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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Nice impromptu TR and photos! Really gets the wall stoke going again
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Nice work on Cowboys and Indians!
It was a toil fest on the FA but an awesome adventure.
The route name was inspired by the fact that we have a Sheriff's Badge on a Chief.
I had tried the route back in the early nineties and returned after a hiatus to complete it.
Fixed the first pitch then climbed to Sasquatch and rapped the route in two bivis.
What was really cool was having Greg Shannon (who did the FA of the original Badge route) and Steve Sutton (who did the 2nd ascent solo) and Steve's gal Angie unexpectedly meet me at the base with beers and help getting the mountain of gear back to the road.
I did the route again with Cozzy pretty much repeating Luke and Brownie's style climbing to Sasquatch in about 16-18 hours and spending the night before the heinous gully descent in the AM.
For what it's worth, in the finest Bridwell tradition several pitches were named.
The traversing 3rd pitch is The Scalping Party.
(Sounds like someone almost got scalped when Luke broke a piece off!)
The flakes up to the roof are The Flapjacks and the roof is the Reservation Overhang.
The final easier upper corners are Where the Buffalo Roam.
While we're on the subject of the Badge, hats off to Tony McLane for linking the Daily Planet through the roof to the upper original Badge route free at 12b for The Daily Universe.
Stellar effort Tony!
PB
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2015 - 11:45am PT
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
THIS!
Is what i come here for.
Excellent tale Kieran! Thanks for that! Even better in written form.
Thanks to Perry too for the FA recap!!
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RyanD
climber
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Yes, great stuff Brownie and Perry! The new free route up there looks amazing. Rumour has it there may be more to come in that area......
It's been awhile and I'm soaked enough here so may as well jump in and share/spray a brownie tale as well instead of being a total stain.
So here goes...
We walked up into the mountains a few weeks ago and climbed on top of a bunch of them.
Then we walked up and around and eventually down some mountain called Pelion until we eventually got to a trail as it got dark. We checked rations which consisted of a salami stump, a pouch of idahoan garlic mash and a 160mg lemon sativa cookie. We consumed in that order and zombie line danced our way down to my car that we had dropped at Sigurd creek trail a few days earlier.
We arrived around 135am and drank a beer then went to the dirty clown. I would not reccomend the filet O fish.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Wooly!
Such composure!
More on-again-off-again (trail?) nonsense:
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RyanD
climber
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Tami,nononono not one day.
Although now knowing where to go I could see how with a bit of preparation it could be done if one was keen and had minimal respect for their joints.
We crossed the river in the afternoon wed via the cable and sauntered up to a bivy on the E ridge of Alpha. Our plan was to wake up early and sleep somewhere on the N ridge of tantalus then cruise down to mags. Anyways, it got real cold. And I forgot to bring the coffee, so it took us a bit to get going the next morning. Alpha was quick, getting off took a bit longer than expected. We slogged around to the E ridge of Serratus and climbed that then decide to chill and sleep at red tit col and go for a big day the next day, which we did. Climbing Dione and Tantalus then descending the N ridge and getting lost following goat trails down the E face before crossing the glacier at the Zenith col then lots of up down until we found a bushwack tunnel that led us up to the SE? Shoulder of Pelion, we basically wandered up and around that thing for a few hours until we finally saw Osa and the drainage that leads to the Morraine that identifies the Sigurd trail. We arrived at my car about 60hrs after we got dropped off on the road by the cable.
We climbed on the rock a lot instead of glacier travel although there were some mandatory crossings and a few moats to deal with, the main one being that under the entire E face of Dione which was extremely undercut. We ended up doing a 150m or so traverse on rock in the moat to the start of the route which worked out well, same for getting down and past the witches tooth and onto Tantalus.
The Sigurd trail seemed to have recently had some work done and is very (possibly too?) well marked.
This was my first alpine route in BC and it was super fun, it was a bit of a toil at one point, but I'm glad we walked in and out of the mountains as well. It made for a nice adventure :-)
Will be looking to chopper in and go sport climbing on Dione next time, yuk yuk
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Sep 13, 2015 - 12:39pm PT
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Does anyone know the deal with the rescue helo out today?
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RyanD
climber
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Sep 13, 2015 - 01:00pm PT
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Thanks Tami for the kind words, much appreciated-it was a really great experience. I don't have any more pics since we had a good flow going and redline batteries on our phones the last day. Kieran might have a few, if he see this maybe he'll post up.
Sorry I missed u guys last night, but Bmacd and a few other hooligans were still about at least when I showed up so we still had a blast, even though I'm scared to go out alone at night now :-)
Can u guys believe how many ppl live in the chief parking lot nowadays lol??!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 13, 2015 - 09:25pm PT
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Extermination Unit Call-Out!!!!!
