.12 was likely years earlier.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 16, 2016 - 02:00pm PT
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Nice to see some action on this thread. Lotsa good pix. Deal.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 16, 2016 - 05:48pm PT
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The memories are coming back. I distinctly remember thinking that I would probably never climb 5.12 after failing on Sentry Box (in maybe, 1978). For the most part, I was uncannily prescient. Nothin' wrong with 5.11.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 16, 2016 - 06:45pm PT
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A 12c rating for the roof above the cedar on Tantalus Wall is probably good enough for practical purposes. The '92 McLane guide says, "11c or easy aid." The 2005 McLane says, "It is uncertain if the pitch above the roof has ever gone entirely free." The 2005 guide rates the pitch 11a + 4 pa or 12? The Marc Bourdon 2012 guide calls the traverse 11a A0 but goes on to say, "This pitch has supposedly been freed at 5.12a."
I once had a look on top rope from my partner who had aided through. It looked too hard for me.
We must remember, though, that P. Croft did the FFA in '82, so maybe 12c in Canadian is, "not bad for 1982."
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 16, 2016 - 06:54pm PT
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A 12c rating for the roof above the cedar on Tantalus Wall is probably good enough for practical purposes.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Feb 16, 2016 - 07:01pm PT
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Sounds good to me, eh?
I probably put a .12c effort into 12a climbing I reckon. Very fun route for me. I thought every pitch had good climbing on it, with lots of variety. The thin face climbing and old ass bolts was classic. Great positions, especially when you look at your partner chilling on the tree belay in space.
And yes Ghost, style matters. My partner had such a hard time following and got super pissed. Blamed it on his shoes and chucked them off the top in a fit of rage. I think the price of beer had something to do with his angst, because he was a great climber
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Feb 16, 2016 - 07:05pm PT
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You traversed BELOW the roof. Pretty good idea considering there seems to be a crack, there.
And what is it with red? Didn't Freud have something to say about that?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 16, 2016 - 07:42pm PT
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And yes Ghost, style matters. My partner had such a hard time following and got super pissed. Blamed it on his shoes and chucked them off the top in a fit of rage. I think the price of beer had something to do with his angst, because he was a great climber
As you will see if you enlarge the photo I posted, I was able to cruise the roof in style because I was wearing Adidas running shoes, of about 1975 vintage. (Not to mention the most stylish-of-the-day wool knickers and red wool socks.)
Your partner probably made the rookie mistake of selecting his shoes (and other clothing and accessories) based on their supposed "performance characteristics" or some such nonsense. Experienced climbers know that this is not only irrelevant, but even counter-productive. What counts is not some techno-babble about friction coefficients, or moisture transportation, but how cool you look.
Perhaps you should consider a different partner if you want to tackle more serious climbs.
Edit to add: Seriously, dude. Look at the photos Andy posted above. Or google for images of "Gaston Rebuffat" Should tell you all you need to know about hard climbing. Here's an example:
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Feb 16, 2016 - 08:15pm PT
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My partner was sporting a titty ring and a scorpion tattoo. The shoes were his girlfriends. He got them mixed up before he left home.
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