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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2015 - 09:08pm PT
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Glenn- No sir! That would be Memorial Ledge.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 15, 2015 - 10:52pm PT
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Great photos everyone! Love to see the old and new material getting the psyche up for the season. Now to serious matters - Oaks:
There are indeed Garry oaks in Squamish, and they are native, if not common here. The easiest ones to find are likely in the Smoke Bluffs. There are a few around Penny Lane. The most prominent one being the tree 15 feet up that you likely slung before entering the depths of Satan's Slit, just right of Penny Lane itself. Theres one on the ledge right of the top of Kangaroo Corner, and I believe another one below the left end of Neat and Cool. The largest one I've seen around the bluffs is out near the end of the little promontory that sticks out into the blind channel near The Zip.
The easiest time to find them is early winter when all the other deciduous trees have dropped their leaves, but the Garry Oaks cling stubbornly to their full canopies of shrivelled brown leaves, often until springtime.
K
Now back to your regularly scheduled climbing. Heres one from Friday the 13th (!) of a visiting friend from Reno:
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 15, 2015 - 11:08pm PT
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Scrubber, thanks muchly for the data on the oaks. Confirms my ancient memories.
Glenn
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 16, 2015 - 09:32am PT
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Jim, nice pic of that OW
Looks like it is one of the cracks on this wall, yes?
I don't think it has been climbed to the top yet. The east face route is well to thje left - this is more the NE face, or the east face of the Ibex- Springbok-LesCornes col
Why did you guys bail? Wetness? I can see the overlap seeping in your pic
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 16, 2015 - 09:41am PT
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Speaking of Garry Oak,
http://www.mqup.ca/ancient-pathways--ancestral-knowledge-products-9780773543805.php
I recently got given Nancy Turner's two-volume ethnobotanical magnum opus and read it cover to cover (to cover to cover) in about a week. Great book. Very interesting. (I also love that the guy on the cover is rocking a mac jacket as he gathers)
There is incontrovertible evidence that the local First Nations practiced both cultivation and transplantation of usable plant species, such as bringing hazelnuts from their southern range around the Lower Mainland, to the Kitimat - Terrace corridor, where they now have a geographically isolated second range.
The Garry Oaks on Sumas Mountain and across the river from Yale are documented to have been part of this pre-contact transplantation program.
I wouldn't be surprised if the oaks around the Chief are the legacy of a similar transplantation program by the Squamish Nation. Squamish seems like it's a ways beyond the usual Garry Oak range of southern Van Isle and the Gulf Islands.
Some, or much, of the growth of trees in subalpine areas like Hollyburn Meadows is also due to our suppression of forest fires, rather than to changing climates. These areas were burned regularly pre-contact as part of a management program to maximize berry productivity.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Mar 16, 2015 - 09:53am PT
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to make it easy:
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 16, 2015 - 10:19am PT
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Yeah. Looks more like a squeeze than an OW though!
Note to self: lug tubes and #6 next time going up there?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 16, 2015 - 10:47am PT
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I recently got given Nancy Turner's two-volume ethnobotanical magnum opus and read it cover to cover (to cover to cover) in about a week. Great book. Very interesting. (I also love that the guy on the cover is rocking a mac jacket as he gathers)
Yes, this is her magnum opus. I'm just about finished the first volume. It's very interesting and sums up so much material. I agree that the Garry oaks at Squamish might well be transplanted. It doesn't seem that they are doing as well as the ones on Sumas Mountain.
There are also a few in Pacific Spirit Park (Vancouver) but those might be escapes from old gardens.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2015 - 01:06pm PT
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Damn! You guys needed gardening tools up there?? Sure does look clean!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 16, 2015 - 01:31pm PT
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Gardening tools? Maybe plant some oak trees in those wide cracks.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2015 - 03:26pm PT
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Yes Glenn.. We know your generation had no need for clean cracks.. :)
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 16, 2015 - 04:13pm PT
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Fixed proaks from little acorns grow?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2015 - 04:25pm PT
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Grow your own pro! Lol
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 16, 2015 - 04:52pm PT
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Grow your own pro! Lol
Hillarious!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 16, 2015 - 07:41pm PT
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Nice photo.
In the bottom photo, looks like the Devil's Tongue just right of centre, with the Devil's Toothpick between the Tongue and the deep notch.
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Mar 16, 2015 - 10:17pm PT
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Wandering through a bookstore today, I happened upon a mint copy of Gordie Smaill's 1975 Chief Guide, this thing is classic history! Lots of funny stuff in here, plus some classic info on great aid lines of the past.
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Mar 17, 2015 - 12:08am PT
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Picked up some other BC mountaineering anthology stuff, snagged a few other goodies there over the years. I really dig the coastal climbing history, especially from the 70s. I've always been interested in the early wall climbing scene around Squamish with the likes of Hatten, Burton, Weinstein, Piro, Sutton, Culbert etc. Hard to find info about some of the aid climbs from that era. I;m sure there are still some places on the wall that few have ever been. Picking up this guide was just part of the puzzle.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 17, 2015 - 05:48am PT
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I love this thread. You guys give me hours worth of google earthing to do!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 17, 2015 - 06:42am PT
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That photo of the NE face of Mt Redoubt brings back some great memories. Climbed it with Dick Mitten and Corina Acheson in 1977 or so. First time I ever used crampons.
Amazing place.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Mar 17, 2015 - 08:52am PT
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Haha
M. Northwest Passage
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