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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 19, 2015 - 09:56pm PT
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I'm a bit late with this, because I've been far out of town.
Arguably the strongest of the first generation of female climbers at Squamish, before Tami arrived, was Mavis McCuaig. She was quite active from about 1963 to about 1968, climbing mainly with Hamie and to a lesser extent with Tricouni and others of that generation.
Mave made several first ascents, including Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side on Tantalus Wall (with Hamie and Tricouni) and the Baldwin Crack (with Hamie) at Murrin Park.
Mave in the infamous offwidth on Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side.
Mavis McCuaig Hall died on May 18, 2015, of complications of Parkinson's disease. She was 71. Not many people on this forum will have heard of her, but I thought I'd post this brief notice for the few that have. She was a good person, great fun, and she will be missed.
Glenn Woodsworth
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 19, 2015 - 10:16pm PT
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Brief but full of meaning and a beautiful look back to the past.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2015 - 10:21pm PT
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Very Cool Andy! What does Aged in Oak go at?
Thanks for that tribute Glenn. I did know of Mavis, thanks to Hamie and yourself. Your contributions to this thread have enriched my understanding of the history of Squamish climbing immensely.
My condolences to you and Hamie, as well as other friends and family.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 22, 2015 - 10:55am PT
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Aged in Oak went with some slipping and sliding on pitch 1 and and some mind-your-feet traversing on both pitches. Not much crack or positive hands but low angle. Good bolting except at the top of pitch 2. Weathered ropes hanging from both anchors.
Nice rocks, Paramount.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 22, 2015 - 06:58pm PT
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Well, what choice did they have? Seriously? If there was any location in the US that looked like a location in the US, they'd obviously have filmed the George Washington story there. But, as everyone knows, nothing in the US looks as much like the US as some fake rocks in Squamish, so, in the interest of historical accuracy, Squamish was the only acceptable location.
Right?
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jun 22, 2015 - 07:42pm PT
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Ryan go get some FAs on those set boulders. Chalk it up!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 22, 2015 - 09:14pm PT
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Mave McCuaig was a climber's climber, and the first woman to climb at Squamish on a regular basis. She also visited the Peshastins, the Rockies and the Bugs, did a new route on Sky Pilot, and made a ski ascent of Garibaldi. Mave and her friend Sheila were the first Canadian women to climb in Yosemite, where they did several routes with Layton Kor.
She climbed in a simpler time.......
Before kernmantle ropes.
When you cut and tied your own slings.
Before quickdraws, nuts or cams. [Snake]
When you could have the whole Apron to yourself.
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When you tied your own aiders, and carried them 'just in case'. [YPLS}
When you could have the entire Chief to yourself.
Before free-standing tents, metal axes and MSR stoves.
Before internal frame packs,and the Kain hut.
When you could enjoy the entire Bugaboo range by yourself, even on the Labour Day long weekend.
We are all older now.
Mave is on the sharp end again.....
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 22, 2015 - 09:20pm PT
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What a gift, what a treasure.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 22, 2015 - 09:22pm PT
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Thanks Hamish.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jun 23, 2015 - 06:01am PT
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Hamie. THAT was a great post! Thanks.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2015 - 03:04pm PT
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Hamish- that's the stuff... Gold. Makes all my efforts worthwhile.
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Jun 24, 2015 - 06:25pm PT
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Random Squamish question, is it relatively easy to locate the Uncle Bens Rap route? Are the stations fairly easy to spot? Any 199 ft rappels? Trying to decide if it's better to rap with haulbags or ferry gear across bellygood....
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Stewart
Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
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Jun 24, 2015 - 07:17pm PT
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Daryl & I rapped Ben's. It wasn't fun.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 24, 2015 - 07:27pm PT
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I heard that John Stoddard of Seattle crossed Bellygood after a solo winter aid ascent and it easily could have been a big and final deal.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 24, 2015 - 07:28pm PT
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If you're unwilling to exit across bellygood with your haulbag, you can do what I did -- accidentally drop the bag part way up, and bail from there. The first few raps are easy.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 24, 2015 - 10:16pm PT
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Synchro: rapping uncle bens is easy and it is the ideal way to limit the physical effort of humping a shoulder bruising wall load back to the car park from the dance platform. If you can get throught the business of long run outs of Merci me, the exciting hooking at the start of the head wall and the thinness of the upper sickles, the rap will be mellow.
Having said that, you already bailed didn't you? I called it at 8am this morning, "if that soloist isn't moving by now he is bailing for sure"
Sure enough a couple hours later the soloist had vanished.
The chief and I aggreed that Gravity is way stronger when trying to solo a wall route and that the lure of the ground evaporates once you get down.
If that was you, nice work on getting up to the roof, now get up there and top out.
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Jun 25, 2015 - 12:53am PT
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We are only packing the essentials, wall rack, water, smokables, hibachi barbecue, steaks and cheap wine....
That was not me on Uncle Bens, we are heading over in a few days, hoping to climb something in that area, probably gonna fix and blast with day gear so no ledge and overnight stuff to haul.
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RyanD
climber
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Jun 25, 2015 - 02:57pm PT
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Some great stuff on that last page. Thanks everyone.
I haven't added climbing stuff here forever but here's a few shots of a new climb up at Quercus cliff @ murrin that my friend Jay and I did the other day.
It was funny, as we had finished cleaning and the roshambo for the lead (which I won after quadruple scissor standoff) Harry walked up to the crag. I decided to give him the lead for all the pitches and efforts he's put into putting up a massive slew of quality routes for us. But He didn't really want it since he was taking a rest day, but after some prodding we sent him off for a ground up, onsight, FA attempt. He put in a great effort but didn't quite get it. Jay and I climbed it after and I think it's a pretty fun, pumpy climbing with some really perfect stone and good gear. The nice part was that we didn't need to place any bolts and it's probably the most splitter crack on the cliff, I may be biased tho :-) Chris H showed up and flashed it after too which was cool!
The moustache woman
11a? 30m
Start left of the glass slipper about 10m and climb up ledgy corners to a spooky step left below the tree ledge on the arete. Once on the ledge its good to back clean if u can and sling the tree long before stepping out right on the face and following the nice splitter hand traverse all the way to "the man from del monte" chains.
Lower and clean on tr.
enjoy!
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Jun 25, 2015 - 06:12pm PT
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Would there be a lot of freeclimbers on U-Wall these days? What are the odds of it being free on a sunny weekend? Don't wanna get into a fustercluck if there's people all over it.
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