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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Joe Turley gave me the nickname Rough Lieback , a play on words of my name after seeing how bloodied I was after trying to jam Jim Campbell's route Laid Back instead of lay backing it.
Jim Campbell had no part in "Laid Back." That little gem was scrubbed and climbed by Steve Loomer and Keith Nannery. Photo below is Corina Acheson following me on the second ascent.
Edit to add: Of course, Rolf is old. And I'm even older. So it's quite possible we're both confused. And also, I... Hey! Nurse! I want my warm milk and cookies!
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Yep, It may have been Perry who gave me that moniker,Joe probably just repeated it.
Jim Campbell was an interesting character, I wonder if any one still has his hand drawn topo guide book to Squamish?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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But...
dirt that wants warm milk and cookies. From a nurse.
A nice mix of then and now on the thread.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2015 - 11:13am PT
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Sitting at the base of the buttress!!! WOOOOOOOHOOOO!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2015 - 09:28pm PT
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Vulch and I had an awesome day out yesterday.
11am found us on top of the Apron after literally running up Banana Peel and Boomstick, out of concern for my ankle, we pitched out the apron but 30 mins a pitch is not too shabby.
Top of the Apron scramble.
We didn't see a soul all morning but as we were chilling at the base of the buttress, another party rambled up to the base.
Vulch got started on the pitch and I sparked up a conversation with Aaron and his lovely wife.
Shortly after I mentioned my injury, Aaron goes, "wait are you on supertopo?"
"Yeah, I'm Big Mike..." Lol we have another lurker folks! ;)
Shortly after that, Vulch finished up the pitch, and I was off.
I linked the next two and took the next pitch to get Vulch to the base of the headwall. She had mentioned some anxiety over the 10c pitch that morning, but with the way we were climbing I was under the impression she was all good.
When she got to the base of the wide crack on the ledge below the headwall, I could hear her stressing about her pitch. We sorted the rack and she re-racked all the gear so it would be accessible with her butt against the wall.
Buttress headwall pano.
She got up to the first bulge crux and took a couple whips. She looked down at me and said "I can't do this today." I tried to convince her that she was fine and she could get through this mental block, but she wasn't having any of it.
I was just about to lower her when Aaron came up. She said "i'm just not feeling it today", to which he replied, "if you weren't feeling it, you wouldn't even take that fall. This spurred her on, and next time she pulled the move, no problem.
She got to within 15 of the top when she whipped again. She tried again, got another piece of gear in, and took another fall. This is when she started saying she couldn't do it again. I suggested another placement on her right, and she clipped it then made another effort.
There was two parties waiting for us by this point, and she was not happy being watched and holding people up. After another good whip, she told me she'd had enough. I tried to get her to aid through it, but when she stepped up in the sling, she whipped again, and this time she smoked her hip real good against the wall.
I could have aided it, but there was three parties waiting at this point and I was feeling guilty for causing this roadblock, so I asked Aaron if he would mind towing our rope up if we let them go first. He agreed, and I told Vulch to stick another cam in and equalize them so she could strip the gear for the next party, and I lowered her off.
The other party Matt, and his friend were quite patient with us too, so i offered to let them jump us in the cue as well.
Arron's lovely wife heading up and Vulch looking a little defeated.
Getting some gear in.
The Prow
Stemming off the bulge.
Bryn Carlyle Norman Plaque
Put yo back in it!
Echelon wall looming over Valleycliff with Atwell/Garibaldi on the horizon.
So close. Man this pitch feels long!!
Prow/Echelon wall pano
Get it done!!!!
Vulch stoked to be on top.
South Peak Pano
We arrived on top to a lovely surprise. Someone else's lunch which they apparently didn't want...
We cleaned up their refuse and the guy in the photo came up to me and asked if he could throw his apple core in my garbage bag. "Fvck no!" I said. "Pack it in, Pack it out!"
I was shocked he even asked....
Mexican food and beer seemed well in order after that.
Thanks to Aaron and his lovely wife for stripping our gear and leaving it at the anchor and Matt and friend for giving us a tow!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2015 - 11:08am PT
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Anyone have any beta about Bryn they would like to share?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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May 11, 2015 - 11:17am PT
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It's interesting to see how the rock on the last pitch of the Buttress has been scuffed to white by countless ascents. Here is a pic of Jim Baldwin, on the 2nd ascent, when the rock was a lot darker.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2015 - 11:34am PT
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Indeed Hamie. I was once told (I think by Andy?) that the oils from our fingers, kill the lichen which gives the granite it's typical grey color. You'll notice the heatwave cracks retain their original patina.
Thanks for the awesome pic!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2015 - 02:33pm PT
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Wow Tami. Sad article. She sounds like a brave soul indeed.
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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May 12, 2015 - 10:18am PT
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This is Aaron, I guess I lurk no longer...
