Squamish Photos and Stories

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 6843 - 6862 of total 7550 in this topic

<< First | < Previous | Show All | Next > | Last >>

DBlack

Trad climber

Vancouver, BC

Aug 5, 2015 - 06:15pm PT

You got it. The rock is stellar, but it is probably also the longest approach you'll ever have for a 3-pitch 5.8!

DBlack

Trad climber

Vancouver, BC

Aug 6, 2015 - 12:36pm PT

Thanks for the kind comments, everyone! I thought it was my turn to contribute to this awesome thread. Tami, that is indeed how we did it. I cannot even imagine the glaciers terminating in the lake! They are so far back now:

Hardly Visible

Social climber

Llatikcuf WA

Aug 6, 2015 - 01:20pm PT

Similar shot from about 1985, seems to be some noteworthy recession. I should add that this was from around august 23rd of that year. Annual birthday climbing trip

maurop

Gym climber

B-dot

Aug 7, 2015 - 08:06am PT

two shots from the same spot in the Duffey area, separated by 2 years almost to the day. Overall ice is the about the same, but the snowcover is far less. There's some ice loss in the middle of the glacier, but this was a month ago, and there's a good 2-3 more months of melting.

This is the same story across SW BC. Many glaciers have been bare for weeks now, and the melting will likely continue into October. The Wedge Glacier is displaying a sinkhole near the snout. Others have meltwater channels cutting quite deep into their surfaces. All a bit gloomy for me, but it has greater implications for future water management.

At least the climbing season has been good!

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2015 - 10:34pm PT

Markr made it official! St Vitus is so fun!

Greg- if your looking for testpieces, Jungle Warfare is not on the list, but it sure was fun when I did it!

Anyone know how the Roman Chimneys got their name?

I will second this question from Rupert!

Nice Photos DBlack! That thing is cool!!

Hi Kev! Wow, lots of ice melted for sure.

Nice pics maurop. Scary times we live in..

Thanks Jim.

Heather and I took the gear for a walk yesterday.. She wanted to get her 10b on.. I suggested that this one might be dry..

It was, but she wasn't feeling it unfortunately.

We chilled for awhile at the base, but Heather couldn't regain her stoke.

We rapped off the tree and I suggested we go look at Seasoned In The Sun.

Despite having been up flake ledge several times, I had never ever laid eyes upon this beauty.

Seasoned In The Sun 10b

Heather still didn't want to lead and I couldn't leave without climbing this rig, so I racked up and went for it.

I haven't been leading that much and anything I have led lately has been super easy so it was quite engaging.

I made it to the number 1 jam and got it in before slouching on the rope. The next section went well, but by the time I got to the headwall I was gassed. I put in a cam and rested on alternate jams while chalking before committing to the crux above.

I set off and managed to get to the half decent foot pocket above my cam as I struggled to place another purple on bad ring locks. The goal was to save the greens for the business above.

I got the cam in but badly and my purchase was failing quickly so I started down climbing to my last piece. "Falling!" I called as my foot popped just above the last cam.

It was quite warm in the sun, and I was working hard. I watched as a bead of sweat dripped from the tip of my nose and vaporized moments after hitting the hot grey slab below my feet.

"Are you getting tired up there?" Wafted up from the ground.. "Yes, I am." Was my reply. "You wanna finish this thing up for me?" I laughed.. "Well i would but I lost one of my contact lenses!" Heather replied. "Ok, No Problem!" I called back.

I rested for a bit longer and brought out the secret weapon I had brought for our original objective. The Metolious pocket aider. A couple moves later I was firmly established on the headwall and I was able to piece my way to the anchor. It wasn't pretty but I got it done, and I got it clean on tr after.

Yes. I used some gear on this one..

wayne w

Trad climber

the nw

Aug 11, 2015 - 01:09am PT

Great work on 'Seasoned', Mike!

Sounds like it was a sweet day with Heather, as you continue to move forward!

