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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2015 - 10:44pm PT
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Love those classic Guidebooks! Thanks for that Kaiser!
Sweet photo Hamie! Hoping to get up there soon.
On Sunday I had the pleasure of meeting Murcy, and showing him around the bluffs with Mighty Hiker and Mh2. I posted these pics elsewhere but i think they have a place here too.
Mighty Hiker and mh2 scoping out Penny Lane
Murcy performing his pre-climb ritual.
Mighty Hiker getting chalked up.
A casual scene at Penny Lane
Mighty Hiking Penny Lane 5.9
His first Little Smoke Bluffs route and probably the most popular 5.9 in the bluffs. Still sending many years later.
mh2 the stick man and Murcy
Mighty Hiker, mh2 and Murcy "scrambling" up to Neat and Cool
Mh enjoying an apple while mh2 shoes up.
One of the local monkey's working on Bruce Lee Vs the Kiss Army 13 a r
Murcy on Flying Circus 10a and a visiting climber on a little led route, Lieback Flake 5.9
Murcy sizing up the Smoke Bluff Wall
mh2 starting up Mosquito 5.9
mh2 getting it done.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Hi everyone, it's been a while.
Normally during the winter, I'm all stoked on snowboarding and filming and editing and sh#t, but this winter has been anything but normal. I've been itching to mess around with some video stuff, as well as climb some rocks, so I got the chance to do that today.
https://vimeo.com/124378775
Enjoy!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Couple local monkeys going for the evening ascent of Wild Turkey!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2015 - 10:33pm PT
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Nice Vid Nate!
Who were the turkeys? ;)
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Wow... now I wanna go climb granite boulders.
Nice vid. Thanks for sharing.
"Wild Turkey?..... cool.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Thanks guys :) It made for a long day, cause I had to climb everything multiple times in order to get a shot I was happy with. It's hard being your own director, DoP, cameraman, and stuntman.
It was Marc and Brownie on the heinous flare. I just happened to spot them on my way out of town, so pulled in to heckle and watch. I'm not sure how they ended up doing, as it was getting pretty dark just as the leader was getting into the business.
Here's a shot I took yesterday at low tide of the lower Malamute. Look closely to see Kyle on Krescent Krack.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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That rare bookseller was back at the adventure centre today with his boxes of goodies. There was one (pricey) copy of Anders' guide there, as well as three copies of Dick Culbert's 1974 Alpine Guide to Southwestern BC which had a decent section on the Chief. None of the treasures that I've been looking for. You're very lucky to have found that copy of Glenn's guide. It's the only other one missing from my collection :) (Besides Jim Baldwin's hand typed first collection of routes which almost no one has.)
Thanks for all those great shots of climbing in the Bluffs!
K
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Scrubber, do you have Jim Campbell's first guide, Rock Climbs of the Little Smoke Bluffs? It is very scarce, too.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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I stand corrected. I'm missing that one too. Can someone tease me with a cover-shot of it?
K
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Tami, that first book of yours is the only one missing from my "Tami Shrine" I've got every other one.
One day, one day....
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 10, 2015 - 08:56am PT
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Scrubber
There is only one copy of Jim Baldwin's hand-written guide. There are several copies of the typed version.
EDIT:
Glenn
That's the first I have heard of a Smoke Bluffs guide. Interesting. Jim Campbell is now living in Castlegar, after a long spell in Creston.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2015 - 03:37pm PT
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Back in Squam
It's a bit smokey today..
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 17, 2015 - 04:02pm PT
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Kris, Hamie,
Here's Jim Campbell's Smoke Bluffs guide from 1984. There was only 1 printing, then he went on to produce his full guide.
and the title page....
Glenn
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 17, 2015 - 05:03pm PT
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Jim, it was a compact dark blue cloth guide from 1965. Dick Culbert was the author, but I had a rather large hand in it.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 17, 2015 - 05:30pm PT
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Yes, still useful, and an archive of lots of early ascents that never got written up.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2015 - 07:59pm PT
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I quite enjoyed looking at that book when Glenn brought me the copy Perry bought in my auction. Lots of amazing climbs and excellent production value.
I spent the afternoon at Burgers. I was lucky enough to hook up with Kyle and Nina. The smoke wafted our way occasionally but mostly the air was quite clean.
Kyle on Libya Sucks 5.9
I'm happy to report that my ankle seemed to be fine with jamming.
After we did the one next to it, Nookie Monster and it seemed pretty hard for 10a.
Hopefully they get this fire out soon..
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 17, 2015 - 10:12pm PT
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Kyle on Libya Sucks 5.9
Anything for a strong 5.5 climber??
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alannamal
climber
B.C.
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Apr 17, 2015 - 10:31pm PT
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Putting approach shoes to the test!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 17, 2015 - 10:57pm PT
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Glenn
Thanks for the pic of Jim Campbell's guide. Too cool.
Dick's blue 1965 guide and the brown 1969 updated version are a great example of marketing today. Both versions came with a set of maps. [I think they are the same, but I am too lazy to go check.] If a seller has the maps, then he/she makes a big deal of "complete with rare maps" etc. If they do not have the maps they say "no matter, they are all out of date anyhow!" Accentuate the positive, eliminate the negative.
Questions: In a recent issue of Gripped maggie there was an article on The Lynn Valley, an area which I was not aware of before. The area does not look very inspiring to me....... Has anyone climbed there? Opinions? The rock looks rather uninviting, as it appears to be totaaaally covered in moss, lichen etc. However the text claims that it is actually "green granite". Glenn, is there such a beast? What do people think of this area? It is quite close to Van.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2015 - 11:01pm PT
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Glenn I am sure we could find you something fun!
Alannamal Yeah he wanted to "break them in"....
Hamie- Lynn canyon looks fun. I know Nathan's climbed there and i'm pretty sure Andy has. Perhaps they can fill us in a bit.
Best thing about this solo, was it freed me up to shoot photos.. Lol
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