We were up on Gobsmacking Wall today (yes, if you leave Psyche Ledge early, instead of staying and doing drugs until the small hours of the morning, you can climb the next day) and found one of the Great New Climbs has been taken over by the Vermin Of The Universe.
Nasty little f*#kers with vicious stingers.
Not sure what the name of the climb is -- I think it's Cross-eyed on the wall immediately left of Chewbacca. Crux is written up as exiting the chimney, but right now the real crux is hanging on after you've made the exit move and sunk your hand deep into the jam that should bring you relief.
Which it probably did do in the past, but now what you sink your hand into is a wasp's nest.
So if any of you Sqaumptonites happens to be looking for a good deed to do (you know, to balance all the stupid sh#t you've been doing lately), tie a can of Wasp Death to your harness and get up there.
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Sep 15, 2015 - 08:43am PT
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Made a super quick trip to Squamish this past weekend, weather was fantastic. Made it to the Papoose, can't believe we have never visited this crag, super quick approach and you can knock out a few multi pitch routes.
There were a couple parties on hairpin, so we warmed up on the first 2 pitches of centerfold, excellent! Hard warmup and it took me a few tries to get the first pitch crux. No pics.
After we rapped from the 2nd pitch of centerfold hairpin was open for the taking. It was a nice climb.
Then we wanted to run up mushroom to end the day at the papoose, but for some reason missed the obvious crack and went up mercury vapor instead. Oh well, it was fun.
Didn't get much done on day 2, just a couple of routes in murrin park.
Why do you have to be such a long drive away squamish? Wish I could play on your stone more often!
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Jstod
Trad climber
North Vancouver
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Sep 15, 2015 - 09:10am PT
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Thought some of you would find this short video interesting:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
A drive from H.Bay to Squamish in 1966, condensed to about 4.5 minutes. Some highlights include quick glimpses of Comic Rocks and Murrin Park, and of course the Chief.
I grew up in Lions Bay and remember the wooden bridges but the Britannia Beach mining chutes were mostly gone by my time.
Apologies if this has already been posted!
JS
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Jstod
Trad climber
North Vancouver
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Sep 15, 2015 - 11:25am PT
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Cool Tami.
My first memories are from the early 80's, so a little after yours :). I grew up on the same street as the Wade's, whose sons fell victims to the massive debris torrent that came down Alberta creek around that time.
As a side note, you and I've actually met and I've been in your home! Our mutual friend Chris was staying with you and Phil and I picked him up/dropped him off at your place before and after several ski trips to the central coast ranges :)
Hope you're well!
Julian
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2015 - 05:37pm PT
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Last weekend was super fun. I managed to get out with Tami for a couple pitches. Phil joined us too, and it was a grand afternoon.
We met up and burgers, and it's namesake was free, so I jumped on it. I've climbed burgers and fries many times since my injury, but i hadn't led it yet.
With Tami on the brake, I felt confident, and promptly cruised the route.
Tami pulling the rope through.
Climbing is sooooooo boooooring.. ;)
She absolutely cruised Burgers and Fries, 5.7
Original Tami customized Fire's
After we went over to bilbo baggins, and i managed to convince Tami to lead it!
She cruised it too.
Tami and Phil, chillin at burgers right.
On the way back to the parking lot, Tami wanted to check out Red Nails 11c
Then I suggested we hit up scrubbers new route.
Tami on Kris Wild's new parking lot contribution
Tami getting some.
It was great to hang with Tami and Phil again, and tie in with Tami finally!!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Sep 20, 2015 - 02:24pm PT
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Holy scheisse!
I've never seen it pour down any harder than it's doing right now.
Get out of the creek beds and batten the hatches.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 20, 2015 - 02:37pm PT
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I've never seen it pour down any harder than it's doing right now.
Wow. A look at the radar says it isn't going to stop anytime soon, either.
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Sep 21, 2015 - 04:04pm PT
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Hey Mike, that parking lot contribution is the big newly cleaned open book in boulder gully? I've been wondering about that thing. What's it go at?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2015 - 09:56pm PT
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Ryand- Thanks for that tantalizing tale my friend. Your eye continues to impress me. I'd love to see more of your work.. ;)
Aaron- Yes. I have no idea what Kris named it. It's really fun and can't be more than 5.7. It's longer than 35m, so you can lower your partner then rap to the midway station, or swing over to the triage anchor and tr that.
The Papoose is super fun hey? Hairpin is such a rad route. The second pitch was my first 10a onsight in Squamish. Next time do Centrefold to the top. ;) and do Hanging Gardens too on the far left.
Mushroom is rad, you have to wander down past Mercury Vapour to get to it though.. ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2015 - 09:05am PT
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Wooohooo!!! Squamish alpine start!!!!!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Hey, good! Why are you hiding from the sun?
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Hey Mike! Enjoy the day, and keep them pics and stories coming.. I'm going to be living vicariously through you all for the next while..
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