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2015 - 04:07pm PT

Thanks Wayne! I hope your knee is healing well!

Anders Bum is now '10b? :-D . Hahahaha. Mike when we were brats ( okay , when we were younger brats ) we used to call Seasoned in the Sun "Anders Bum" and ooooooh myyyyyy word, did AO ever dislike that !!! :-D

I knew this was coming.... ;) I am well aware of the nickname, and Anders dislike for it. So i thought I would show him the proper respect, and use the given name. ;)

I also know that Seasoned was originally rated 10a, but Marc has it at 10b in the new select and KM has it labelled in his 2005 guide as 10b on the topo but 10a in the description. I always thought that was his sneaky way of changing established grades..

johntp

Trad climber

socal

Aug 11, 2015 - 04:15pm PT

Sounds like it's 10a / AO

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2015 - 06:47pm PT

Lol John. If you climb it like i did.. ;)

Saugy

Mountain climber

Aug 12, 2015 - 01:20am PT

Great work on Seasoned, Mike! Really nice photos as well, I must say!

Here's a before and after moment..

from Oct '08

today

Who's got some to share? Please contribute :)

maurop

Gym climber

B-dot

Aug 13, 2015 - 08:01am PT

Are many drones being used at Squash?

I've heard them on various days while bouldering at the base of the grand wall.

But I have no idea if the N Gully was renamed itus....

No before and after photos... unless some of the older folk have them before this route was recleaned. Any guesses?

maurop

Gym climber

B-dot

Aug 13, 2015 - 09:03am PT

hmmm... Tami, you might have me confused with someone else. My brother is not a climber! :)

I'd still love to see some old photos though, this route has a bit of history apparently.

hamie

Social climber

Thekoots

Aug 13, 2015 - 11:25pm PT

I have always thought that the Roman Chimneys were supposed to resemble a Roman nose???????????????

maurop

Gym climber

B-dot

Aug 14, 2015 - 12:47pm PT

Lol, no worries!

Unless we've crossed paths through other sports I've been involved in, it's highly unlikely. I only started climbing a couple years back.

I've done a lot of reading on climbing in general, and it's amazing to see some of the people I've read about (not just rock climbing but mountaineering/alpine climbing, etc) regularly posting on ST.

It's a pretty small world - it's cool to see how these Squamish stories fit into the history books.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2015 - 07:39am PT

Thanks Don! Sweet pics!

Thanks Hamie!

Haha Tami has you confused with the Bear!

Heather and I got out to Murrin with Rough Lieback yesterday. He wanted to go check out Woodstock because he hadn't been there yet.

Rolf getting warmed up.
We started early to ensure good lighting.

We had a fun day. Did both 10d's and the new 11a? On the corner between Altamont and Woodstock. Heather led a 5.9 mixed route on the far right of Altamont that was really fun too.

squamishmonkey

Trad climber

Squamish

Aug 17, 2015 - 10:10am PT

Here are a few shots of some climbs folks might not recognize as they a new (ish) to Squamish, but are as good as anything I've climbed here. First pitch is11a splitter fingers, followed by the steep 11c stem corner followed by a 10d flare and undercling pitch. The route finishes with a 5.9 off width and the sting in the tail 11d fingers pitch (No pictures - sorry)
This is one of the new lines on New Dehli Cliff

Saugy

Mountain climber

Aug 17, 2015 - 07:50pm PT

Gotta love those clean, new routes going up left and right all around town.. gotta build me up some guns one day with hopes to grovel up some of em!!

In the meantime, twas an active today in the South Gully

A couple 'o parties on a bone dry Mercy Street

Another party were spotted on the new route,
Attack of the Arc'gucci Clones
Yet another pair of keeners were on their way up to try out the Great Arch

The sundog preceded the ten minutes of shoe rubber melting torture

The indomitable Bruce Kay is again rocking on, a mere three months post spinal surgery.. Oh yeah!