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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 17, 2015 - 08:56am PT
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Yes and Peak 8200 on the left. Culbert's guidbook shows a great looking buttress on the other side of 8200. dropping into McNaught Valley, over the ridge.
It's actually McNaught Peak these days as per Beckey; Harold Redekop & John Manuel climbed the buttress you mention in '83,
"Loose class 4-5 with poor belays", sure to see a lineup this summer!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 17, 2015 - 08:59am PT
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Here's a shot of Redoubt I took last week from Rideout
Not much snow on the glacier
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2015 - 09:01am PT
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 17, 2015 - 06:42am PT
That photo of the NE face of Mt Redoubt brings back some great memories. Climbed it with Dick Mitten and Corina Acheson in 1977 or so. First time I ever used crampons.
Amazing place.
More please! ;)
Sick pic Dru!!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 17, 2015 - 12:36pm PT
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Here's a pic of Jer Frimer recovering his dropped ice axe from an off-route snowpatch 50 m down the east face of Redoubt, just after you transition from the glacier to the upper couloir.
It's always better not to drop your axe while alpine climbing, and this was even before clip leashes, meaning less of an excuse. But I'm sure it's a mistake a lot of people make. If you do, it's good to have it stop within fetching distance instead of vanishing into a slot forevermore.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Mar 23, 2015 - 08:46pm PT
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I have to repost this from the Squamish forum, so people appreciate what a hard ass Gordie was, and still is, now still climbing 5.11 at Skaha in his late 60's/ early 70's?
"Chic Scott's book Pushing the Limits: The Story of Canadian Mountaineering.
In the Section The Squamish Hard Core p245 about the new group of climbers at the end of the '60s.
Although this was still the era of big aid routes, it was a free climb on the Apron by Smaill and Bennet in 1970 that went a long way toward establishing their reputations. The route was the Grim Reaper, Smaill described how "Exploding crystal tips and pie crust flakes on l-o-n-g shakey lead outs characterize this royal jelly of slab freaks."
For years this test piece went unrepeated. Hugh Burton wrote, "Several parties have attempted it, but no one has yet being able to put together the phenomenally thin unprotected moves on the third pitch. There seems to be some question as to how Gordie actually accomplished this section. The crux, however, is supposedly on the fourth pitch!"
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2015 - 09:52pm PT
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Has anyone been on the reaper?? Rumor was it has unfortunately been bolted over in places. Does anyone have a topo from the smail guide? Does it include bolt markings?
Anders offers us this:
Grim Reaper II, 5.10b
N. Bennett and G. Smaill, 1969.
Down and left of Snake's beginning is a steep forested area. From it's top, climb a pitch on flakes and slabs; a crack then leads up and right to an isolated tree above an overhang. Continue up the crack to it's end, drop down, and traverse left to a bush in a corner in the center of the face. The difficult section before the belay has precipitated several wild pendulums. A long difficult and poorly protected pitch follows, ascending directly up the slab above the bush belay to a ledge. The final lead climbs up from the right end of this ledge.
Equipment: a dozen nuts to 2" and a few pins.
A Climber's Guide to the Squamish Chief. Anders Ourum
Edit: nice post Jim. Tell us a story about Ed if you please.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Mar 24, 2015 - 07:41am PT
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The Grim Reaper is still out there but finding it again would be hard. The person who put bolts near it may be the best source since he talked to Neil and Gord before undertaking his project, in an attempt to not compromise the Reaper too much.
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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Look what I found today[photoid=405041]
So cool
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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Oh and I found this too
Even more cool
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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So funny that I found these books today
and posted these pics one post after some Grim reaper posts!
Sure wish I would have climbed it back when I was brave
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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You bet jim
I'll get on it soon
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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Copy that Glenn,
I'll keep it to myself, do you recall how many were in circulation?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Hi Kaiser, Jim, I think it is stated in my new Intro - 300 copies. Don't know how many survive today. I haven't seen one for sale for 15 years.
Glenn
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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This is the photo which Tim used for his sketch on the cover of Glenn's guide. It shows Tim leaving the Dance Platform, and heading for the Roman Chimneys, on the FA of the U Wall. Yos has the 'red' book, while we have the 'green' book. Rare indeed.
Remember that the G Wall and the U Wall both end at the top of the Roman Chimneys, not at the Dance Platform.
"If you bale at Dance,
Then you fail at Dance!"
:) :) H.
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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Wow! Only 300 copies, I feel super fortunate to have found this one.
It's in absolute mint condition, I'd say 9.5 out of 10.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Almost all of the copies I saw had a crease across the middle. We used to fold it in half, and stick it in our back pockets.
Glenn. That was a most unusual size for a guidebook, or any kind of a book. What was behind your decision to print it in this format?
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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Tami
I found it at a used book sale in squamish.
The reaper was on my hit list back in the day until I took a monster whipper on white lightning, I tried to link the 2 pitches like the guidebook said to do, the rope drag was horrendous and eventually pulled me off. It felt like I was running backwards for days.
The reaper was off the list after that.
Oh and I would love to hear the "elimination of bellygood" story first hand if possible.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Hamie, yes that was an unusual (bizare? stupid?) format for a guidebook. It was done because it was cheap: photo-reduction of the original typed on regular letter-size paper. The next guides (Smaill, Ourom) had a much more practical format.
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