Thanks for the photos Mike.
Here is a photo of my wife Laurence coming up the first 2 pitches of Rock On. We had a lot of fun on this route, and a great day overall. Can't wait to get back to Squamish, but hopefully for longer than a weekend.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2015 - 10:24am PT
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You're welcome Aaron! Thanks for your assistance, and my offer still stands. Shoot me a pm or post up here if you need a partner. (St pm's can be spotty sometimes. They don't always work..)
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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May 12, 2015 - 11:29am PT
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Sunday we climbed Chewbacca over on Shannon Falls Wall. We only did the first two pitches, but will be back to tackle the 3rd. This si an excellent climb, tight hands to a layback on the first pitch, fun chimney on the second, and ??? on the 3rd (looked like nice cracks).
Then we had the idea to run up skywalker, but there was a party at the base with shiny new gear about to start up so we didn't want to wait around, did a couple single pitches over by klahanie crack instead. Anyone know what that TR slab between klahanie and split decision goes at? Book says 11a, but I was able to get up it with ease, so no way that is 11a unless I magically became an 11 slab climber overnight.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2015 - 12:01pm PT
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Nice Aaron. That one looks fun, haven't got on it yet.
Not sure on the grade for "no bolts". I'll ask Harry next time i run into him.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2015 - 11:03am PT
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Congrats to Brett for her recent success in Tahoe!
Two weeks ago, Harrington sent Grand Illusion, the first 5.13c crack climb in North America (and maybe the world) and said, “I finally sent the Grand Illusion 5.13c today out at Sugarloaf.
“After climbing at Lovers Leap all afternoon Marc Andre-Leclerc and I hiked up to Sugarloaf for one last go at Grand Illusion for my last day in California and it went.”
Originally Grand Illusion was the third pitch of The Fracture and was climbed on aid, but in 1979, Tony Yaniro freed it. There is some dispute about what was the first 5.13 in Yosemite, but Grand Illusion is the agreed first 5.13+.
“It’s Harrinton’s first solid 5.13, after doing The Shadow 5.12d/5.13a in Squamish last September,” said Leclerc.
Beth Rodden made the first female ascent, onsight, in 2002 with the majority of the gear in place. Harringon placed all her gear on lead, aside from two fixed nuts in the roof. She clipped another two fixed nuts at the bottom on the 5.8 slab before the route really starts, so that doesn’t affect the difficulty.
http://gripped.com/news/brette-harrington-repeats-historical-yosemite-5-13-crack/
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 27, 2015 - 06:53am PT
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Two weeks since anyone's wanted to talk about climbing at Squamish? What's going on?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2015 - 10:42am PT
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Well Dave,
I've been kinda busy.. I'm back to work now and i took last weekend off to lie on the couch with my ankle up so i haven't been out for a bit.
Sandra and I did meet up with the Cormiers a couple weekends ago, we took the trucks for a little 4x4. Any guesses what area? What crag for bonus points.
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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May 27, 2015 - 11:24am PT
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Well Ghost, haven't posted because I was busy climbing! A good thing!
Last Wednesday night had us driving up I-5 for a 6 day trip up to Squamish. We crashed out and woke up Thursday to climb Birds of Prey (10b) on Slahany. For some reason I just wasn't feeling it all day, luckily my Wife is my rope gun!
Start of Birds of Prey
Nice views from Birds of Prey
Headed up the final Pitch of Birds of Prey
The next day we rapped down the Malamute for a link up of Old Style, Cider Crack, and Grub Street. What a great link up, highly recommended! Luckily I got my mojo back for this one.
Me on old style
The next couple of days we decided to take a "rest day" which had us hiking up to Garibaldi Lake to camp before hiking up to the Black Tusk the next day. This hike made my calves burn! Well at least it was a rest from climbing.
Beautiful Lake Garibaldi
The Black Tusk. We opted to not scramble up the choss. Why climb loose rock when clean granite is down in Squamish?
Coming down from the Black Tusk
After that we spent a rainy Monday walking around Whistler followed by a couple of pitches in the Smoke Bluffs, no pictures.
Yesterday we had one goal....needs no introduction.
So good!
Sad to be back in the office when I know the weather is wonderful in Squamish. Bummer.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 08:28am PT
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Thanks Tad! I'm trying! ;)
Hi Aaron! Looks like you guys had fun! I love birds. So much fun. I have never even hiked up to Garibaldi! Lol
Thanks for the pics. I'll match your shot of Exasperator and maybe find a few more? I have tons.. Lol
Kyle on Exasperator 10c
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 08:48am PT
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P1
Kyle works the curve
Almost at the first belay before the block was trundled.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 28, 2015 - 08:52am PT
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Very inspiring
Dreaded off fingers ? Or sweet locks?
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