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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 09:16am PT
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Sweet locks. Forged by pins. Very nice.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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May 28, 2015 - 11:30am PT
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I remember thinking p1 of exas was harder than p2. Gnome the upper sectoin is sinker thin fingers, and the lower is big splitter fingers.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 01:55pm PT
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Tami- ya it's been so warm this year!
The bottom is locker fingers for me, and the top is heinous tips. With slippery feet.
The most badass way to climb exasperator is to link it, and skip the anchor for pro!
He's feeling it!
Almost to the hands
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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May 28, 2015 - 04:08pm PT
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Stop it Mike! You are making me want to get on that thing again!
I only did the first pitch, my wife took the second. Took a little fall with gear just below my waist after a foot slipped, so I am looking for the redpoint. I'm pretty sure I can get the second pitch too. Nice thing about that climb is clean falls and bomber gear.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 06:47pm PT
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Super clean falls on wicked gear for sure!
It's callin' you bro!
LINK IT! ;)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 28, 2015 - 08:44pm PT
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All those photos of Exasperator remind me of a time, about twenty years ago, when Al Steck was up for a visit. I spent three or four days putting him on what I thought were the Squamish climbs he'd enjoy most. One of which was Exasperator.
There are a bunch of stories from that day, which, if I survive this month's press deadline, I'll come back and tell, but for tonight, just this one thing...
When we were back on the ground, Allen looked up at what we had just climbed, and said: "I think that's the best finger crack I've ever climbed."
Once we got into the wine that night he changed his mind, and said it was actually only the second-best, but given that he had climbed all over the world for fifty years, much of that time at the cutting edge, I reckon it's safe to say Exasperator is an okay climb.
Now I have to add that Allen never climbed at the Needles, where Exasperator would be something you got on only if you didn't know that everything else was better, but still...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 09:10pm PT
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That! Is why i post here!
Thanks Dave!
Probably not your favorite picture i know. But it's my best closeup and the only one i have of you with Tami.
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Ryan L
climber
PORT MOODY
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May 28, 2015 - 09:52pm PT
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Big Mike for the 4x4 post, it looks like Chuck Chuck Creek at the Lounge Wall up the Squamish Valley :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 10:30pm PT
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Poor old Gunstone
Lol. Someone around here might know the story behind that..
Ryan L! You are correct sir!
Welcome to supertopo.
You
Are
Going
To
Die.
(Taco greeting)
Do you have a particular favourite Squamish climb I might have an image of?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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May 29, 2015 - 01:29pm PT
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Tami
Judging by the expression on David's face, it might be quite a while before he heads north again! What did you do?????
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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May 29, 2015 - 01:45pm PT
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David looks more cheery in this photo (same event). Mighty Hiker looks a bit glum. Must have been something Tami said....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2015 - 05:07pm PT
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Yes it was a grand time. I think the expression on Dave and Tami's faces had something to do with some tall guy shoving a camera in their face.. Lol
Grand luncheon with Wayne M
Our geust of honor Wayne Merry and Tricouni.
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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May 29, 2015 - 05:37pm PT
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I was privileged to climb with carlyle on several occasions. Joshua Tree, Red Rocks, and 2 weeks without seeing another soul in the stronghold. I had such a crush on her!!!! We grew apart, as people sometimes do, and it was several years after her passing until I learned of her accident, and reading her name again brought back fond memories. I still have 30 or so emails from her saved and read them from time to time. As she would say ....."until"
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2015 - 02:36pm PT
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Thank you Cavemonkey. She sounds like a good soul.
Supafly- not sure. We just past there and all appears normal.
Trippy that instagram is the most up to date on the situation. Apparently they shut down the highway as an lz.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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May 31, 2015 - 07:01pm PT
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I saw the rescue on the evening news with John Howe , and remembered he is the sleeping giant in Squamish climbing, out there saving your bacon when you f..k up!
He's your typical bristly Squamish understated local hero, hats off and respect to John.
The papoose is his crag,but my favorite story is his ascent of Super Value at the Bluffs. Robin Barley had just bolted the route,not sure if Robin had sent it yet, John was the chosen lead climb guinea pig of the day, as John chipped the 1/4" bolt at the crux, it slid out of the drilled hole onto his lap! Typical hard man of the day, he continued and finished the climb.
Today he was instrumental in another rescue,no fanfare, just a professional taking care of business. Thank you John.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 31, 2015 - 07:56pm PT
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I saw the rescue on the evening news with John Howe , and remembered he is the sleeping giant in Squamish climbing,
I don't know if he's the "sleeping giant of Squamish climbing," but he was definitely more badass than
a lot of people realize. Photo below shows the North Buttress of Needle Peak. John and Blake Robinson
walked in from tidewater for the first (and maybe only) ascent in 1987 or so. It's about 4,000 ft
base to summit, and other than a few photos (like this one from Mt. Sir Frances Drake) they had no beta.
And as gnarly as the climb may be, the approach is an order of magnitude worse.
And here's John in a less burly moment, collecting big bucks to help Tami and me save Canada.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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May 31, 2015 - 09:10pm PT
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And still giving back to the climbing community, makes him legit.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2015 - 02:00pm PT
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John has always been very kind whenever i've met him. A great guy doing great things. Thanks John. Thanks to Rolf and Dave for those tales too.
Cbc offers up this confusing tale.
A rescue operation stalled traffic along the Sea-to-Sky Highway Sunday morning after a hiker fell 9 metres onto a ledge while scaling a rockface in the Cheakamus Canyon north of Squamish.
Search and Rescue officials say the man, in his mid-40s, was on a rope being guided by his partner from the ground when he fell around 10:30 a.m. PT. They estimated he fell about 30 feet or 9 metres.
http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/hiker-falls-9-metres-while-climbing-rockface-near-squamish-1.3094817
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