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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Dec 19, 2015 - 01:52pm PT
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Hootie the Wood Owl sez,
GIVE A HOOT - - - DON'T DRILL. WOOT!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Dec 19, 2015 - 04:14pm PT
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Ten years after we now have a 6 ft deep, horse shaped hole that has been beat into the ground, and a loco bronco on the loose.
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drewsky
climber
Seattle
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Dec 20, 2015 - 03:05pm PT
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It's sad that this is happening in Yosemite. It's also happening all over at various climbing areas. Strangely, so-called 'stewardship' has become an excuse for all kinds of activities. At Index, our (smaller) granite paradise here in WA, it's been the cover for unnecessary vegetation removal and excessive bolting, to give a couple of examples. Any questioning of tactics brings the familiar ad hominem attack: "what have you done for the climbing community lately?" Excessive bolting, useless and excessive vegetation and tree removal: they're not public services and they don't count as stewardship! If I did nothing, it would be better than doing what someone like Sloan appears to be doing!
At least Yosemite has a large group of aware and concerned enthusiasts who will ultimately (hopefully) be able to mediate the problem. Another person at Index has within the past couple of years installed a via ferrata and, more recently, used an artificial hold on a 'new variation' to an older route. The only positive is that he wasn't positing his actions as 'public service', but without people to speak up against these issues they will continue apace. Sadly, too, it's happening everywhere.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Dec 20, 2015 - 04:21pm PT
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Sloan wrote
I'm not mad at you Steve. I appreciate your opinions. You just come off as extremely disconnected from the community here in Yosemite.
Hahahahahgahaha
Are you really that clueless or that completely narcissistic or just lacking in any sort if intellect?
I'm voting for all three as that's the only way I could see anyone justifying actions like yours with with your BS posts
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overwatch
climber
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Dec 21, 2015 - 05:33pm PT
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one step closer to bumping a gear review off the front page
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couchmaster
climber
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Dec 21, 2015 - 08:45pm PT
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About damn time everyone is done hurling internet insults. I'll bump the thread in 10 years after again in 10 years.
Or something....
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dec 21, 2015 - 09:26pm PT
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Sloan is still hurling insults...
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Dec 22, 2015 - 03:14am PT
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About damn time everyone is done hurling internet insults.
This is not about insulting Erik, the person.
It is about shouting out about degrading the climbing area with excessive drilling.
Erik is the Poster Boy for retrobolting, at this point.
Erik claims to have supportive minions, who agree with what he is doing.
This is not about Erik.
It is about a vast majority of climbers who do not want Yosemite to be retrobolted.
Erik is retrobolting, at will. We want him to just STOP.
This concept also applies to any other person with a wanton, reckless, irresponsible, and clueless drill fixation, to just STOP.
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gumbyclimber
climber
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Dec 22, 2015 - 11:23am PT
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This spraying of bolts all over the place is happening around Salt Lake too; it sucks. You have routes that have been climbed thousands of times over the last 40 or 50 years - with not a single hole from base to summit - and some asshat comes along and goes, "You know what we need here is a few bolts." It's really depressing. I'll go ahead and take credit for being the guy who chopped the bolted anchor up high on the Nutcracker about 15 years ago for the same reasons.
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Dec 22, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
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Locker, sadly I am afraid to say you are right on this one…
This vigilante Sloan is waving his middle finger at everyone who has ever climbed El Cap or dreams of climbing it. All the while like some bizarre muppet creature saying, "Woot woot, Buy my guidebook".
Sloan is rewriting the rules of the game we have all agreed on for over half a century, one primarily being that if you can't do a route the way it was established, don't go up there. His actions point to mental illness and it is likely he truly believes those voices in his head are actually the community supporting his vandalism (he falsely calls it "stewardship"). If we are lucky he will be caught committing a crime (power drilling in Wilderness or doing aggressive trail work) and be banished from the Park. Unfortunately there will be another megalomaniac following right in his footsteps.
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661climber
climber
Central valley
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Dec 22, 2015 - 02:29pm PT
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Sloan, please stop.
Regards,
Everyone
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Dec 27, 2015 - 07:39am PT
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BUMP :-)
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Dec 27, 2015 - 09:03am PT
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Dec 27, 2015 - 05:38pm PT
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The blind leading the blind.
I can imagine what's next:
Erik Sloan's Nose Climbing Vacation Package - $666.00 free shipping
 90 minute Sloans-Skills video, claiming to fully prepare you for the Nose
Sloan Woot-WooTopo - 31 oversized pages - showing every hold, placement and piss-stance
self rescue kit - power drill, bolts, and more bolts, and more bolts.
smartphone app - Sloan 'n' Spray - automatically posts selfies from the wall all over the internet
map to all the secret OB bivi spots in the Valley, plus other *insider* knowledge
handbook of useful translations for visiting climbers
a handful of free coupons to the Curry Village Diarrheum (receipts Sloan has pulled out of a garbage can)
A few excerpts from Sloan's translation guide (English to Sloaneze)
RETROBOLT = modern trad gear; gear placed by park docents; necessary safety gear; hammerless clean anchor or placement
RETROBOLTING = proper care and preservation of a route; performing necessary upgrades
RETROBOLTED AID PITCH = clean variation
OLDER CLIMBER = outdated artifact, found in museums; no relevance to modern climbing ethics
YOUNGER CLIMBER = instant authority on the sport; expert climber; rule maker
INEXPERIENCED N00B = potential client, esp. for unlicensed, illegal guides
HATED BY EVERYONE ELSE = loved and appreciated by the majority
STOP DRILLING = unknown, indecipherable noise; var. of start drilling? slab drilling? continue drilling?
DEFACEMENT OF EXISTING ROUTES = stewardship of the climbing area
CLUELESS MORON = the coolest guy in the Valley; the best; the greatest
SELF-SATISFIED = humble; non-boastful; quietly aware; admired by others
SELF-CENTERED = considerate of others; altruistic; generous; Ghandi-like
SELF-DESTRUCTIVE = respected and honored; admired within one's peer group; serene in one's path in the world
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Dec 27, 2015 - 06:53pm PT
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I'm very curious about the stated desire for a climbing camp.
Based on his prodigious, unregulated alteration of public resources, that talk makes me cringe.
I hope I'm wrong...
my post above is an exhibition of why Eric has no business going beyond bolt replacement. He has a disqualifying financial interest in any enhancements.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Dec 28, 2015 - 04:05am PT
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climbing camp
Sloan is not going to listen, or adjust what he is doing.
He must be stopped.
This is the most absurd situation, in the history of Yosemite.
Thanks, Crazy Erik, for reinvigorating the Old Men.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Dec 28, 2015 - 05:51am PT
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I bet most of you guys have 'Silent Partners' and think they are the best solo aid device and best piece of gear EVER made.
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EP
Trad climber
Way Out There
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Dec 28, 2015 - 05:57am PT
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Anyone remember the metal sign at the Needles with the name Greg Vernon?
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Dec 28, 2015 - 07:00pm PT
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Well played, PEnvy...well played.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!